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My MF 10 restore/rebuild


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#16 DMF OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2011 - 12:08 PM

Isn't there a couple of places that sell the rings for the engines?


I tried partstree.com, Pats came back stating that the model number isn't in their system.

#17 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2011 - 12:14 PM

Here is the page on parts tree that has all of the HH100's listed: Parts and Diagrams for Tecumseh ES12-4-33835

You will have to measure the bore of the cylinder to make sure you get the right rings. Are you sure the points need replaced? You can probably just clean them up and go to an auto parts store like napa and have them match up a condenser that is the same size.

#18 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2011 - 12:16 PM

Actually here is a better link for all of the HH100's models that parts tree shows: Partstree.com - Genuine replacement parts for Toro, Echo, Husqvarna, Cub Cadet, Troy Bilt, Lawn Boy (Lawnboy), lawn equipment (lawn mowers, saws, blowers, trimmers, snow blowers) and Tecumseh, Kohler and Briggs and Stratton Engines.

#19 DMF OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2011 - 12:18 PM

Thanks George. Mine is a model HH-100-115033A; their chart starts with a "C". I'm not sure what the differences are...?

#20 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2011 - 12:28 PM

I don't know what the letter reference means. All of the ones I took a quick glance at had the SSI coil on them. Like I mentioned earlier, I would get a bore measurement so you know what size rings you need. The ones I linked to on ebay that guy has them listed as being 3" and the model numbers I looked at in partstree were showing 3 5/16" for the standard bore size. So I don't know which one is right or wrong or if they are both wrong.

I would also check your points, they may just need cleaned up and more then likely are in good shape. You can match up the condenser to another one at the auto parts store, that is what we did with dad's wisconsin in his Bolens 1053.

#21 DMF OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2011 - 12:35 PM

Parts tree gave me the p/n for the ring set I need and I did find a NOS set on eBay. A woman who works for me, bought a house 2 years ago. Apparently, the previous owner was a small engine repair guy. My buddy bought all the stock that was in her garage and there is a ton of it. Right now it is in boxes but we are going to look through the Tecumsah boxes this evening. If that doesn't work, I'll call my old Massey dealer and see if he has any NOS around....it's amazing sometimes what he does have so I may luck out there as well.

Points and condensor aren't my biggest concern yet mainly because of what you mentioned....I'm sure we can get something to work. The worst part(s) of the whole engine are the rings and the carb. It now looks like the rings are obtainable and there is a carb kit offered. I think I'll have a better idea as to what I need vs. what I'm in trouble with after this weekend.

#22 DMF OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2011 - 07:17 AM

Great progress on the parts search. I was sick as a dog with this head cold this weekend but I managed to look through my buddy's NOS supply of Tecumseh parts and found the seals, condensor, air cleaner element, and head gasket. My dealer had the rings in stock and the remaining gaskest and carb kit are on order. I also picked up the flint grey spray cans from him. The points were found on e-bay and ordered as well.

My father-in-law has the motor completely torn down and cleaned and will begin reassembly as soon as the remaining parts are in!

#23 jscam OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2011 - 04:44 PM

We have a place called Atwoods here in Okla. (a lot like Tractor Supply) and they keep Flint Metallic in the spray can in stock.........Van Sickle paint...........( I used the same on my Case) If you dont have an Atwood's.............you can get it from Van Sickle's web site I believe.

#24 DMF OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2011 - 08:43 AM

Well, I got some more done this weekend. I focused mainly on tearing down the '66. Got the sheetmetal mostly removed, engine out, and aluminum dash removed. I can't believe all the springs on this thing! MF's are far more complicated than any IH Cub Cadet I've worked on, that's for sure!

I plan to use the '66 frame, front axle, rear axle, and aluminum dash; everything else will come from the '67. I hope the steering wheel comes off the '67 because the one on the '66 came off in pieces. It was badly cracked to begin with and I really didn't plan to re-use it but it did not want to come off; in fact, it's not completely off yet.

Has anyone removed the pulley assembly directly beneath the varidrive arm? How in the world does that come off?
dissassembly day one 007.jpg
Thanks!
Rich

dissassembly day one 009.jpg

Just starting out. This one even had an MF battery still in it! :rolleyes:



dissassembly day one 014.jpg

End of the day: a pile of parts and a lot more to go...:(

motormetalpainted1.jpg

My gaskets for the engine and carb kit did not come in so we could not reassemble the motor. Painted up some of the engine sheet metal though!

Attached Thumbnails

  • dissassembly day one 015.jpg
  • dissassembly day one 003.jpg


#25 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2011 - 08:45 AM

The slotted bolt on the varidrive pulley is reverse thread. Might have to make a custom screwdriver to fit it better so not to strip the head of it. Great progress :D
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#26 DMF OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2011 - 10:03 AM

Wow, glad you told me it was a reverse thread! I have a bad feeling about trying to get that off....

#27 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2011 - 10:10 AM

Wow, glad you told me it was a reverse thread! I have a bad feeling about trying to get that off....


With how rusted it looks it probably definitely won't be easy. Start soaking it with pb blaster, the other tool that would probably come in hand but I don't know the name of it is, it is like a screw driver, you hit the end of it with a hammer and it rotates, almost like an impact but not as powerful. Having a bit that fits nice and snug and spreads the load out all the way across the slot is going to be your best friend. I would see if you can get the one off the donor tractor first. That way you know whether or not you are going to have a spare. If you end up having a spare and you strip the head off the bolt you could always weld a nut to the head of it to remove it.

#28 ryanp OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2011 - 12:27 PM

With how rusted it looks it probably definitely won't be easy. Start soaking it with pb blaster, the other tool that would probably come in hand but I don't know the name of it is, it is like a screw driver, you hit the end of it with a hammer and it rotates, almost like an impact but not as powerful. Having a bit that fits nice and snug and spreads the load out all the way across the slot is going to be your best friend. I would see if you can get the one off the donor tractor first. That way you know whether or not you are going to have a spare. If you end up having a spare and you strip the head off the bolt you could always weld a nut to the head of it to remove it.


It's called a Posi-Drive screw driver lol

#29 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2011 - 12:31 PM

It's called a Posi-Drive screw driver lol


Ya, .... what he said :p

#30 ryanp OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2011 - 06:55 PM

also known as an impact screw driver




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