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stuck valve ... help ?


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#1 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2015 - 11:03 AM

7016 16hp .has a stuck valve how do I get it unstuck ?

can I lap the valve without removing it after getting it unstuck ?



#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2015 - 11:16 AM

No. A valve sticks because rust or carbon has jammed the valve guide. Here is what I usually do: pull the spark plug, spray in some WD40, Use a bent wire through the spark plug hole to locate the stuck valve. I turn the engine by hand and feel what is moving. When the other valve is opening the stuck should be closing. Stop turning it. Use a stiff piece of wire that is bent and the right length to push the valve down. Turn the engine by hand and feel if the valve is moving or sticking again. Use the wire to push it down again each time it sticks until it frees up. Adding WD will help. Once the engine is running be sure to put Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas from now on to prevent the valves from sticking in the future. When putting away the tractor for awhile it is a good idea to turn the engine by hand until you feel compression. That is when both valves are closed. Good Luck, Rick

 

BTW I've still got the piece of brazing rod that I made up to do this 30 years ago. I've used it on dozens of engines that I picked up. It doesn't happen to me because I use the Marvel.


Edited by boyscout862, May 10, 2015 - 11:20 AM.

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#3 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2015 - 12:19 PM

No. A valve sticks because rust or carbon has jammed the valve guide. Here is what I usually do: pull the spark plug, spray in some WD40, Use a bent wire through the spark plug hole to locate the stuck valve. I turn the engine by hand and feel what is moving. When the other valve is opening the stuck should be closing. Stop turning it. Use a stiff piece of wire that is bent and the right length to push the valve down. Turn the engine by hand and feel if the valve is moving or sticking again. Use the wire to push it down again each time it sticks until it frees up. Adding WD will help. Once the engine is running be sure to put Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas from now on to prevent the valves from sticking in the future. When putting away the tractor for awhile it is a good idea to turn the engine by hand until you feel compression. That is when both valves are closed. Good Luck, Rick

 

BTW I've still got the piece of brazing rod that I made up to do this 30 years ago. I've used it on dozens of engines that I picked up. It doesn't happen to me because I use the Marvel.

HA ! :dancingbanana:  the WD 40 did it !  now I need to put the carb on and get some points ! what should the compression be ?  THANKS !!


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#4 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2015 - 12:19 PM

I had a 5hp Briggs horizontal last month that had an intake valve so stuck, I pulled the shroud, put a crescent on the starter clutch and wound up snapping the valve lifter. I soaked it with Kroil, tapped the valve with a hammer and socket and got it closed, then could never get it open again. I scored the block above the cam  (internally) from when the lifter broke,  and then STILL  could not get the valve to open again using a flat punch and hammer, thru the lifter hole I wound up scrapping it, still have carb and gas tank is all, there's hope for the gas tank but not the carb, to be reusable on another engine.  I had a brand new NOS-from-1983 5HP Briggs here that I was saving for something else, an engine I picked up at an auction last year  I stuck that engine onto the tiller and sold it....


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#5 bbuckler OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2015 - 12:24 PM

I had a 5hp Briggs horizontal last month that had an intake valve so stuck, I pulled the shroud, put a crescent on the starter clutch and wound up snapping the valve lifter. I soaked it with Kroil, tapped the valve with a hammer and socket and got it closed, then could never get it open again. I scored the block above the cam  (internally) from when the lifter broke,  and then STILL  could not get the valve to open again using a flat punch and hammer, thru the lifter hole I wound up scrapping it, still have carb and gas tank is all, there's hope for the gas tank but not the carb, to be reusable on another engine.  I had a brand new NOS-from-1983 5HP Briggs here that I was saving for something else, an engine I picked up at an auction last year  I stuck that engine onto the tiller and sold it....

I have fixed a few 5hp Briggs with stuck valves mostly on go karts.


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#6 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2015 - 02:15 PM

HA ! :dancingbanana:  the WD 40 did it !  now I need to put the carb on and get some points ! what should the compression be ?  THANKS !!

Check the manual on the compression. I have not bothered with a compression check on a small engine after my first attempt many years ago. To do it right, you have to turn it backwards by hand. It didn't seem to be accurate when I tried it so I just go by feel. By using Marvel I get the best out of the engine that it can give. If it smokes after being used for a season, then it needs an overhaul.

 

Rebuild the carb while you have it off. Follow the manual. Good Luck, Rick


Edited by boyscout862, May 10, 2015 - 02:16 PM.

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#7 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2015 - 02:22 PM

I had a 16hp briggs that sat for a decade or 2 and it had a stuck valve.I though that I got it freed up but the valve guide popped loose instead of just the valve.I had to pull the valve completely out and heat it to get it to free up.I tapped the guide back into place and Peened around it with a sharp pointed punch.The thing ran great after that though.


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#8 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2015 - 05:01 PM

From 12:03 PM to 1:19 PM....It wasn't stuck too tight!!

Glad you got it "un" stuck without major problems!


Edited by KC9KAS, May 10, 2015 - 05:02 PM.

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#9 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2015 - 05:10 PM

AND IT RUNS !!!!!!!111!!!!!!!!!ELEVENTY111!11!!!!1111!!!!!!1 :dancingbanana:

it sounds a little rattly verging on knocky ( barely ) more hard rattle. but the valve was stuck so I expect some noise. It had clean looking oil (like he just changed it ) before it ran . ran for a couple minutes and the oil is getting dark pretty quick . hopefully it has some oil everywhere now . I will let it sit for a while and try again... thoughts ??



#10 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2015 - 06:02 PM

I'd put a little MMO in there before you change it and let that work around. Some more when you change oil. A little in the gas won't hurt either.


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#11 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2015 - 08:43 PM

I'd put a little MMO in there before you change it and let that work around. Some more when you change oil. A little in the gas won't hurt either.

that sounds like an excellent idea ! how long should let it run before changing it ?


Edited by alec, May 12, 2015 - 01:55 AM.


#12 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2015 - 07:18 AM

Give it a couple hours. Don't put a heavy load on it. The bottle says you can go as much as 20%, but I try to stay below that, maybe 15%. Here's a link to the info.


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