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My MF 10 restore/rebuild


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#31 DMF OFFLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2011 - 12:53 PM

So here's my update for the weekend. I got the 66 stripped to almost just the frame. It took a bit of work to get the brake pedal and implement lever off. The dash tower/structure came off with some parts still attached so I need to go through that. The screw for the vari-drive pulley: I Kroiled it all week, borrowed and impact screw driver, set it for left hand threads (thanks again George); one whack and it came loose! You have to get lucky once in a while!

I was also able to remove the good steering wheel from the 67 without any damage; yahoo!

My gaskets came in so they went to my father-in-law's along with all the engine sheet metal I had painted up. I expect I'll be hearing that run shortly.

If my electrolosis tank works as hoped (it's working on my seat pan at the moment) I should be in good shape to get all my parts stripped and primed in good time. I need to pull the sheet metal/parts off the 67 that I plan to use plus I will need to open up one of the rear ends and see what needs to be replaced. From what I've gathered in my reading here so far I'm looking at seals and detent springs for the most part...?

OK, here's my dumb question of the day: How do you take off the bearing/hub covers off the front wheels without marking them all up????

#32 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2011 - 02:43 PM

So here's my update for the weekend. I got the 66 stripped to almost just the frame. It took a bit of work to get the brake pedal and implement lever off. The dash tower/structure came off with some parts still attached so I need to go through that. The screw for the vari-drive pulley: I Kroiled it all week, borrowed and impact screw driver, set it for left hand threads (thanks again George); one whack and it came loose! You have to get lucky once in a while!

I was also able to remove the good steering wheel from the 67 without any damage; yahoo!

My gaskets came in so they went to my father-in-law's along with all the engine sheet metal I had painted up. I expect I'll be hearing that run shortly.

If my electrolosis tank works as hoped (it's working on my seat pan at the moment) I should be in good shape to get all my parts stripped and primed in good time. I need to pull the sheet metal/parts off the 67 that I plan to use plus I will need to open up one of the rear ends and see what needs to be replaced. From what I've gathered in my reading here so far I'm looking at seals and detent springs for the most part...?

OK, here's my dumb question of the day: How do you take off the bearing/hub covers off the front wheels without marking them all up????



Sounds like you've been busy. Glad you got the wheel off.
Let me guess about the parts in the dash tower. The part that won't move for you is the shaft that the varidrive lever is on. It's stuck in the bushing on the left side of the tower. I had to drill a hole in the left side of the dash tower, so I could get a
punch on the end of that shaft. Had to measure carefully, to locate the hole, but
you can see the weld marks if you look real close.
Then had to build up a bunch of blocking, and use plenty of heat on the bushing
to get that shaft out. I left the hole, so my kids will have it easier in 30 years.:D

Front wheel bearing covers removal without marking them. You don't
do that. You will end up sanding the waterpump plier jaw marks off.:D

#33 nova ss OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2011 - 02:05 PM

Take lots of pics i,m also redoing a 10 but i will be much slower than you. I own and operate a tractor trailer so not home during the week so on weekend i,m busy doing maintenance so i can go back to work,plus honeydo list you know what i mean in other words takes me a long time to do just about anything. so like said take lots of pictures and good luck, love looking at things Fire fighter EMT is doing a true pro.

#34 DMF OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2011 - 03:13 PM

Picked up the finished engine from my FIL last night. I'll try and get some photos of it this weekend. My plan is to try to get some more parts through the electrolosis tank and primed. I hope to get a coat of paint on my hay rake as well (another project). Sunday is going to be spent working on the farm truck (yet, another project...)

#35 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2011 - 04:49 PM

Did you fire up the engine?
How's it run?

#36 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2011 - 01:43 PM

Wow.... You are flying on this thing! I better get off my duff and get my hydro parts finished or it will be MINE that is not ready for paint on time!

I did however get my AG's back on today and the snow tires put back in storage, so that is something, right?

#37 DMF OFFLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2011 - 06:22 AM

Did you fire up the engine?
How's it run?

Didn't fire it up but I have no doubt that it'll run fine. We pulled it over by hand and it has great spark. Because it'll be a while before everything else is ready we decided to wait before firing it up. For all my father-in-law's faults, he is hands down the best engine builder I have ever known; if he says it's perfect, you can take it to the bank.

Lee - Don't worry about me, I was going right along but I hit a dead end this weekend. Park Auto Trim is now closed on Saturdays so that was a wasted trip for me (except for finding the utility trailer I've been looking for...so far the owner doesn't want to part with it though...) Then, my electrolosis tank stopped working. I shut it off last week because weeknights are crazy for me at the moment and I wasn't going to have the time to clean the parts right away etc. but when I went to fire it up on Friday night nothing happened. I'm not sure if the charger is dead or what.

Sunday I made great progress.......on the farm truck.

#38 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2011 - 07:38 PM

There is a chance you fried the charger, that is a huge tank you have set up, right? If you let it sit, would it come back by chance? You may of just popped an internal breaker.

#39 timothy OFFLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2011 - 08:51 PM

there are lots when i google rebuild kit for my tec i found every rebuild kit for every motor

#40 DMF OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2011 - 06:55 AM

There is a chance you fried the charger, that is a huge tank you have set up, right? If you let it sit, would it come back by chance? You may of just popped an internal breaker.

Huge is relative I guess....the tank I have at the moment is 32 gallons. I would have guessed that I fried it, but it wasindicating that 10 amps were going out at the time I unplugged it...?

#41 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2011 - 07:05 AM

OH, I thought you were running one of those big 375 gallon tanks. If I am correct, the amps draw will drop once it "get's going" so that could be perfectly normal. Also, if the scrap steel is getting pretty nasty, that can drop the amp pull too.

#42 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2011 - 07:15 AM

:ditto:Try cleaning off the electrodes down to bare metal.

#43 DMF OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2011 - 08:44 AM

Yah, I planned to clean the tank this weekend to give it a try again. I don't think it's an amp drop "once it gets going". When I was using it the first weekend, it stayed at 10 amps from when I plugged it in to when I unplugged it. Now, after sitting for a week, I plug it in and it hums but the amp needle doesn't move. I'm sure it's not still "going" because it had been turned off for a week. When it's going it bubbles and stuff; I see no movement of the water, etc. now... :(

#44 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2011 - 08:48 PM

That is pretty normal... once the chemical reaction is finished, and the rust converted, there is no longer the mad rush of action like at first. Try cleaning the rods, and placing something nice and nasty in there.

(Or do the old "knock the cables together and see if they spark" routine




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