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Cleaning the nuts and bolts.


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#46 kb0nly OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2011 - 06:47 PM

SS bolts would be the last option for me. I would rather use some plated or galvanized bolts first. I have had to take things apart where the previous owner thought SS bolts were better because they don't rust, but they seize up faster then you can imagine. I usually end up grabbing a pair of long breaker bars and just snapping them all off to remove them. If i can't get enough torque on them i will heat with a torch until i can just twist them off or just cut them off with a chisel.

I have also had SS bolts seize up while trying to tighten them...

#47 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2011 - 05:44 AM

Great topic and timely for me as I have a bunch of nasty fasteners off my MF12 to do something with. Since I'm "cooking" some parts now, I rigged up some ideas and put some of them in for some R&D about an hour ago. Hopefully by 5-6 PM, I'll have the results.------LeeB



I pulled these misc. fasteners out of the e-tank after only 10 hrs. Some results are very encouraging, some not. My preliminary conclusion is that this method is best tried with a large batch of parts. Like most, my usual method is the brush wheel, which can be tedious with dozens of bolts. I'm experimenting here with a couple of "non-standard" methods that need explanation.
1) I'm usuing a clean, and metal can for (+) that I've coarse sanded the interior to determine whether 360 degree "line-of-site" had any benefit, plus the cans
were only $2.
2) For the bolt "tray", I bent a sample piece of stressed metal with some bolts stuck thru the gaps and some just lying on the lower "shelf.
3) For hangars: New and clean 16 gauge uncoated steel wire.
I don't think the pics are clear enough to tell, but I looped the wire in half, with the loop then clamped in a vise. Then alternating one to the other, strung the females
(nuts and washers) onto the wires about 1 1/2" apart. I then chucked the tag ends into a drill and spun them snug. This held each tightly apart and gave good electrical continuity.

The results were somewhat surprising because the internal threads of some of the nuts actually came clean, which I did not expect. Some of the parts were hardly changed.

Had I left them longer and separated the male and females (hang the washer string separately) I think the results would be better.

I hope this helps fuel some ideas.
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#48 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2011 - 06:35 AM

Muriatic acid works OK but as said above be careful, bolts etc come out great after a while of soaking. I have a small plastic jar with a tight lid and will put the bolts in this with some MA and shake it around.

I used muriatic acid a long time ago for a metal lamp project I was doing but I can't remember do you have to neutralize it after using it ? It doesn't clean grease off does it ? Thanks , Al

#49 markdombroski OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2011 - 02:20 AM

Sandblasting with glass beads works pretty good and quick too. However, it is best to de-grease the hardware before blasting. Additionally, you can thread a zip strip through a bunch of nuts and create a closed loop. This allows you to hold these small parts without losing them into the sand below. There are also semi-enclosed grated trays to place smaller hardware in while blasting.
  • Alc said thank you




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