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1920 Beeman


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#46 jtrojek OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2015 - 08:05 AM

Crank seems fine. There is a hairline crack running along the width of the bearing (see picture). I'd guess it's this crack that made it possible for the chunk off the side to fall out, by the looks of it. You can also see the side chunk that came off creeks over and is at the edge of where the bearing meets the crankshaft. Sooooo, given what's going on here, can I run it the way it is or should I not run it until I can change that bearing? I don't want to damage anything, but maybe these things are insignificant? Will it likely continue to disintegrate and then cause major damage? I'm thinking so, but I have no idea what's okay and what's not in an engine like this. Maybe it doesn't matter much? Maybe I can run it a little yet this year at the shows and what not, but address it this winter? Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I have no idea what's normal and within tolerances for these kinds of engines. Also, there has to be another chunk of lead somewhere in the crankcase, but I have not idea where.  I'll try draining the oil to see if it's in the pan, but if it's not, not sure how I find it without taking it all apart.  I don't like the idea of that in there somewhere, but I guess that likely it'll just sit in a low spot somewhere and may not disturb anything.  I hope.  Thanks.

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Edited by jtrojek, August 12, 2015 - 08:14 AM.

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#47 Mike Unwin OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2015 - 08:31 AM

I think looking at the oil grooves {X pattern} that this is a re poured bearing if it was factory original I would expect the the lines to be near perfect . From what I see I would be comfortable using the bearing again. I know you want to clean the sump perfect but most old engines are a little rough in the edge area.

What rpm,s does this engine run at ? Go over to the Stak site spend some time and read up on Babbitt bearings , or get your local machinist to do another bearing like the other engine.

The old timers talked of using hardwood and leather belt to keep a engine running,Babbitt is a somewhat forgiving material.Too bad I am so far away I would like to see this engine , could have brought the bearing to Cookstown and showed it around they were some top notch engine men there. Good luck Mike


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#48 jtrojek OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2015 - 07:40 AM

Thanks for the advice, Mike.  I think I'll put it back together again and fire it up.  I want to try my hand at making a video of it running to post on YouTube, but we'll see about that.  

 

The literature says it runs at 230 to 1500 rpms.  I have no plans to rev it up near the top end as I like to hear them run nice and slow, puttering away, generally the slower the better as long as it's enough to effectively perform the task that it's doing.  I love the sound of an engine just merrily running slowly along.  When I parked it, I had the idle screw backed all the way out and it was running super slow.  The kill switch on the mag doesn't seem to work so I thought I'd just idle it all the way down so it would quit; it idled all the way down but wouldn't quit.  

 

I will do some poking around to learn more about babbitt bearings.  I've never had to play with them before so I have much to learn.

 

I'll have to figure out a way for you to see the engine.  Are you going to the Milton show, Mike?  I'm thinking of taking some things there.


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#49 Mike Unwin OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2015 - 07:55 AM

Yes I am going to Milton, hope to see you there. Cheers Mike



#50 jtrojek OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2015 - 04:54 PM

Finally got a video of it running, albeit a poor video (it was a huge file on my phone and was nice and clear, but shrunk a lot when I uploaded it, likely why it went all grainy in the process).  The tractor is not perfect and still needs some work, but still, it's running  I need to work out a few more small issues.  I put water in it for the first time today as well.  It's leaking a little bit right up where the fitting comes out from the rad to attach from the hose.  It's dripping a little, so I'll have to fix that.  I don't see any other leaks.  I'm sure the carb is sucking in some air at the throttle shaft (you can see it jiggling around in the video), but it seems to run okay.  I still have yet to install the leather fan belt that I have, but I'll get there.  I've never heard another one running before so I have no idea how they should sound and consequently don't really know if it's running right or not.  If something sounds wrong, please tell me.  Also, is it fine to let it sit there and run at a lower rpm like that, even though I have water in there but no fan running yet?  I just don't want to burn something out.  

 

YouTube Link:

 

 

If that doesn't work, try watching it through my website (I've never posted a video before):

 

http://www.oldironga...s.com/beeman-1/


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#51 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2015 - 11:06 AM

Sounds like its running fairly fast at first. After the one minute mark it is starting to sound better. It would be nice to get it to fire consistent every time but a Beeman just doesn't seem to want to run like a utilitor even though they are the same basic thing. It will run for a long time without the fan. They really don't move all that much air anyway.


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#52 jtrojek OFFLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2015 - 01:16 PM

Sounds like its running fairly fast at first. After the one minute mark it is starting to sound better. It would be nice to get it to fire consistent every time but a Beeman just doesn't seem to want to run like a utilitor even though they are the same basic thing. It will run for a long time without the fan. They really don't move all that much air anyway.

Yes, I slowed it down toward the end. It seemed to be running really nice at that faster speed so I thought I'd start with that speed so it didn't give me grief while filming.  Then I slowed it down some, then some more yet.  It will go a fair bit slower yet than that too.  I should have idled it right down and filmed that too.  Not sure why I didn't.

 

So it's not just my ear and it does indeed seem to fire inconsistently?  It almost sounds a bit like a hit and miss to me, although not quite, obviously.  It seemed to be running fairly smooth so I figured the way it fired was relatively normal.  Is that so?  I kind of like the sound.  One of these days I'll find a Utilitor as well ....


Edited by jtrojek, August 14, 2015 - 01:17 PM.


#53 B10Dave OFFLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2015 - 09:27 PM

Jamie; that engine sounds awesome. There are no sounds to indicate any problems. At low rpm's and no load it probably would never overheat without the fan belt. Are you going to Milton for the weekend or taking stuff down Thursday and picking it up Monday? I can give you a contact there where your tractors can be left safely beside his display. Talk to you sometime next week...Dave


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#54 jtrojek OFFLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2015 - 08:36 AM

Thanks for the note, Dave.  I'm going at some point, but not sure if I'll bring any stuff, and if I do, not sure when I'll drop off and pick up as of yet.  



#55 jtrojek OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2015 - 06:54 AM

Since this is my first garden tractor like this, how do you guys store them for the winter in terms of the coolant system?  Should I just crack open the petcock on the bottom of the rad, drain the water (it's filled with water, not coolant), and that's it?  I know I don't want water in it over the winter when things freeze (which may be relatively soon - supposed to go down to 4C later this week).  Water jackets full of frozen water lead to bad things, no different than a vehicle, I would imagine.  Is just draining the water from the petcock on the bottom of the rad enough, or should I do something more?  Never had to winterize one of these before so I want to make sure to do it right so I don't have any crazy surprises come spring (or fewer crazy surprises, anyway).



#56 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2015 - 05:25 PM

I think I would drain what water you can and put some antifreeze back in there. Let it run for a while and it should help for the winter.


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#57 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2015 - 08:50 AM

In the perfect world, just draining it should be good. The only thing would be if there is a blockage somewhere that would hold the water. A plugged radiator tube would be a good example. Another place that is common to see a crack is around the carb mount and intake runner. Not sure if they tend to hold water there or its just where they break. You could drain and refill with RV antifreeze. It would be cheaper and non toxic to pets.


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#58 Mike Unwin OFFLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2015 - 08:08 AM

When I had a cottage I would drain the system and take a air pig with me and put air pressure into the back pipe to help remove any water that was laying in a low spot. Good talking to you at Milton darn died from the heat ! Cheers Mike



#59 Nato77 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2016 - 08:38 PM

Could you take a pic of the center of the flat belt pulley on your tractor? Maybe a couple measurements too. I want to put one on one of mine and I'm thinking more than likely I'll have to rework or build one. An original might be impossible to find.
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