20 replies to this topic

[chieffan]

I started a post asking the height of a work table. Got a lot of good advice and good answers. I have 3 tractor in the shop that I am working on and decided it was past time to get a work table built and in use. Was a nice day with sunshine so today was it.
All lumber was left over from a pole building I put up , with used lumber from a wind damage building. I use the 6 X 6 pole stubs for the legs. Cut 4 of them 30" long. On one side of each post I cut away a 2 X 6 notch to hold the top side rails. With them cut to the 74" length, the side rails were screwed to the post square with 3" deck screws. I used a 1/4" impact driver to drive the screws through pilot holes in the 2 X 6.



After the two side frames were built I positioned them in the shop and attached the 2 X 6 X 40" end pieces. Then the top planks were cut and attached.



I plan to pull the tractors on front first so attached 3 - 2 X 8 planks on the end the rear of the tractor would be and 2 planks on the front end. The rest of the plank were laid loose for removal as needed.



At this point I do not think any bracing will be needed as the winch will be anchored to the end of the table and the pull will be against the ramps. It is a dead solid work table. I have 4 wheel chocks to block all four wheels while the tractor is on the table. No nails were used. Everything was attached with 3" deck screws with pilot holes in the piece being anchored.

2 X 4's double can be substituted for the 6 X 6 post. but I would add cross and lengthwise bracing using this method.

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[JBRamsey]

It looks good. Nice and solid. One thing I like to do is put a cross brace between the legs. It doesn't have to be much, just something to keep the legs from parellograming on you, if you start pushing and shoving hard. A piece of 1x4 angles from top to bottom of two sets of the legs is plenty. The notches help on that, but I like to be extra safe.

[chieffan]

It looks good. Nice and solid. One thing I like to do is put a cross brace between the legs. It doesn't have to be much, just something to keep the legs from parellograming on you, if you start pushing and shoving hard. A piece of 1x4 angles from top to bottom of two sets of the legs is plenty. The notches help on that, but I like to be extra safe.

With 6 X 6 legs and the sides notched, if you really go to pushing on the tractor it would slide before those legs would give any. I am going to put a cross piece on the ends close to the floor so I can put one end on a low roller table and the other on a dolly to move it around when not needed.

[lyall]

looks great and should help a lot.

 

I think I might make one like your.  Great idea you have.

The one thing that I would do different is the middle 2x8 for the rear end for the garden tractor is I would lower the middle board down a half inch.  That way it would help stop the garden tractor from rolling off and I would need to put stop blocks on the deck.

[MH81]

Looks like a perfect solution. Very similar to my non paper plans, just waiting for the right stuff and the time.
What length ramps are you planning and hand crank winch or powered?

One small suggestion. Cleats on the boards to keep them from ever sliding accidentally. 1/4" or so would do it, heck... Even just screw heads would probably be enough.

[nglauer]

It looks really nice. I have thought about building something similar, but out of old metal warehouse racks. I plan to add heavy caster wheels so i can roll it around the garage.

[oldedeeres]

    Just an idea, when you put the cross piece on the ends close to the floor, keep them high enough so that when you're working at the end the toe of your boot will fit under them. It's right inconvenient to stub your toe every time you try to get closer to the job at hand. Voice of experience, lol.

[JDBrian]

Nice addition to your shop. Looks like a real back saver.

[Deerlope]

Nice work table

[HANKG]

Stout table the removable center pieces is genius . My question is how do you keep the opposite end of the table from lifting up when your trying to pull the tractor up on it ? unless one end is anchored to the floor.

[chieffan]

looks great and should help a lot.
 
I think I might make one like your.  Great idea you have.
The one thing that I would do different is the middle 2x8 for the rear end for the garden tractor is I would lower the middle board down a half inch.  That way it would help stop the garden tractor from rolling off and I would need to put stop blocks on the deck.

That may work but If I was going that route I would have a removable 2 X 6 where the back wheels would sit. roll the front over that area, remove the 2 X 6 and roll the rear wheel into the opening. Would hold a lot more than the 1/2 or 3/4" hump I think.

[chieffan]

Looks like a perfect solution. Very similar to my non paper plans, just waiting for the right stuff and the time.
What length ramps are you planning and hand crank winch or powered?

One small suggestion. Cleats on the boards to keep them from ever sliding accidentally. 1/4" or so would do it, heck... Even just screw heads would probably be enough.

Ramp length will be 8' 2 X 10. Winch will be powered and removable with one nut. Haven't got that far yet. I thought about the cleats under the removable planks. May do that yet two. Built this from an idea, nothing on paper. Can always add or change things as needed. Hard to do with steel.

Edited by chieffan, April 27, 2015 - 06:26 PM.

[chieffan]

It looks really nice. I have thought about building something similar, but out of old metal warehouse racks. I plan to add heavy caster wheels so i can roll it around the garage.

Those racks would work out great also and may even be lighter than wood. I would have liked to have wheels on this one but my floor is 14 year old compacted rock and dirt. I would take an 6 wheel to roll decent and any little rock would stop it dead. Still a little primitive on this end. Looking at a wood floor over the rock./dirt down the road. Just a thought at this point.

[chieffan]

Stout table the removable center pieces is genius . My question is how do you keep the opposite end of the table from lifting up when your trying to pull the tractor up on it ? unless one end is anchored to the floor.

Should not be any problem with lifting. In order for the table to lift, the top end with the ramps would have to move against the pulling force. The weight of the machine will add down pressure to the table along with a pushing action. Kind of like load a vehicle on a car hauler.

It may be a little different if one was driving the tractor up the ramps. The torque from the rotation of the drive wheel would be a pulling effect to the ramps and the top of the table. Not going to brave that option. Brakes are not that great!

Edited by chieffan, April 27, 2015 - 08:00 AM.

[chieffan]

UPDATE:  Picked up the 2 X 10 ramps today but went to the 10' as the 8' were not the best quality.  Used the table to work on a 1050 that would no start.  Winch pulled it up onto the table with no problem  The remote on the winch helped as it could reach the front wheels to guide it up.  Got that one running good and let it back down and put it in the shed.  Next up was the G16XT I just purchased.  It was a lot heavier and I had a lot more bow in the ramps.  will taper a couple 4 X 4's as supports under the ramps before it goes back down for a engine pull in the morning.  Need to replace the drive on the starter and have to lift the engine to get the starter off.  With the table at 30" it is a little bit of a reach to change spark plugs but for other work it is just about right.  I am 5'11" so you can judge from that.  That table is going to be big back and knee saver down the road.  When I don't need it  I can pick it up with the tractor and loader and put it in the machine shed.

 

If I was building another one I would go about it the same way.  Leave the top level and use the wheel chocks where you want the tractor.  Next item will be a light duty winch to lift the engines out and back in while on the table.  Harbor Freight here I came !