Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Operating Table done


  • Please log in to reply
20 replies to this topic

#16 JBRamsey OFFLINE  

JBRamsey
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61995
  • 973 Thanks
  • 587 posts
  • Location: North Carolina

Posted April 28, 2015 - 08:20 PM

Keep an eye on the deck screws. They aren't very good in shear. I use through bolts countersunk with flat washers and locknuts on my benches. The peace of mind is worth the few extra dollars to me.
  • Michaelfore said thank you

#17 chieffan ONLINE  

chieffan
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 62695
  • 6,169 Thanks
  • 4,515 posts
  • Location: SW Iowa

Posted April 28, 2015 - 08:31 PM

Keep an eye on the deck screws. They aren't very good in shear. I use through bolts countersunk with flat washers and locknuts on my benches. The peace of mind is worth the few extra dollars to me.

If you will note there is not pressure on the deck screws.  That is why I mortised the main support joist into the legs.   That notch holds all the weight, not the screws.  There is also a point of over kill too.  Locknuts ? ? ?


Edited by chieffan, April 28, 2015 - 08:32 PM.

  • nglauer said thank you

#18 chieffan ONLINE  

chieffan
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 62695
  • 6,169 Thanks
  • 4,515 posts
  • Location: SW Iowa

Posted April 28, 2015 - 08:53 PM

First tractor up the ramps and onto the work table was the G16XT. I put a 1/4" bolt about 6" long down through the top end of the ramps to hold them in place. Can be located in two locations for different wheel spacing. Had no issues what so ever getting the tractor up or back down. As a word of caution to anyone thinking of building a work table by all means use an electric winch that is power out as well as power in. You want to control that tractor going back down the ramp and would be real hard to do with a hand winch or one that free wheels going out. If the crank on a hand winch got away from you I hat to think of the consequences !

G156 Half Way-1.JPG G16 Half Way-2.JPG

G126 Half Way-3.JPG Winch Anchor.JPG

I got brave this afternoon an drove the 1050 up the ramps and onto the table. I had the chocks in place for the front wheels but did not need them. In low 1st it worked out real good. Crawls up the 10' ramps like nothing was there. The 6 X 6 supports under the center of the ramps makes a big difference. Next big test will be one of the 4 wheeler's.
  • HDWildBill, oldedeeres, Sawdust and 1 other said thanks

#19 Genem OFFLINE  

Genem
  • Member
  • Member No: 52933
  • 65 Thanks
  • 47 posts
  • Location: nminn

Posted April 28, 2015 - 10:13 PM

Nice job on a real necessary table. I would try a 2x4 on edge under each ramp plank with screws thru from the top to strengthen the ramps. I wish I had one. Gene

#20 JBRamsey OFFLINE  

JBRamsey
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61995
  • 973 Thanks
  • 587 posts
  • Location: North Carolina

Posted April 29, 2015 - 08:37 PM

If you will note there is not pressure on the deck screws.  That is why I mortised the main support joist into the legs.   That notch holds all the weight, not the screws.  There is also a point of over kill too.  Locknuts ? ? ?


I agree with you on a pure vertical static load, but that's not going to happen 100% of the time. Moving the mower up the ramps doesn't put a full vertical load on the table. You will push and pull on wrenches and parts when working on the tractors. You and your buddies will lean on the table while working or hanging out. That's when things can get dicey. That's also why I add cross bracing to stop racking. Even shelving has crossbracing.

Are lock nuts overkill? Maybe, but wood never stops moving. It's constantly expanding and contracting from humidity changes. That's why I use lock nuts.

#21 chieffan ONLINE  

chieffan
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 62695
  • 6,169 Thanks
  • 4,515 posts
  • Location: SW Iowa

Posted May 02, 2015 - 08:58 PM

Waiting for parts for the G16 so rolled it off and pulled the RAM yup on the table yesterday. spent most of the day cleaning things up, carb in the parts washer, cleaned up the variable pulley and several other maintenance type items. today was ignition day. Pulled the flywheel and found a bunch of old leaves and junk piled in there. Cleaned the coil and rotor up, re-gaped the coil and on to the points. They were junk so removed them completely along with the push pin. Cut a gasket to cover the push pin hole and mounted an electronic ignition for a Briggs single where the points were. Lengthened wires and got it all hooked up. Put the spark checker in line with the plug and - no fire. Switched the wires around oh the ignition module and tried it again. first pull had fire. Put the cleaned carb together and mounted it. The kill switch was not making contact anyplace so it had to come apart, cleaned and back together again. Got it working. Found a piece of rope about the right length and put a wood pull handle on it. 4 pulls and it took of running, little rough but a little adjustment on the high speed jet took care of that. Let it warm up some while I blew compressed air across the head fins as it has no shroud on as yet. Little more adjusting and it idled down and ran nice and smooth. Surprised the heck out of me. Need to come up with an air cleaner and new belts and it just might be ready for some run time. Haven't got to the deck yet but I know the right blade is on the left side.




Top