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Bolens 600 Rear Axle Seal Replacement

drive hub removal

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#1 560Dennis OFFLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2015 - 08:54 AM

I would like some advice on how best to remove drive hub 1713459 (ref. 61 ) from a Bolens 600 Husky .
image.jpg image.jpg

I have tried heavy hammer with brass rod , and mapp gas torch , pb blaster , with little success , I don't want to hit it very hard to avoild breaking flange of free floating drive pin with a miss hit ,could fracture it.

New guy
Best regards and thank for any advice.
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#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2015 - 10:57 AM

Welcome to GTT. Look in our Manuals Section for the manual for working on that trans axle. You can download three manuals for free per day. I would nor use a hammer on that as you could cause damage inside. A puller is usually the best answer. Check the parts manual for any hidden retainers. Good Luck, Rick

 

 

Try this Manual   http://gardentractor...anual-552875-1/


Edited by boyscout862, May 20, 2015 - 11:00 AM.


#3 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2015 - 12:48 PM

If you can come up with a heavy clamp to put behind the free wheel tangs to hook a puller on would work good.  Might be difficult to get it tight enough to hold though.  Penetrate is going to take a long time as it has a long way to go to get inside where it is seized.  If it were mine, I would take it to a good machine shop and let them have at it.  They have the tools and experience to work on those kind of things.

 

Another option would be drill a hole in the side about midway, down to the axle and keep it full of penetrate.  This would get it working both ways but it would still take a lot of time.  The trick with using heat is to get the hub hot fast the full length on one side only.  Need to get it swelled from the heat before the axle gets hot and swells also.


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#4 Rainier OFFLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2015 - 06:10 PM

I agree map gas is not hot enough. It needs to heated quickly!

#5 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2015 - 07:25 PM

I used a bearing splitter, two long pieces of threaded rod hooked to it and to a harmonic balancer puller to remove the hub on my 1050 (sorry I did not take a picture with the puller hooked up). My experience has been that you will need a constant pull while heating the hub in order to get the hub to move. Put a 1/2" nut against the end of the axle shaft so the puller screw does not mark up the end of the axle shaft (1/2" nuts can be replaced a lot easier than cleaning up damaged threads on the axle). Tighten the screw as tight as you can and start applying heat along the whole length of the hub - KEEP A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY - DON'T WANT A GREASE FIRE - SAFETY FIRST (I used map gas but it took about 30 - 40 minutes to get it hot enough). Try tightening the puller screw after about 10 minutes and at 5 minute intervals after - CAUTION IT WILL GET HOT - WEAR GLOVES - it should move eventually. The one on my 1050 was married to the shaft and stubborn all the way - you could try tapping it very lightly along the side with an air hammer and blunt driver - use an air regulator and set the air pressure very low so it does not hit the cast hard and be gentle as the cast will mark as you can see in the picture of my hub - could also break if hit it too hard. Could also try dousing it with cold water after you get it really hot - the shrinking could help break it loose from the rust (may have to do this a few times). On the 1050 there is a part in the middle that does not contact the axle so I concentrated the heat on the ends but I am not sure on the 600 - you could also try working a wire through the roll pin that keeps the free wheeling pin in place (or pull the roll pin out) and spraying some penetrating oil in there. These are only suggestions and THINK SAFTEY - WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AND FLAME RESITANT CLOTHING - sorry to sound like I am preaching about safety but I am speaking from experience - I once was heating a u joint cap on a car driveshaft to melt the Loctite that held it in - grease boiled and popped the cap out which in turn nailed me square on the chest - left a nice HOT mark! Hope this helps and good luck.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Bearing Splitter.jpg
  • Axle Shaft 2.jpg
  • Inner Hub.jpg


#6 560Dennis OFFLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2015 - 08:10 PM

I just tried to heat with a Acetelyne / oxy Torch no luck . 29 showed me I need more than just heat . I was going to get a 2 inch two piece shaft collar and bore out to 2.05 .06 and clamp, pull with a puller . But I do have a bearing puller . Going to try the 29 way of doing it cause it worked and it ' s faster than making a special two piece shaft collar. thanks let you guys know .

