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#1 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2015 - 08:39 PM

Has anyone out there dismantled the transmission on one of these? I am having trouble with the pinion shaft. Are the pinion gears just keyed and pressed on the shaft?image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
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#2 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2015 - 04:32 AM

If there are no clips or set screws then it could be a tolerance fit. I am not familiar with them at all. Hopefully someone with experience with them can chime in.



#3 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2015 - 08:03 AM

I've never had one apart either. If you can see a key slot in the gear I'd say they are just tight on there. Can you get a puller on them?



#4 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2015 - 08:17 PM

Not enough room to get the jaws of a gear puller on it. I am going to try a splitter or a pair of tie rod forks. Both sides of the shafts and gears were smeared from rubbing on the inside of the drop axle casting. What little oil that was in the right housing was a niffty silver color, kind of like never seize. The pinions are worn to sharp points,but I think they may be a standard gear which I possibly can get from a local bearings and drives dealer. I just have to get them off.

#5 Clifford Bridgford OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2015 - 08:46 AM

The spur gears are keyed to the axle with woodruff keys and should just pull off. Some of the woodruff keys are a Shaw patented design so do not loose them.

 

Cliff

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#6 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2015 - 01:53 PM

Cliff, Welcome to the forum. Glad to see you here. Hope you drop by often.  :thumbs:



#7 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2015 - 07:07 PM

The spur gears are keyed to the axle with woodruff keys and should just pull off. Some of the woodruff keys are a Shaw patented design so do not loose them.
 
Cliff

Thanks cliff! That parts list will come in handy. You wouldn't have a break down on the handles, would you? I seen in the sales ads that there apears to be a lock on them to lock out the wheel dogs, but I don't have them on mine. There are holes in the handles for them. It would be nice to get them back on it if only I had a clear picture of what they look like.

#8 Clifford Bridgford OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 12:31 PM

The lockout handles are made from a piece of channel iron one inch wide by one half inch thick by seven and one quarter inches long.  A five sixteenth wide by one inch long slot is milled starting one quarter inch from the end.  A second slot nine sixteenth wide by one and three quarters long is milled starting one and seven eights inches from the same end as the first slot.  A three thirty seconds hole is drilled one half inch from the back of the second slot.  Another three thirty seconds hole is drilled one inch forward of this first hole through both sides of the channel just above the bottom.

 

The second piece required is a strap of one and one quarter wide steel four and one quarter inches long and three thirty seconds thick.  A nine sixteenth wide slot is milled three quarter inches deep from the end. A five sixteenth hole is drilled one and one quarter inches from the opposite end.

 

I am going to try to attach pictures from one of my tractors.  If they do not attach, get in touch and I will e-mail them.  I am no ace with computers.

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#9 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2015 - 09:05 PM

The lockout handles are made from a piece of channel iron one inch wide by one half inch thick by seven and one quarter inches long.  A five sixteenth wide by one inch long slot is milled starting one quarter inch from the end.  A second slot nine sixteenth wide by one and three quarters long is milled starting one and seven eights inches from the same end as the first slot.  A three thirty seconds hole is drilled one half inch from the back of the second slot.  Another three thirty seconds hole is drilled one inch forward of this first hole through both sides of the channel just above the bottom.
 
The second piece required is a strap of one and one quarter wide steel four and one quarter inches long and three thirty seconds thick.  A nine sixteenth wide slot is milled three quarter inches deep from the end. A five sixteenth hole is drilled one and one quarter inches from the opposite end.
 
I am going to try to attach pictures from one of my tractors.  If they do not attach, get in touch and I will e-mail them.  I am no ace with computers.

Cliff, you are awesome! That is exactly the info I needed. As always you are a fountain of shaw knowledge, I am glad you came to the site! I am still fighting with the pinion gears. I think the ends of the shaft have mushroomed out from rubbing on the castings. Not sure what my next move will be(I'm open to suggestions) .

#10 Clifford Bridgford OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2015 - 01:19 PM

I would grind the burrs off the shaft with a die grinder, and then pull the right side gear off with a small bearing splitter (Snap-on or OTC 950).  The shaft diameter where the gear is pressed on should be three quarters of an inch.  The shaft can then be driven out from right to left through the frame and transmission case.  Use a one pound hammer and a hardwood dowel for a drift.  Do not try prying the gear off with a pry bar or wedge as you will apply force against the aluminum transmission case and may damage it.

 

Cliff



#11 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2015 - 08:31 PM

I would grind the burrs off the shaft with a die grinder, and then pull the right side gear off with a small bearing splitter (Snap-on or OTC 950).  The shaft diameter where the gear is pressed on should be three quarters of an inch.  The shaft can then be driven out from right to left through the frame and transmission case.  Use a one pound hammer and a hardwood dowel for a drift.  Do not try prying the gear off with a pry bar or wedge as you will apply force against the aluminum transmission case and may damage it.
 
Cliff

I figured I would have to start from the right pinion. That is where I have been focusing my energies on. The shaft is about a sixteenth into the pinion so removing the burr won't be so easy. I will need to get a pointed burr for my die grinder and try to carefully go around the shaft.image.jpg

#12 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2015 - 09:31 AM

Have you moved it at all? Can you support the shaft from the other side and get the gear to go back on? You put the puller on the splitter and it still won't give? If you are going to replace it anyway, why not just cut it off? Maybe use a nut splitter and split the gear.



#13 Clifford Bridgford OFFLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2015 - 10:42 PM

That should pull right off.  I thought the shaft was mushroomed over the gear from your description, but with the shaft already below the gear, burring is not an issue.  Make sure the slot in the splitter is in line with the keyway.  Use a hex nut between the shaft and puller screw so you do not expand the shaft. Wear a face shield and pull.

 

Cliff



#14 Tbrooks OFFLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2015 - 08:52 PM

I made some progress today. I tried driving the gear further onto the shaft and it moved and a burr came off of the gear. I put the bearing splitter back on and still could not get it to budge. I went to the left side and drive the bearing into the transmision so that about half the bearing was out of the hub. Doing that gave me more room on the right side, now I have enough room to get a gear puller on it. I used my smallest gear puller(big mistake) and managed to bend its screw in a nice "S" shape and still the gear did not move out. Going up to dad's tomarrow to raid his tool box for a heavier duty gear pullers. I do not want to destroy the gear yet until I can find replacements. It seams that 9 tooth 6 pitch gear is not so common. I may have to have some custom made. So having good samples to work from would be handy.




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