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57565 Brush saw / 57590 Weedcutter Rebuild / 57567 Cordwood Saw


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#1 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2015 - 09:04 PM

Thought I would start a new thread now that I have it home . The 57565 Brush saw has the 57590 Weedcutter conversion mounted on and I'll keep it that way for now . I want to get it in running shape and painted . The first thing was to take the jackshaft and ball lock clutch apart for cleaning and repairs . Of course  the clutch balls fell out and I counted 10 , the book says 11 :wallbanging:   I can't find another :wallbanging:   I'll have to clean up all the clutch parts and see how much rust damage there is . Also if anyone knows of a DB part # belt interchange it would be nice to know . If not I'll find a longer belt , cut it to fit and use that measurement to get a new one  I'm soaking everything with PBlaster and a mix of WD40/motor oil  Here's what I have apart so far.

 

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#2 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2015 - 02:51 AM

Nice ! following this thread for sure.



#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2015 - 05:20 AM

Time to get the magnet out!



#4 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2015 - 05:21 AM

The square headed bolts to hold the blade on don't give much room for any tool I had , ,, except for a chisel lol , but to my surprise just a little tap and the loosened up and came out with just a little bit that I could catch using an open end wrench . Thank goodness the last person put grease on the threads . Looking at the manuals someone might have put those bolts in instead of hex head ? Also they had cardboard between both sides of the blade . That didn't look right because the blade wouldn't locate on the pilot . I put all the cardboard on the retaining cap side . Now writing this maybe those bolts don't belong and the cardboard was there just to keep the bolts from hitting the stationary part of the arbor . Has anyone replaced clutch balls on any DB's ?  Not sure how I'll be able to clean the surfaces the balls contact . I'll clean the best I can then we have a glassbead cabinet at work and see how the that does . 



#5 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2015 - 05:26 AM

 

Time to get the magnet out!

 ,, every DB service manual has " be careful you don't lose the balls "  or something like that lol    If you look at  the one picture I thought there was only 8 balls , :wallbanging:


Edited by Alc, May 13, 2015 - 05:27 AM.

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#6 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2015 - 08:55 PM

Things came apart better then I thought  they would . I got all my old belts to see if I had any 5/8" or guessing letter B ? Did find 2 but didn't have the heart to cut a good ( new ?) 72 & 92" belts just to get a size . I did have a 1/2"belt to cut to size so I'll see how that matches up . I have 2 others  , one for the tractor drive and other from engine to the jack-shaft , neither have #s on them . I was sure the round piece that rotates by pulling a pin for changing  the brush saw 90*  was going to give me troubles but that too came apart fairly easily .  I had an old wheel that's pretty close that I can use for now .

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Edited by Alc, May 13, 2015 - 08:55 PM.

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#7 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2015 - 10:19 AM

Glad it came apart easily. You'll have it working before long.


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#8 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2015 - 10:39 AM

We have a belt size gauge at work so ordered some belts up . Hope I measured right  here's what I ordered , all 5/8's  Dayco #s  5L500 ( 50") 5L300  ( 30") 5L400 (40") and 5L490 (49")    Once I get them and know for sure which ones work I'll repost the size #s  , where /what attachment it fits



#9 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2015 - 05:43 AM

Last night I thought I would tackle the job  getting the special 3 groove pulley off the tractor that came with the saw . I figured it was going to be a problem , so pushed it over to the garage , sprayed the bore and set screw with PBlaster , grab stuff I thought I was going to need , allen sockets , maybe a puller would work ,take that , some flat chisels to back up between the pulley and block so maybe I could break the rust free  with the little crankshaft end play there was  Ok   here goes , put the  allen socket on , turns right out , great ! Spray more PBlaster in the hole . Next get one chisel between the block and pulley just snug , get one on the other side and just try snugging that one up and noticed the first one loosened up ,,,,, no way the pulley just slid off :dancingbanana:   , who even this tractor belonged  must have been a mechanic type person because every spot that you  would normally take apart was well greased . Today I'll sand the V grooves smooth the best I can and glass bead , prime and paint . Even it it's not the correct color I will make it easier when I paint up the whole thing or at least when I mix some paint in the spray gun . I have a cheap HF type touch-up gun that shoots just a little more the what comes out of a spray can for doing small jobs like this project . I listen to my wife , she said to pressure wash the weedcutter deck to get the heavy rust off and it worked  pretty well . Then chipped and ground the rest ,this thing would take a lot of work to look like new but still wanted to look OK . I  brushed POR15 and then a dusting of spray primer when tacky, that's needed because they said once POR15 hardens you have to use a grinder for the paint to stick


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#10 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2015 - 05:49 AM

Glad that pully was easy to remove. I use the Acetone/ATF mix on anything rusty, seems to work better than Blaster.


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#11 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2015 - 07:37 PM

I decided that the Weed Cutter deck was too bad to try for a smooth finish so after the POR15 dried I used Rustoleum Hammered paint . From the reviews the brush on works better then spray , but as things go they didn't have a red that I could used , I called the 800# and talked to a rep. said it can be top coated after a week . Gave it a coat of black Thurs. ,  wrapped the paint brush in a plastic bag and put it in the freezer until today when I used it on the cordwood saw frame . Neither of these needed to be completely covered in the hammered finish , just tried to make the pitting not look so bad , it will get sprayed next week.

 

http://www.rustoleum...-rust/hammered/

 

On that I started by knocking off as much flaking rust then tried Rustoleum Rust Stripper , then the hammered paint

 

http://www.rustoleum.../rust-stripper/

 

 

Sorry the last pic. is out of order but wanted to show what it looked like when I started

 

 

 

 

 

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#12 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2015 - 08:13 PM

Forgot that on the cordwood saw I used Rustoleum Rust Reformer before the hammered paint . It goes on white and drys clear . That needed 4 hours to dry then the hammered paint
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#13 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 05:35 AM

Forgot that on the cordwood saw I used Rustoleum Rust Reformer before the hammered paint . It goes on white and drys clear . That needed 4 hours to dry then the hammered paint

You used a different Rust Reformer than I use. Was your's a spray can? What I get is black spray.



#14 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 05:46 AM

 

You used a different Rust Reformer than I use. Was your's a spray can? What I get is black spray.

  HD only had it in spray cans so I picked up just one , then went to an ACE Hardware and they had it in 8oz bottle , I used it all on just the buck frame . It dried almost clear except where it was thicker , I did 2 coats . I never used this before so  we'll see how it holds up


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#15 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 07:06 AM

Thanks! I'll check out Ace the next time I'm there.






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