Bolens 600 Rear Axle Seal Replacementdrive hub removal
Posted May 20, 2015 - 08:54 AM
I have tried heavy hammer with brass rod , and mapp gas torch , pb blaster , with little success , I don't want to hit it very hard to avoild breaking flange of free floating drive pin with a miss hit ,could fracture it.
Best regards and thank for any advice.
- laurarg3 and StevenPa have said thanks
Posted May 20, 2015 - 10:57 AM
Welcome to GTT. Look in our Manuals Section for the manual for working on that trans axle. You can download three manuals for free per day. I would nor use a hammer on that as you could cause damage inside. A puller is usually the best answer. Check the parts manual for any hidden retainers. Good Luck, Rick
Try this Manual http://gardentractor...anual-552875-1/
Edited by boyscout862, May 20, 2015 - 11:00 AM.
Posted May 20, 2015 - 12:48 PM
If you can come up with a heavy clamp to put behind the free wheel tangs to hook a puller on would work good. Might be difficult to get it tight enough to hold though. Penetrate is going to take a long time as it has a long way to go to get inside where it is seized. If it were mine, I would take it to a good machine shop and let them have at it. They have the tools and experience to work on those kind of things.
Another option would be drill a hole in the side about midway, down to the axle and keep it full of penetrate. This would get it working both ways but it would still take a lot of time. The trick with using heat is to get the hub hot fast the full length on one side only. Need to get it swelled from the heat before the axle gets hot and swells also.
- Texas Deere and Horse said thank you
Posted May 20, 2015 - 06:10 PM
Posted May 20, 2015 - 07:25 PM
Posted May 20, 2015 - 08:10 PM
Posted May 20, 2015 - 08:19 PM
I used a bearing splitter, two long pieces of threaded rod hooked to it and to a harmonic balancer puller to remove the hub on my 1050 (sorry I did not take a picture with the puller hooked up). My experience has been that you will need a constant pull while heating the hub in order to get the hub to move. Put a 1/2" nut against the end of the axle shaft so the puller screw does not mark up the end of the axle shaft (1/2" nuts can be replaced a lot easier than cleaning up damaged threads on the axle). Tighten the screw as tight as you can and start applying heat along the whole length of the hub - KEEP A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY - DON'T WANT A GREASE FIRE - SAFETY FIRST (I used map gas but it took about 30 - 40 minutes to get it hot enough). Try tightening the puller screw after about 10 minutes and at 5 minute intervals after - CAUTION IT WILL GET HOT - WEAR GLOVES - it should move eventually. The one on my 1050 was married to the shaft and stubborn all the way - you could try tapping it very lightly along the side with an air hammer and blunt driver - use an air regulator and set the air pressure very low so it does not hit the cast hard and be gentle as the cast will mark as you can see in the picture of my hub - could also break if hit it too hard. Could also try dousing it with cold water after you get it really hot - the shrinking could help break it loose from the rust (may have to do this a few times). On the 1050 there is a part in the middle that does not contact the axle so I concentrated the heat on the ends but I am not sure on the 600 - you could also try working a wire through the roll pin that keeps the free wheeling pin in place (or pull the roll pin out) and spraying some penetrating oil in there. These are only suggestions and THINK SAFTEY - WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AND FLAME RESITANT CLOTHING - sorry to sound like I am preaching about safety but I am speaking from experience - I once was heating a u joint cap on a car driveshaft to melt the Loctite that held it in - grease boiled and popped the cap out which in turn nailed me square on the chest - left a nice HOT mark! Hope this helps and good luck.
very informative thanks
Posted May 21, 2015 - 12:33 PM
Here are my crude photos of set up. It worked
Thank you and hope this helps someone else .
- Bolens 1000 and 29 Chev have said thanks
Posted May 21, 2015 - 01:25 PM
Glad to hear it worked out
Posted May 21, 2015 - 06:35 PM
Posted May 21, 2015 - 07:33 PM
new key , install ruin the old one , getting it out
cleaned shaft with fine emory an brake cleaner
anti seize shaft
installed hub without any trouble , light tap into place
filled case with fresh 80/90 oil
i did use channel locks to seat castle nut and backed it off one notch . do not trust finger thight
drove it around , felt good , shifts so smooth