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Fired Up My Bolens HT23 Today


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#16 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2015 - 07:37 PM

Yes ,most likely the bearing blocks that bolt to the frame on both sides and the rock shaft sits in and rotates as the lift cylinder operates,the one closest to the cylinder (left side sitting on tractor) let go either thru bolt shear or binding due to lack of lubrication or metal fatigue and let the lift cylinder push the rock shaft up into the fender pan and one set of the lifting arms on the shaft left their signature.

Thanks for the input - had a good look at the bolts in the left bearing block and the front one is an ordinary cap screw instead of a washer head the same as the other three so I would agree it left home in search of adventure not realizing the romance that it would create between the ears and the floor pan with its departure. I got the two grooves flattened out with a couple of hammers and cleaned them up good with a wire brush, did a few passes with the mig welder and ground the welds down. Then I finished cleaning up the rusty areas and gave it a quick coat of paint (looks like the white I chose is brighter than what Bolens used originally - got Hunter Green for the seat hinge bolt bracket and it appears to be fairly close to the green). It will need a light coat of body filler to smooth the ripples out but this is just a cleanup to keep the rusted areas from getting any worse - not sure when I will get time to do a complete strip down and rebuild - maybe this winter.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Grooves Flattened.jpg
  • 2 Grooves Flattend Top Side.jpg
  • 3 Welded And Ground Top View.jpg
  • 4 Weld Ground Bottom View.jpg
  • 5 Seat Pan Painted.jpg
  • 6 Seat Pan Painted.jpg
  • 7 Seat Pan Painted.jpg
  • 8 Seat Pan Painted.jpg
  • 9 Seat Pan Painted.jpg
  • 10 Seat Hinge Bolt Bracket Painted WIth Hunter Green.jpg

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#17 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2015 - 11:33 AM

Hunter green is too bright, believe it or not. Add a little bit of black if you are mixing paint to spray.
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#18 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2015 - 04:21 PM

Hunter green is too bright, believe it or not. Add a little bit of black if you are mixing paint to spray.


Thanks for the heads up - using rattle cans so the Hunter Green will have to do for now - when I get time to tear into it I will try and get a good paint match on the green and white - would like to do it in a urethane if finances allow. Double checked the rock shaft bearing bolts and found the left front one loose so I installed vibration nuts on them and set the seat pan on, fired it up and moved the hydraulic cylinder up and down and did not see any evidence of it hitting the floor pan so I bolted the floor pan and ROPS back on. Had some black floor runner left over from another project so I cut out two foot pads and glued them in place. Had two small pieces left over so I trimmed them up and glued them in the well where the seat spring contacts the seat pan - should keep the spring from scuffing the paint.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Right Foot Pad.jpg
  • 2 Left Foot Pad.jpg
  • 3 Side view.jpg
  • 4 Seat View.jpg
  • 5 Two Pieces Left Over.jpg
  • 6 Seat Down.jpg

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#19 Paulgo OFFLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2015 - 05:23 PM

Thanks for the heads up - using rattle cans so the Hunter Green will have to do for now - when I get time to tear into it I will try and get a good paint match on the green and white - would like to do it in a urethane if finances allow. Double checked the rock shaft bearing bolts and found the left front one loose so I installed vibration nuts on them and set the seat pan on, fired it up and moved the hydraulic cylinder up and down and did not see any evidence of it hitting the floor pan so I bolted the floor pan and ROPS back on. Had some black floor runner left over from another project so I cut out two foot pads and glued them in place. Had two small pieces left over so I trimmed them up and glued them in the well where the seat spring contacts the seat pan - should keep the spring from scuffing the paint.

Love the spring cushion idea!  Will have to do that on mine.  I need new footrest pads anyways.  I've seen that black ribbed rubber material in rolls somewhere before.  Hardware store?


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#20 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2015 - 06:35 PM

I've seen that black ribbed rubber material in rolls somewhere before. Hardware store?

I got mine at a hardware store back in about 1988 (how time flies when you are playing the game of life) - they had it on a roll about 36" wide and they sold it by the foot - checked today but was told all they have now is green ??? Checked out Canadian Tires website and they show a product that would probably do the job - http://www.canadiant...ml#.VVvGYulFC70

I believe that you should be able to get it at a hardware, flooring store or lumber yard - if not you can Google black ribbed floor runner and get some sources that way - given your location you might even do a cross border jaunt as the CTC store in Sault St Marie, Ontario shows 55 feet on hand at 5.99 / ft - just a suggestion if you cannot find it closer. Another place would be an automotive upholstery / glass shop as they used it for years on the running boards of older vehicles (such as 1929 Chevrolet cars).
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#21 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2015 - 06:47 PM

Check with Rick Show, one of our sponsors, for those pads.

