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HT23 Rescue


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#16 wilberj OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2015 - 09:39 PM

The dash is good everywhere but at the throttle lever.  I think I can back brace that area and fill it smooth with JB Weld?  Can the clear button on the top of the gas cap be replaced?  The float and gas gauge needle still work great.  I also need a piece of that black ribbed material for the right hand foot rest.  Thanks!  Paulattachicon.gif002.jpgattachicon.gif009.jpg

 

I think you can by those clear caps on ebay. 


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#17 blackjackjakexxix OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2015 - 09:40 PM

I might be able to help you on the foot pads also,not sure about the ball joints


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#18 Paulgo OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2015 - 09:50 PM

Yes, the "bolster" is the axle support. Man look at the cat turds on the steering arm. It never ceases to amaze me the welds that people attempt, when they obviously should not have even tried. Please, for the love of all things Bolens, repair that mess correctly. LOL

I'm lucky to have rescued this before the guy could do anything more to it.  Don't worry, I will fix it right.


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#19 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2015 - 11:24 PM

After you replace the axle support, make sure you have the L-shaped bracket installed under the frame members on both sides correctly. Part of the reason that the axle support (bolster) breaks is that if the front end hits something the axle itself tends to try to rotate backwards. The L-shaped brackets are intended to help prevent that adverse rotation.


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#20 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2015 - 07:47 AM

Wow! Great deal on a very nice looking HT23. That one is in great condition which makes your deal even more impressive. The axle issue is easily dealt with and you will have a fine Super sized GT


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#21 gardentractornut OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2015 - 09:28 AM

Dang, you STOLE that thing! Great buy!


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#22 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2015 - 09:53 AM

Hello , okay , here's some issues I notice : # 1 it is a late model 23 so it has the smaller tie rod ends , and they are double males compared to the old style which were male- female , the one going into the end of the P.S. unit is the smaller male thread ( I'm guessing here they are 3/8" it's fine thread and left handed , so is one of the ones on your tie rod ( tire to tire) these are NLA and the source most of us use, Midwest is out and told me they (as of now )are no longer going to stock them. So I suggest if they need replaced , switch over to the old style ,the tie rods are more common ( you even can get new repop ones) and the old style tie rod ends are readily available ( again our sight sponsors can supply these ). This would also require the older style steering arms on the spindles ,that one that is gorilla welded probably isn't worth the grind down repair it needs so replacement will be harder to accomplish trying to find the later model (newer)style , the older ones are more plentiful. Basically old style 5/8" holes for tie rod ends, newer style 3/8" hole. It should have the needle bearings in the front axle for the wheel spindles ( instead of older style bushings) you might as well check the condition of those as well. Again our site sponsors have those . # 2 when you get into the support/bolster change out ( it's a pain ) check the condition of the PTO idler pulley bearing its non lubricatable and usually in my tear downs I find these needing replaced, IMO if your going to USE this machine while you have it down is the time to replace it. Same goes for PTO shaft bearings and belts. Last ( and not least ) I cannot emphazise ENOUGH if your doing all this work DO NOT use the Chinese crap, garbage, shtt, etc . They don't last! See our site sponsors I know Brian ( Bolens parts and supply) cross references these to USA made ones, and Rick ( Ricks Bolens parts ) probably has NOS . Good luck with your over haul.

PS if originality is a priority PM me I have a supply of the newer style tie rod ends , expensive thou.

Regards Kevin

Edited by WrenchinOnIt, May 08, 2015 - 10:35 AM.

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#23 ClassicBolens ONLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2015 - 11:34 AM

Everything that Kevin said is spot on. Also, be sure to closely inspect the axle pivot pin and replace the pivot pin bearings while it's apart. I can almost guarantee they have never been replaced. 

 

If you decide to try keep everything original and have any trouble sourcing any of these parts, feel free to PM me. I know I have the newer style RH steering arm NOS and should also have some of the other hard items.


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#24 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2015 - 12:02 PM

Good deal on the HT23 you will like it. My bolster broke twice, once when I bought it (broke from original owner) once when I ran into a small hole with a large frame tiller in the bucket... I replaced it with another one it just takes time as there are a lot of pieces to take apart up front under there. I found that you need to have a nice tight fit between the bolster and the front frame rails so that there is no potential for movement/flex  which snaps them every time.


