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G12 PTO Engagement Questions


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#1 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2015 - 03:11 PM

The engagement block on the PTO rod is froze to the rod, never to be free again.  This is the block that the spring is attached to to apply spring pressure to the block or rod?  Is the spring is to apply tension clockwise on the block, viewing from the rear, or counter clockwise?

 

Is the pin on that block to be under the pin on the lever block or over the pin on the lever block?

 

Sorry but don't have capabilities to point out things in a photo.  Doing good just to get a decent photo posted.  Will have to come up with another spring method to operate the PTO once I know which way it is to be applied.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

G12 PTO.JPG      G12 PTO-1.JPG


Edited by chieffan, May 20, 2015 - 04:39 PM.


#2 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2015 - 08:04 PM

Here is your picture with text and arrows to illustrate how I think it engages the pulley against the belt - someone may come along and correct me as I do not have a G12 but the spring and block look similar to the PTO on a 1050. Not sure if there is another spring somewhere to retract the shaft counter clockwise when the PTO lever is disengaged or if there is something missing between the PTO lever and the pivot block? I believe the block on the shaft should turn freely on the shaft so the spring can apply constant tension - hope this helps.

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#3 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2015 - 08:31 PM

I think you are missing item number 27 in the parts break down - it is a nylon pivot block that connects the pin on the block to the pin on the lever which would make the PTO disengage as you moved the lever back - see attached pdf.

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#4 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2015 - 08:28 AM

Thanks much to both you guys.  Now that I know how it is supposed to work and that I am missing a part I know where I am at  - - behind the eight ball !  Finding that missing part is going to be tough, but if I can't get that block free from the shaft I guess I don't need the part.  Looks like I may have a good tractor but no PTO drive, huh?

 

Thanks again for you input and have a good day.



#5 ss74nova OFFLINE  

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Posted May 22, 2015 - 09:40 AM

Your not behind the eight ball !  Here's a link to a site with new ones. I'll try to get a pic of my G14 to show how it goes in. Hope this helps. The block is on page 4 of the link.

 

http://www.tubeframe...train---chassis


Edited by ss74nova, May 22, 2015 - 10:10 AM.

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#6 ss74nova OFFLINE  

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Posted May 22, 2015 - 10:08 AM

Here's pics of how it goes. I just have to free mine up because the shaft is rusted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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#7 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 22, 2015 - 07:09 PM

Thanks much. At least I know the block is available. I found a good used shaft complete on eBay for $25 is a lot less than what it will cost to get this on free. I may go that route and replace the whole thing.

#8 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted May 22, 2015 - 07:39 PM

You could also make a block out of JB weld - make a rectangular form out of some cardboard with masking tape - let harden and drill the two holes in it- just a suggestion. Hope you get it working.
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#9 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2015 - 06:10 AM

You could also make a block out of JB weld - make a rectangular form out of some cardboard with masking tape - let harden and drill the two holes in it- just a suggestion. Hope you get it working.

I was thinking of using one of the hood guide block, the nylon wedge shaped piece that keeps the hood from rattling.  Cut it to shape and drill the two holes ina drill press and vise.  BUT _ the block won't do me any good until I get the rod assembly free.  It is still froze solid and been soaking heck out of it for 2 weeks now.  Going to let it go for now and get parts line up.  Then later this summer my get into it again.  Thanks for all the help.


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#10 ss74nova OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2015 - 06:58 AM

Mine is frozen too. I have been hitting the idler pulley bracket (closest to the engine) with a punch & it moves all the way in. Then I pry it back with a bar or hit the bracket with a long punch to get it back. Be careful not to hit the idler pulley. I have been spraying & letting it soak too. It moves back & forth now but not on it's own, only with the punch & bar. I'll keep working it back & forth & see if it loosens up some more. I may have to pull the covers off to get to it with the torches, but that is my last resort. Looks like yours is pretty accessable.


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#11 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2015 - 04:54 PM

The idler for the drive is free.  It is the block with the spring that is froze solid.  I had mine cherry red and had a pipe wrench on the block tang and a crescent wrench on the bracket and it would only twist the shaft a little.  I also tried to drill a hole in the block hoping it was smaller in the center.  That was not the case,  One diameter hole clear through whcih makes it a lot worse to get free.   I ended up buying a replacement rod complete.  Will clean it up good and grease heck out of it before anything goes back together.  Looks like I will have to lift the motor to get the old one out and new on back in.  I plan to cut the rod off next to steering column block.  That will drop the frozen part off and only have to pull the rod out about 2" and the whole thing will be free.  If I do happen to get things freed up on the old one I can taper grind the rod and weld it back together and work it back down and be good as new, for no more pressure than what is one it.  Good luck with yours.  What tractor is your on?  This is on a G12,  kind of a different set up.

 

Mine is frozen too. I have been hitting the idler pulley bracket (closest to the engine) with a punch & it moves all the way in. Then I pry it back with a bar or hit the bracket with a long punch to get it back. Be careful not to hit the idler pulley. I have been spraying & letting it soak too. It moves back & forth now but not on it's own, only with the punch & bar. I'll keep working it back & forth & see if it loosens up some more. I may have to pull the covers off to get to it with the torches, but that is my last resort. Looks like yours is pretty accessable.


Edited by chieffan, May 24, 2015 - 04:58 PM.

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#12 ss74nova OFFLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2015 - 10:07 PM

Wow I guess yours is frozen really good if you had it cherry red. It's good you got a replacement rod. Mine is a 1973 1453 G14. I believe it has the same pto as the G12.


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#13 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2015 - 07:42 AM

According to the manual they do have the same PTO set up.  Those people that let their equipment set outside year around sure make it tough for us 40+ years later don't they?  I been thinking that when my replacement gets here, about a grease zerk installation.  I know it will be greased heavly before it is installed.  My stuff is always inside, except when I get caught and then we both head for cover so once I get it free it will stay free as long as I own it.  Will keep you updated on how my change over goes.  good luck with yours.  If I happen to run across another set up will sure let you know.


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#14 ss74nova OFFLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2015 - 09:23 AM

A grease zerk sounds like a great idea. My G14 sat outside for 10 years without being run by the previous owner. I got it to fire up & was driving it around the yard. I thought I was going to have to part it out, because everything was so rusted, but it ran great after sitting 10 years, so I'll keep it & fix it.






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