 

http://gardentractor...s-now-in-stock/

 

We got them for the Forklift and the HDT1000 refurb from him.


Edited by OldBuzzard, May 19, 2015 - 07:08 PM.

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#22 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2015 - 05:57 PM

Found a Grote clearance lamp that looked closer to the original tail light than the one that was on the tractor so I bought one and put it on today. Then I started to work on the seat support as it had been welded in several spots - the metal had cracked / broken where the slots are - ground the welds down and plated the sides of the slots with 1/8"x 1" and 1/8" x 1-1/2" flat iron. Not sure if these gave a lot of problems or if some of the previous operators were like me - a little short for their weight - the tractor came with an extra support but it has been welded / repaired as well. Forgot to take pictures of it as I worked on it - will try and get some when I finish it. I think the seat had been replaced at one time as it says MTD on the cover and the two adjustment knobs are missing - may make a framework to bolt to the seat and have four bolts instead of two go through the slots for adjustment with nuts on the bottom to give everything more strength.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Without Lense On.jpg
  • 2 Part Number.jpg
  • 3 Light WIth Lense On.jpg
  • 4 WIth Lense On 2.jpg
  • 5 Light On.jpg

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#23 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2015 - 07:20 PM

Looking Good!

 

If you need OEM style seat knobs I still stock them for the sliding adjusting models.

 

https://bolenspartsa...frame-tractors/


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#24 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2015 - 07:36 AM

Looking Good!
 
If you need OEM style seat knobs I still stock them for the sliding adjusting models.
 
https://bolenspartsa...frame-tractors/


Thanks - will keep that in mind when I get it tore apart - perhaps this winter. For now I am just fixing a few things to keep them from deteriorating any worse and to make it safe to operate. I am not sure they would work with the seat that is on the tractor now. Judging by the slots in the seat mount the original holes in the seat were 3/8" and the holes in the seat I have are 5/16" and the only holes that would line up with the slots are at the front or back of the seat - the holes in the middle are spaced wider apart than the slots.

#25 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2015 - 12:08 PM

This works well for me, get some weld on nuts ( I go 3/8" thread size ) I get mine from Mcmaster - Carr , I think they come in a bag of 10 , inexpensive, IMO quicker ,cleaner than fabbing up an adapter bracket ( what I use to do). Lay it out , drill some clearance holes I use a bit stop, if not high speed so it doesn't grab an you have that "AH SHTT" moment . Soak the foam inside the drilled hole I haven't had any heat transfer issues but it's a better safe than sorry step, I also quick cool the welds as soon as completed, Haven't had any issues with it affecting the strength of the weld. Put short 3/8" shoulder bolts with a thicker nylon washer, then your adjustment knobs. I mimiced my Duratrac with this set up and I really like it.


Kevin

Attached Thumbnails

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Edited by WrenchinOnIt, May 24, 2015 - 12:10 PM.

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#26 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2015 - 06:36 PM

This works well for me, get some weld on nuts ( I go 3/8" thread size ) I get mine from Mcmaster - Carr , I think they come in a bag of 10 , inexpensive, IMO quicker ,cleaner than fabbing up an adapter bracket ( what I use to do). Lay it out , drill some clearance holes I use a bit stop, if not high speed so it doesn't grab an you have that "AH SHTT" moment . Soak the foam inside the drilled hole I haven't had any heat transfer issues but it's a better safe than sorry step, I also quick cool the welds as soon as completed, Haven't had any issues with it affecting the strength of the weld. Put short 3/8" shoulder bolts with a thicker nylon washer, then your adjustment knobs. I mimiced my Duratrac with this set up and I really like it.


Kevin


Thanks - Great idea and I would probably use it except the seat has two grooves that might hang it up on the support so for this one I will make an adaptor plate made out of 3/4" x 1/8" angle.