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#25 Rainier OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2015 - 12:15 PM

Wow good save. That is a clean machine, and if that hour meter is right . That is some low hours. Good luck with getting back together. It shouldn't be to bad of a job.
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#26 Paulgo OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2015 - 12:45 PM

Hello , okay , here's some issues I notice : # 1 it is a late model 23 so it has the smaller tie rod ends , and they are double males compared to the old style which were male- female , the one going into the end of the P.S. unit is the smaller male thread ( I'm guessing here they are 3/8" it's fine thread and left handed , so is one of the ones on your tie rod ( tire to tire) these are NLA and the source most of us use, Midwest is out and told me they (as of now )are no longer going to stock them. So I suggest if they need replaced , switch over to the old style ,the tie rods are more common ( you even can get new repop ones) and the old style tie rod ends are readily available ( again our sight sponsors can supply these ). This would also require the older style steering arms on the spindles ,that one that is gorilla welded probably isn't worth the grind down repair it needs so replacement will be harder to accomplish trying to find the later model (newer)style , the older ones are more plentiful. Basically old style 5/8" holes for tie rod ends, newer style 3/8" hole. It should have the needle bearings in the front axle for the wheel spindles ( instead of older style bushings) you might as well check the condition of those as well. Again our site sponsors have those . # 2 when you get into the support/bolster change out ( it's a pain ) check the condition of the PTO idler pulley bearing its non lubricatable and usually in my tear downs I find these needing replaced, IMO if your going to USE this machine while you have it down is the time to replace it. Same goes for PTO shaft bearings and belts. Last ( and not least ) I cannot emphazise ENOUGH if your doing all this work DO NOT use the Chinese crap, garbage, shtt, etc . They don't last! See our site sponsors I know Brian ( Bolens parts and supply) cross references these to USA made ones, and Rick ( Ricks Bolens parts ) probably has NOS . Good luck with your over haul.

PS if originality is a priority PM me I have a supply of the newer style tie rod ends , expensive thou.

Regards Kevin

Huge thanks!  This is the stuff I need to know.  My intention is to fix this, work it often, and cherish it.  Keeping it original is not my concern.  I got 20 years out of a 1972 Sears and am now in my second year with Bolens.  They are my future...  :)


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#27 blackjackjakexxix OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2015 - 03:53 PM

If you decide to change the ball joint over to the style Kevin suggest I have a lot of them,I can fix you right up,just pm me
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#28 Paulgo OFFLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2015 - 09:24 PM

Got it home and wrapped it in a big tarp.  Life keeps getting in the way, but hope to get it running this weekend.  Once I know the engine is sound, and have driven it forwards and backwards a little bit, I can block it up and take the front end apart.  Not sure if I will get the bolster welded or replace it.  Haven't found one for sale yet.  Will definitely need to replace everything from the power steering cylinder forward.  Would like to do as Kevin suggested and go old style.  Am also missing some parts for the PTO-- the linkage pin, spring, and lower belt guard...

 

Wish me luck!  Paul



#29 blackjackjakexxix OFFLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2015 - 08:34 PM

Paul,got your email,and replied back,wasn't sure what all your looking for,I have a bolster
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#30 Paulgo OFFLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2015 - 09:40 PM

I have been doing a lot of reading and what I need isn't totally clear.  The bolsters came in two versions.  If my axle, and pivot pin, are good then I need the later bolster.  The later HT23's used a different sized pin, which also meant a different axle and bolster... 

 

As for the steering knuckle, they had three versions...  I assume I will need the first version.  The power steering cylinder looks good and so does the left steering arm and spindle.  Everything on the right side is garbage.  Really uncertain what to do there, as far as where to draw the line.  It looks like I could change everything on the right from the PS cylinder to the tie rod and leave the left side alone.  Does that make sense?  Do I replace everything or just what is bad?  Old style on one side and original on the other?


Edited by Paulgo, May 21, 2015 - 06:48 AM.





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