#7 560Dennis OFFLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2015 - 08:19 PM

I used a bearing splitter, two long pieces of threaded rod hooked to it and to a harmonic balancer puller to remove the hub on my 1050 (sorry I did not take a picture with the puller hooked up). My experience has been that you will need a constant pull while heating the hub in order to get the hub to move. Put a 1/2" nut against the end of the axle shaft so the puller screw does not mark up the end of the axle shaft (1/2" nuts can be replaced a lot easier than cleaning up damaged threads on the axle). Tighten the screw as tight as you can and start applying heat along the whole length of the hub - KEEP A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY - DON'T WANT A GREASE FIRE - SAFETY FIRST (I used map gas but it took about 30 - 40 minutes to get it hot enough). Try tightening the puller screw after about 10 minutes and at 5 minute intervals after - CAUTION IT WILL GET HOT - WEAR GLOVES - it should move eventually. The one on my 1050 was married to the shaft and stubborn all the way - you could try tapping it very lightly along the side with an air hammer and blunt driver - use an air regulator and set the air pressure very low so it does not hit the cast hard and be gentle as the cast will mark as you can see in the picture of my hub - could also break if hit it too hard. Could also try dousing it with cold water after you get it really hot - the shrinking could help break it loose from the rust (may have to do this a few times). On the 1050 there is a part in the middle that does not contact the axle so I concentrated the heat on the ends but I am not sure on the 600 - you could also try working a wire through the roll pin that keeps the free wheeling pin in place (or pull the roll pin out) and spraying some penetrating oil in there. These are only suggestions and THINK SAFTEY - WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AND FLAME RESITANT CLOTHING - sorry to sound like I am preaching about safety but I am speaking from experience - I once was heating a u joint cap on a car driveshaft to melt the Loctite that held it in - grease boiled and popped the cap out which in turn nailed me square on the chest - left a nice HOT mark! Hope this helps and good luck.


very informative thanks

#8 560Dennis OFFLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2015 - 12:33 PM

I borrowed a two piece lathe dog and went to the two jaw puller. It started moving immediatelt. with no effoft on the wrench. Oh , I did take the roll pin retainer out an sprayed pb blaster into the hole and let it soak awhile . I did not have to use heat using this set up. but maybe previous heating and Pb blaster was enough
Here are my crude photos of set up. It worked image.jpg image.jpg

Thank you and hope this helps someone else .
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#9 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2015 - 01:25 PM

Glad to hear it worked out :thumbs:



#10 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2015 - 06:35 PM

Glad to hear it moved easily and you got it off - more than one way to take something apart and that is what is great about forums like this - you can learn so much for free just by reading what others have accomplished with the tools they had to work with. I would suggest you give the shaft a good cleaning with a wire brush, fine emery cloth or a scotch brite pad to remove any rust and do the same with the inside of the hub. Once you get it cleaned up try the hub on the shaft and make sure it slides on all the way by hand with the key in the axle - and then put some grease, oil or never seize on the shaft and inside the hub so it does not get stuck again. I believe you adjust the rear end the same way as on the 1050's in which case you only turn the axle nuts by hand and if the hub does not move freely you will not be able to adjust the pinion gears correctly. Here is a link to that information - http://gardentractor...lay-adjustment/

#11 560Dennis OFFLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2015 - 07:33 PM

new seal , installed
new key , install ruin the old one , getting it out
cleaned shaft with fine emory an brake cleaner
anti seize shaft
installed hub without any trouble , light tap into place
filled case with fresh 80/90 oil
i did use channel locks to seat castle nut and backed it off one notch . do not trust finger thight
drove it around , felt good , shifts so smooth




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