Took some pictures of the seat support that was on the tractor that I straightened and plated and gave it a coat of paint. Also took some pictures of the extra seat support that came with it - you can see the cracking at the end of the slots and where someone has welded them. I will probably fix it and keep it as a spare as it appears to be pretty much original but I do not want to do anything to it until I can see if someone can scan it and get a match for the off white colour. When I took the seat off there was a 1/2" bolt threaded up through the centre hole in the seat to hold the coil spring so I used it along with a piece of flat bar to hold the seat spring in position so that I can now adjust the spring backwards independently of the seat. Gave the support a quick paint job and put it back on the tractor - saw I had the two plastic blocks on upside down so I got them on the right way. Also found out that I should have used one piece of rubber in the well - when I glued the two pieces in they were tight but the one on the right walked about a 1/4" away (Bolens magnetism?) - oh well it will get redone sometime in the future.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Seat Support Straightend and Plated.jpg
  • 2 Other Seat Support Cracks At Slots Welded.jpg
  • 3 Other Seat Support top View.jpg
  • 4 Other Seat Support Crack.jpg
  • 5 Seat Support Top View.jpg
  • 6 Bottom Of Seat Pan.jpg
  • 7 Welds Ground And Making Plate For Coil Spring Bolt.jpg
  • 8 Welds Ground And Painted Bottom.jpg
  • 9 Coil Spring Bolt Painted.jpg
  • 10 Welds Ground And Painted 2 Top.jpg
  • 11 Seat Support Back On 1.jpg
  • 12 Rubber Walked.jpg
  • 13 Seat Support Back ON 2.jpg
  • 14 Seat Support Back On 3.jpg

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#27 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2015 - 07:21 PM

Got an adaptor bracket for the seat made up.  The holes should allow me lots of front to back adjustment and let me use four bolts to hold the adaptor to the seat mount.  Double checked the spacing on the grooves in the seat pan and they are four inches centre to centre so they would have allowed the seat to get hung up without the bracket - the seat is not perfect but it will do for several years yet.  Threw a quick coat of paint on it and then got a free "Cat Scan" not sure if it passed or failed as the cat looked at it for about five seconds and then walked away without looking back. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Seat Adaptor Framework.jpg
  • 2 Seat Adaptor WIth Ears Welded.jpg
  • 3 Welds Ground And Ears Drilled 1.jpg
  • 4 Ears Drilled Bottom View.jpg
  • 1 Flat Steel Welded On.jpg
  • 2 Welds Ground And Holes Drilled.jpg
  • 3 Welds Ground And Holes Drilled.jpg
  • 4 Nuts Welded On.jpg
  • 5 Nuts Welded On Bottom View.jpg
  • 6 Quick Paint Job.jpg
  • 7 Quick Paint Job 2.jpg
  • 8 Cat Scan - Pass Or Fail.jpg


#28 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2015 - 04:21 PM

Got some time today to put the seat back on - cleaned up the bottom quickly with a wire brush and gave it a coat of black paint.  After I got it bolted on I tried it out and am happy with the results - with the spring back further it does not bottom out with my big butt on it and it feels much firmer and safer with four bolts holding it on to the seat mount.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Bottom Of Seat.jpg
  • 2 Seat Bottom Painted.jpg
  • 3 Adaptor Bolted To Seat.jpg
  • 4 Adaptor Bolted To Seat.jpg
  • 5 Seat Top View 2.jpg
  • 5 Seat Top View.jpg
  • 6 Seat Bolted On.jpg
  • 7 Seat Bolted On.jpg
  • 8 Seat Bolted On.jpg

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Posted June 03, 2015 - 07:08 PM

Decided to take the front wheel bearings apart with the intention of repacking them as the manual says they should be repacked at least once a year.  When I removed the inner seals and bearings and cleaned the bearings up I decided to replace all four bearings as the inner bearings showed evidence of moisture damage with rust and pitting even though there was lots of grease in them.  Removed the cups, cleaned up the hubs and gave them a squirt of paint.  Pressed in new cups, packed the new cones, filled the hubs with wheel bearing grease and put them back on.  I am thinking about drilling the dust caps and installing a grease fitting so I can give them a shot of grease every few hours.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Old Cone With Rust.jpg
  • 2 Old Cup With Rust.jpg
  • 3 Hubs Cleaned Up And Painted.jpg
  • 4 Dust Caps Painted.jpg
  • 5 Hubs WIth New Cups.jpg
  • 6 Close Up Of Hub.jpg
  • 7 Close Up Of Other Hub.jpg
  • 1 Bearings And Seal Part Numbers.jpg
  • 2 Inner Bearing And Seal Installed.jpg
  • 3 Outer Bearings Packed.jpg
  • 4 Right Wheel Back On.jpg
  • 5 Left Wheel Back On.jpg
  • 6 Left Wheel Inside View.jpg
  • 7 Right Wheel Inside View.jpg

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#30 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2015 - 12:25 AM

Oh No!! Now you will have to paint the rest of the tractor to match!
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