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G16XT Transmission Drive pulley Won't Stop Turning


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#1 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2015 - 04:30 PM

I have cleaned up both pulleys, the one from the gear box and the large one on the transaxle.  The belt tension adjustment is adjusted for maximum release on the belt.  With the engine off I can get under the tractor and pulled the clutch pedal down.  The belt goes slack and I can turn it around the pulleys by hand real free.  When the engine is running the belt continues to turn the transmission pulley.  Have to turn the tractor off, put it in gear, then start the tractor.  The clutch pedal has to come up a ways before it starts to move the tractor so I think I have that adjustment correct.  Any suggestions as to why this is happening and what can be done to correct it ? ?


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#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2015 - 05:06 PM

There is usually a pin or a pulley shield that is adjusted to rub against the belt when the clutch is almost fully disengaged. This will stop the belt from slipping when the clutch is disengaged. Check the manual in our Manuals Section. Good Luck, Rick


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#3 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2015 - 05:23 PM

The manual does not show much at all for the gear drive.  Nothing is mentioned about changing belts or shows any belt guides.  It does mention to adjust "a belt guide" to 1/16" clearance when clutch is released.  Does not say where this guide is at I have not found it.  Bought this tractor several hands down the line so who knows? ? ?



#4 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2015 - 05:29 PM

The manual does not show much at all for the gear drive.  Nothing is mentioned about changing belts or shows any belt guides.  It does mention to adjust "a belt guide" to 1/16" clearance when clutch is released.  Does not say where this guide is at I have not found it.  Bought this tractor several hands down the line so who knows? ? ?

Post a pic of the belt and clutch pulley. If its clear enough for these old eyes, I'll be able to pick it out for you. It may be the shield that is attached to the clutch pulley. It needs only a little clearance and it needs to be angled to rub the belt(if that is what you have. Good Luck, Rick


Edited by boyscout862, May 04, 2015 - 05:30 PM.

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#5 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2015 - 05:58 PM

Will get a pic tomorrow when I get it back up on the table where I9 can get at it good.  There is a flat piece with a  turned up end on the tensioning pulley.  Where the belt goes over the top of that pulley I thought that flat piece was to hold the belt from flopping.  Will look closer in the morning.



#6 ClassicBolens ONLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2015 - 11:03 AM

Unfortunately this is typical with a replacement belt that is not quite the correct size. I really suggest you get an original Bolens belt for it. The problem will go away, unless there is another unknown issue.
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#7 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2015 - 11:54 AM

Got the G16 up on the table this morning where I could get a good look at things.  First thing I spotted is the gear box pulley was not running parallel to the belt. 

 

Bear Box Angle.JPG        Gear Box Gap.JPG

 

There was a hole in the front of the gear box bracket near the left had edge.  Fabricated an anchor with a piece of 3/8 threaded rod with flat iron welded to it.  Drilled a hole to line up the rod in the side frame and mounted it.  Loosened the two other bolts and tightened the new bracket down hard, then the two other bolts.  Pulley and belt run straight now.  Problem solved.  On to the belt guides.

 

Box Belt Guides.JPG

 

The top belt guide was not close to the belt when the belt was tight.  Had to pry it down as it was bent out of shape prior, probably by a belt change.  Also there was no bottom belt guide so had to do some more fabrication.  3/8" X 6" carriage bolt was donated to this piece.  Here are the belt guides as they are now.  Have not tried it as yet but will shortly.  I do have an OEM belt if this does not solve the problem.  Thanks for the advice. 

Fab Belt Guide.JPG                        Rear Belt Guide.JPG   

 

Clutch Belt Guide.JPG

 

Anyone spot any potential problem with anything you see in the photos please speak up.


Edited by chieffan, May 05, 2015 - 11:57 AM.

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#8 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2015 - 01:50 PM

Well, I found the problem.  It was that darn green belt.  Changed it over to an OEM belt and it worked fine from the get go.  They sure didn't make it easy to change belts on those critters.  Probably why they don't mention it in any of the manuals for it.  Have to take the gear box completely loose from the frame.  Then do the same with the transaxle.  Then jack the frame up away from the axle on the right side to get the belt past then end of the driven pulley shaft.  In order to accomplish all this the fender has to come off for access to the bolts and the one that anchors the transaxle to the cross member.

 

Anyway, NAPA is going to get a $39 belt back like it or not.  Will probably pitch a  @$*& because I used it.  How in heck does one know it will work or not if it isn't tried?  I have two others there for the RAM that I may not take either.  Last time I will ever try a NAPA replacement belt.  I checked the OEM against the NAPA with the calipers and the outside and inside width was different as well as the thickness.  No way to really tell about length.

 

Thanks for all the advise and suggestions.


Edited by chieffan, May 05, 2015 - 01:51 PM.

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#9 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2015 - 02:31 PM

Once again you were right.

 

Unfortunately this is typical with a replacement belt that is not quite the correct size. I really suggest you get an original Bolens belt for it. The problem will go away, unless there is another unknown issue.


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#10 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2015 - 04:56 PM

Unfortunately this is typical with a replacement belt that is not quite the correct size. I really suggest you get an original Bolens belt for it. The problem will go away, unless there is another unknown issue.

 

:ditto:

Ran into this many times myself over the years, I would suggest an OEM belt or I would have to do some work and get a metric one with correct V groove.

 

I always tell my customers Napa "Autoparts"  Not Napa "Tractor" parts LOL :D :poke:


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#11 ClassicBolens ONLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2015 - 06:28 PM

I've always told people the correct belts were designed specifically for the tractor. The tractor was not designed around a standard belt.
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#12 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2015 - 07:27 PM

Glad I was able to help you out with the correct belt,glad to see its up and working,as ClassicBolens stated that's the problem with after market belts
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