Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Cleaning the nuts and bolts.


  • Please log in to reply
48 replies to this topic

#31 ckjakline ONLINE  

ckjakline

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 6073
  • 1,080 Thanks
  • 1,094 posts
  • Location: Lititz,Pa

Posted December 10, 2011 - 08:48 PM

I use that also, but I've only ever used it to remove the Zinc off of galvanized stuff that I plan on welding. So you say it takes rust off .....hmmmmmm!

While I was working on the 1978 Bolens G11XL, I came across several bolts, all of them 1/4-20, that had a raised lip around the O.D. of the hex portion and an "MF" in raised letters in the recessed well on top. I thought it was maybe a brand or manufacturer for the bolts themselves. Maybe when I get it dug out, I'll shoot some pics for you guys to take a look at.

I also thought that the mf stood for massey ferguson but i found mf stamped on some other bolts on other tractors.I think that is the initials of the manufacture.I think it was a sears i found them on.

#32 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

johndeereelfman

    Elfin Majic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3761
  • 5,480 Thanks
  • 2,535 posts
  • Location: Lititz, PA

Posted December 10, 2011 - 09:13 PM

I use all new Stainless Steel hardware on my restorations. Nothing personal guys, but I hate to see painted bolts, washers, and nuts. The new, unpainted hardware, to me, looks more like a professional restoration. Just my opinion, and hope there's no hard feelings!

#33 caseguy OFFLINE  

caseguy

    Connoisseur of Rusty Junk

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 906
  • 1,624 Thanks
  • 5,600 posts
  • Location: Edinburg, PA

Posted December 10, 2011 - 09:36 PM

I use all new Stainless Steel hardware on my restorations. Nothing personal guys, but I hate to see painted bolts, washers, and nuts. The new, unpainted hardware, to me, looks more like a professional restoration. Just my opinion, and hope there's no hard feelings!


That's part of the privilege of ownership Troy! When it's yours, the only person you have to please is you!
  • johndeereelfman said thank you

#34 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,653 Thanks
  • 29,841 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted December 10, 2011 - 10:16 PM

I use all new Stainless Steel hardware on my restorations. Nothing personal guys, but I hate to see painted bolts, washers, and nuts. The new, unpainted hardware, to me, looks more like a professional restoration. Just my opinion, and hope there's no hard feelings!


It can sure get expensive on the SS hardware. I put over $75 just in SS for my Bush Hog D4-10 restoration, and I only used SS where it showed the most. But to be true, a restoration uses only original hardware.....but I'm not that much a purist. Heck, I'm not a purist at all! LOL

#35 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

jpackard56

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7225
  • 1,768 Thanks
  • 1,407 posts
  • Location: S.E. Ohio

Posted December 11, 2011 - 07:05 AM

I use all new Stainless Steel hardware on my restorations. Nothing personal guys, but I hate to see painted bolts, washers, and nuts. The new, unpainted hardware, to me, looks more like a professional restoration. Just my opinion, and hope there's no hard feelings!

I agree SS looks nice :) My concern is what happens when you need a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt for the application? Seems like most everything on my Cubs is a grade 5 bolt.

#36 Michiganmobileman OFFLINE  

Michiganmobileman

    Old Tractor Addict

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5678
  • 1,235 Thanks
  • 1,842 posts
  • Location: Barryton, Michigan

Posted December 11, 2011 - 08:05 AM

A couple of comments, so my four cents worth:smilewink:
Muriatic acid works OK but as said above be careful, bolts etc come out great after a while of soaking. I have a small plastic jar with a tight lid and will put the bolts in this with some MA and shake it around. Thought I would clean some rust off of a 4 inch adjustable wrench a few years ago. Put it in my jar, sloshed it around, figured I would let it soak some....OOPS... forgot about it and a few days later the wrench body was there but the adjustment wheel was gone. BE CAREFUL

Stainless steel bolts. I was at The Marina where we bought our pontoon(10 years old now) this fall to get winterizing supplies. Had a broken SS bolt on one of our seats that I needed to get. They had a whole selection of bolts, nuts and washers, and were a lot cheaper than the ones I bought last year for my snowblower liner. Worth a check if you are looking for SS and have a local Boat Marina or dealership.
  • Texas Deere and Horse, johndeereelfman and Toolpartzman have said thanks

#37 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

IamSherwood

    Elf guardian

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2066
  • 8,379 Thanks
  • 7,696 posts
  • Location: Northern Ontario

Posted December 11, 2011 - 08:24 AM

Another thing to consider about SS bolts, is their strength. They are considerably weaker than a standard steel bolt. I think about 1/2 shear, and tensile.
I researched this,for some reason, a while ago, and was really suprised

#38 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

skyrydr2

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5032
  • 3,418 Thanks
  • 3,165 posts
  • Location: Gardner, Massachusetts!

