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Troy Bilt GTX 20 Eaton 11 Pump Diag and Replacement


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#1 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2011 - 11:23 AM

Well, Here we are everyone. I wanted to start a new thread to help other users who may have the eaton 11 hydro and may have problems like myself and may need to have it replaced. I would like to invite anyone who may have knowledge of the eaton 11 systems to please comment during the diag and possible replacement I am now getting into with my Troy Bilt GTX 20. I will post many pictures along the way and as most people know I have a youtube channel where I will upload videos as well on how to go about checking and if needed replace the eaton 11 hydro. Thanks KennyP for the suggestion of a new thread and thanks to everyone who have commented on my other thread so far...In Case anyone has not seen this thread here is a link to that and my youtube channel:

http://gardentractor...bilt-gtxs-5226/

YouTube - Nascar3244888

#2 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2011 - 02:06 PM

Well Ive Made some more progress today...I believe I am now ready to start actually getting into the hydro. I think I have everything atleast out of the way now as far as the gas tank, fender, seat, kick panel etc. Still waiting to hear if there is something I can do to check for air in the system or how to if possible check for the amount of pressure in system before I actually remove it. I took some pics for ya's including some of the leaking seal in the front of the pump where the driveshaft and fan are.....

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#3 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2011 - 06:36 PM

I want to take some more pics tomorrow but I removed both hydro's, from both the gtx 20 and bolens 1600. There are hardly no differences between the 2. I have found though that the driveshaft doesnt seem long enough. It just seems to barely slip on the keyed shaft for the hydro, and the driveshaft is really on there, it doesnt want to move at all so if I cant get it to move I will most likely have to tear into both hydros and remove both pumps and put the 1600's pump on the gtx. Thats a last resort though. I need more room to work lol, I had to take the gtx 16 out so I had more room to work...On the plus side a guy came and bought one reel mower today and after I strip the 1600 of parts I need he is buying the 1600 for parts for his lol...

#4 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2011 - 07:16 PM

I was going to say to buy a hydro off that guy I got mine off of but since you are selling the 1600 for parts again might as well use it's hydro since you have it. The pump comes apart really easy. It is only two bolts that hold the cover on. Just make sure you have it nice and level pointing up when you pull the cover off. The one rotor is right there and with the cover off the pistons can come out of the cylinder but if you have the hydro sitting level there is a lot less of a chance to have one of the pistons come out.

#5 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2011 - 06:34 AM

I. Might actually do the swap of the hydro pumps and stuff that are held on by those 4 bolts. I think in the long run it would be alot easier too because of the driveshaft being the way it is. I may not be able to post pics for a while because my computer went kaput. So im using my phone to tell u this lol. As far as removing the trans and such I had a bit more trouble width the gtx but that's probably because that's the first one I ever removed. When it came time for the 1600. I had that out in no time lol. Before I took the hydro out of the gtx I removed the top pump line which comes from the control valve for the power steering and lifts and turned the engine over to see which way the fluid comes and I found out that the fluid gets pumped there to the ps and lifts then I did the same for the line from the filter to the pump on the side and it flows from the filter to the pump again.

#6 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2011 - 06:37 AM

By the way I found out that I do intact have a keyed shaft on the hydro on both gtx and 1600

#7 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2011 - 07:12 AM

If you do end up swapping the drive shaft ends of the pumps just make sure the motor race is in good shape with no scratches or scoring.
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#8 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2011 - 04:21 AM

well after making some changes and swapping some parts, I was able to get the gtx RUNNING, DRIVING, STEERING and ALL HYDRAULICS WORKING WITH THE 1600's TRANS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was a real PITA too. I still have to put the original gray wheels and tires on it because the 1600 white wheels and tires are on it right now. I had a real problem trying to get the brakes to work because the setup is not totally the same as what the gtx 20's was. I had to use a rod from the gtx's old brake system and put it onto the 1600's because if I was to have used just the 1600's it would have been to short, and they made this tractor that you cant remove any safety's because there are 2 safety's for the brake...one for when it has to be pressed down to start the tractor which most tractors today have and then one where when you take the brake off to move. So I used half of one which was originally on the 1600 for the brake side of the bracket which moves when you press the foot pedal and then i used the gtx one on the other side of the bracket and ran it to the brake pedal bracket. I had to modify the eyehook mechanism alittle to fit into the bracket for the brake...all i did to modify it was I filed it down some so it could fit. That was the only modification needed for this task. The same day I did this I sprayed some PB Blaster into the driveshaft sleeve because it would not move. Came back the next day and with a hammer and a piece of wood, I was able to make it slide right on to the hydro....then I realized that I forgot to put the fan for the hydro on the end of the driveshaft:bash: so I had to slide it back off so I could put it on....Then I was able to slide it back on the hydro again and I tightened down the set screw.....slapped the gas tank on and the seat bracket and it started right up!!! Then it started moving backwards uncontrolably and almost went through the fence lol!! After figuring out how to adjust the nuetral setting I was able to get it pretty close....it still needs alittle adjustment put its pretty good right now. I ended up putting the fender and rest of the body parts back on now all I need to do is put the tires on that originally came on the gtx, and a couple little odds and ends, plus I want to tune it up too....Oh by the way it only does have 69hrs on it!! the hours meter does work!!! I will have to make some vids and take some pics because its hard to understand what I did without doing that......BUT IT ALL WORKS NOW!!!:rocker: By the way the 1600 was sold to a guy up the road so thats gone now too!!

#9 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2011 - 05:02 AM

So you swapped the whole rear end assembly and not just the hydro? What made you decide to go that route? Although since you had the 1600 sold already and were able to take the whole rear end out of it then swapping the whole rear probably was about the easiest method. Glad to hear you got it going again. I hate it when they sit there in neutral for a while and then all of a sudden start moving. That is what the new 1655 I got does. I haven't had a chance to adjust the neutral on it yet.

#10 Tinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2011 - 05:45 AM

Glad that you were able to do a complete swap. I have a 1600H and love it. I am slowly acquiring more accessories for it.

#11 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2011 - 12:57 PM

So you swapped the whole rear end assembly and not just the hydro? What made you decide to go that route? Although since you had the 1600 sold already and were able to take the whole rear end out of it then swapping the whole rear probably was about the easiest method. Glad to hear you got it going again. I hate it when they sit there in neutral for a while and then all of a sudden start moving. That is what the new 1655 I got does. I haven't had a chance to adjust the neutral on it yet.


It was the easiest to do like you said...this way i didnt have to mess around taking both hydros off and swapping them....I am going to keep an eye out for another hydro unit for the gtx's 2 speed trans though incase this one goes eventually...although i hope it doesnt....funny though how a 12 year older trans fixed the newer gtx....

#12 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2011 - 12:22 AM



#13 awol OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2011 - 06:24 AM

Hey Nascar, Nice tractor I don't know if you have a service manual but Sonnys has one on there site with all the info you need. Your tractor has power steering and it all runs through the hydro. The drain plug is located on the front side of the hydro on page 23 of the manual. Here is a link, hope this helps.
http://sonnys_bolens...rm770-1177A.pdf
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#14 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2011 - 06:38 AM

Brad, is that video after you swapped the rear with the one from the Bolens?

#15 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2011 - 06:48 AM

no it is from before....i am unbehind in my editing and uploading




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