13 replies to this topic

[sodisr]

I just put 2 new axe handles  on.. Their about 30"  long...  I put them on,, tapped the back side til it bottomed out,,put the wedges in til flush..

 

   NOW,,,---   Should I cut the leftover  sticking out the top,  ( approx.  1/2" to 3/4" )  , or leave it alone,, and would soaking it in water or oil swell the wood and wedge to keep them tight../???????????????

 

                                                 Thanks                           sodi.

[boyscout862]

I make sure they set right, put in the length wise wood wedge, cut it off, add the cross wise steel wedge and call that it. I don't like the soaking because it softens the wood. If it is a good handle with the grain running front to back, it shouldn't come loose for a long time. If it does, I just tap the wedges in farther. Good Luck, Rick

Edited by boyscout862, May 17, 2015 - 07:36 AM.

[Jazz]

I would leave it alone. Its tight correct. I soak many of my old hammers in antifreeze (50/50 mix) as they get a bit loose. Cut the remaining wedge off as the axe head is only going to work its way down the handle a bit in the near future. 

I just replace handle on my splitting maul last week. Amazingly the handle last 7 years,,I suggest warranty,,,seller gave me some extra wedges free..

 

Check out this new design splitting axe,,connoisseurs of hand splitting wood will find it interesting.  Wife found it,told her maybe when the new axle handle sees its day...

 

http://www.geek.com/...d-time-1591725/

Edited by Jazz, May 15, 2015 - 12:32 PM.

[LilysDad]

Never soak in water. It swells the wood up and then when it dries, it's looser than before. Soak it in linseed oil, if anything.

[ol' stonebreaker]

I've seen the new splitting axe and splitting w/ a double bit is all in the technique. Bring the axe down w/ with it 10*-15* off plumb. The inertia will make it want to lay down flat and split the wood much easier.
Mike

[T Guiles]

We use to heat the head up by putting it in a fire then putting the new handle in it and beat a wedge in while still hot, then let it cool down.

[JBRamsey]

My daddy taught me how to do it just like boyscout described. Sometimes I shaved the sides to get the head on further. I like the slot to be closed tight before I install the wedges. I've never had one come loose. I also try and get unvarnished handles. And I've only had to replace them when I got sloppy and hit the handle on the stick of wood not the head.

[boyscout862]

About the video: I like the tire idea to hold litte wood on the splitting stump. Short pieces of straight grained pine and birch will split easy with anything, especially when frozen. True Value had a mistake in their flier 25 years ago, I got a nice True Temper splitting maul with a fiberglas handle for the same price as an axe. I use it ocassionally but do most of my splitting with a Brave 20 ton H & V splitter. The verticle system is realy nice because I roll the logs to the splitter and then sit to do the splitting. No lifting required. Good Luck, Rick 

Edited by boyscout862, May 17, 2015 - 07:34 AM.

[Jazz]

Crap! I did not even notice the tire. I was too focused on the axe head!  So,,we all know what focus is a acronym for..I have seen people use a tire around a log when splitting with a regular maul.  Real slick if you are splitting wood that has no knots.  My neighbour agreed that I could split wood faster with axe  than his splitter but he says he uses the 20 ton splitter so his wife can keep up with piling the wood.

Edited by Jazz, May 16, 2015 - 09:37 PM.

[holdenboy1960]

if you can buy Hickory axe handles with a long straight grain , they are the best of all to use & last the best

 

Do NOT buy any handle with short & or cross grain in them

 

as they will split to easy if used wrong or struck just behind the head when hitting some thing or chopping  with them 

Edited by holdenboy1960, June 09, 2015 - 08:46 AM.

[holdenboy1960]

We use to heat the head up by putting it in a fire then putting the new handle in it and beat a wedge in while still hot, then let it cool down.

in principal the same way the buggy & wagon wheels bands were put on the wooden spoke wheel's

 

Shane 

Edited by holdenboy1960, June 09, 2015 - 08:50 AM.

[tater195]

I have seen the tire trick before, just have not tried it. I leave my smoker wood "whole" and dont split it until I am ready to use it, and I split it at the smoker. That keeps the wood from drying out as fast , I dont have to carry a bunch of loose sticks and I always have the right size stick when I need it.

 

As for the new fangeled splitter.. not sure I like the rotation. That looks like it would give you tendinitis if you tried to hold it tight. I think it would feel un natural to release your grip when it rotates... kinda like a tiller that is trying to get away from you. All you have to do is let go of the handle, but most people fight it and try harder to hold it back 

[holdenboy1960]

have never used a block spliter before but saw some used by other people 

 

I want to make a chain saw mill for rough cutting silky oak's

 

im Aussie i aint herd ofva tyre wrap for splitin befer 

 

 splitting fence posts we just used steel & hard wood wedges & sledge Hammer ,& crow bar 

 

but for fire wood we just used an axe only 

 

the axes we had were Kelly or Plumb brand axe heads & only hickory handles, dad bought  none other but those 

[FixItCharlie]

I watch that video & the use of the tire is interesting may have to try that some time. The one thing I caught is listening to the wood my bet is that is -0 F at those temperatures wood is a lot easier to split & sounds like that when split. I am not that familiar with type of tree in Europe but some of that looked to me as being birch. Birch being a soft wood & being real cold I have split with a hand axe. It is an interesting design but to impress me he would have to be splitting that wood with it being 40 degrees warmer, maybe out with a tee shirt on.

 

Charlie