Posted December 11, 2011 - 08:47 AM

I personally don't like to use stainless because it's not as tough ,But it does work very well for attaching plastics and doesnt bleed if it gets wet. Zinc plated works plenty good, and I can get about any grade imaginable too. I do like stainless pins though for attachments . :thumbs:

#39 Gary400 OFFLINE  

Gary400

    JD,junkie

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2316
  • 225 Thanks
  • 768 posts
  • Location: North East Missouri

Posted December 11, 2011 - 08:52 AM

I use all new Stainless Steel hardware on my restorations. Nothing personal guys, but I hate to see painted bolts, washers, and nuts. The new, unpainted hardware, to me, looks more like a professional restoration. Just my opinion, and hope there's no hard feelings!


just to add ,i deal with s/s bolts and nuts 5 days a week and if you dont use anti-seize on them 1 out of 3 will gald up and you have to cut them off . i cant count the time that i never even got the nut tight and it locked on the bolt .

#40 Gary400 OFFLINE  

Gary400

    JD,junkie

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2316
  • 225 Thanks
  • 768 posts
  • Location: North East Missouri

Posted December 11, 2011 - 09:07 AM

here is a S/S bolt chart that might come in handy . there are hard S/S bolts also .

ASTM Specifications | ASTM Specs and Standards for Bolts

#41 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

Toolpartzman

    Fun With Horsepower

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 7171
  • 468 Thanks
  • 1,280 posts
  • Location: Little Rock,AR

Posted December 11, 2011 - 10:55 AM

Great topic and timely for me as I have a bunch of nasty fasteners off my MF12 to do something with. Since I'm "cooking" some parts now, I rigged up some ideas and put some of them in for some R&D about an hour ago. Hopefully by 5-6 PM, I'll have the results.------LeeB

#42 Salatino OFFLINE  

Salatino

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1100
  • 29 Thanks
  • 188 posts
  • Location: Cincinnati ohio

Posted December 11, 2011 - 03:18 PM

I dont think cleanin the nuts & bolts is that bad of a job, if there greasy I toss them in a jar with paint thinner shake them around a lil and dry then blow them off with air. I've got a fine wire wheel on my bench grinder that works great, I dont think I would do it any other way. thats just my opinion. only problem i have is the smaller they are ,the more you burn your fingers, once ina while they go flyin acrost the garage

#43 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,459 Thanks
  • 6,629 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted December 11, 2011 - 03:32 PM

[QUOTE]I've got a fine wire wheel on my bench grinder that works great, I dont think I would do it any other way. thats just my opinion. only problem i have is the smaller they are ,the more you burn your fingers, once ina while they go flyin acrost the garage [QUOTE]
Yep when your finger hits the wire wheel it takes about 20 years to get you finger print sort of back to normal , Al:blush2::blush2:

#44 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted December 11, 2011 - 04:03 PM

I always thought that the MF on bolts was a Massey logo. My MF8 had a lot of those bolts. I cleaned them all up and painted them. I replaced the generic ones. I used the grinder and wheel method as well. Hard on the fingers at times.

#45 Michiganmobileman OFFLINE  

Michiganmobileman

    Old Tractor Addict

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5678
  • 1,235 Thanks
  • 1,842 posts
  • Location: Barryton, Michigan

Posted December 11, 2011 - 05:24 PM

[quote name='Alc'][QUOTE]I've got a fine wire wheel on my bench grinder that works great, I dont think I would do it any other way. thats just my opinion. only problem i have is the smaller they are ,the more you burn your fingers, once ina while they go flyin acrost the garage [QUOTE]
Yep when your finger hits the wire wheel it takes about 20 years to get you finger print sort of back to normal , Al:blush2::blush2:[/QUOTE]
I am guessing that is personal experience speaking??? OUCH




Top