Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

finally got spark ...then BANG ...BANG


  • Please log in to reply
64 replies to this topic

#46 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,703 Thanks
  • 17,209 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted April 26, 2015 - 10:37 AM

trowel ... I seem to have misplaced the link to that wonderful website about ignitions .

thanks for the tips and info . so I can use an external coil without sending the flywheel back to briggs for re-polarization ?

my thought was to buy one mag and if one motor was junk I could use it on the next (until I run out of junk motors to test lol )

I know what you mean about being impressed and feeling powerful !!!!  thats me when I used my belly grader :beerchug:

 

If your not looking for something original you can just add a 12vt coil with an on/off toggle switch, of course you will then need a battery to keep the engine powered.


  • alec said thank you

#47 trowel OFFLINE  

trowel

    Summer.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5127
  • 4,819 Thanks
  • 4,533 posts
  • Location: ma.

Posted April 26, 2015 - 10:52 AM

the kohler carb is cake to rebuild compared to the briggs . hahaha

Carter carbs are my fav next to the old Walboros off Winnies, simple, well designed and parts still around, new and old.

 

Someday i would like to try the Walboro carb with the side shaft throttle lever (forget model # right now) on the Briggs CI long block with a longer gov rod, the flowjunk is a very good carb in it's own right but liken to the cast Zenith so prevalent on the Fordsons and Ford 8 and 9 tractors and a royal pain in the butt at times. Up draft carbs require tight gaskets and all the I's dotted and T's crossed to work right.

 

Trouble with float bowl side draft carbs with the stamped steel bowl is the float bowl gaskets and the steel rusts adding to the pains, a hint to rebuilding those kinds while I am on the computer waiting for a reply from my parts man is after sanding the float bowl, coat it in Red Kote fuel tank liner, inside and out, matter of fact coat the outside of the carb with it also, it protects it and you never have to worry about peeling paint and the carb looking nasty after a few months. The move towards pot metal cast bowls was a huge step forwards IMO, the Jap's Mikuni carbs along with others has always had this cast bowl feature.

 

Here is the link to the website : http://www.google.co....91665533,d.b2w

 

Hopefully it will work. Battery ignition does away with the flywheel magnets, it therefore becomes a counterweight. The points controls the spark with that set up, the website explains how to do the very simple conversion. I figured this will help you bench test the engine to exclude the probability of bad coils, once the engine it tip top then a known-to-be-good coil can be thrown in saving from having to remove the engine from the tractor which is a pain when compared with some GTs of the same age.


Edited by trowel, April 26, 2015 - 10:55 AM.

  • alec said thank you

#48 alec OFFLINE  

alec
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61353
  • 382 Thanks
  • 412 posts
  • Location: oregon

Posted April 26, 2015 - 11:03 AM

oh I get it ! the battery powers the coil instead if the motor .



#49 alec OFFLINE  

alec
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61353
  • 382 Thanks
  • 412 posts
  • Location: oregon

Posted April 26, 2015 - 11:10 AM

trowel... so if the float was leaky would the red coat seal it up ?

also that means I could bench test the motor in the tractor maybe ?( external coil )

the site works thank you I am off to get my side panels and manuals and look at a couple more tractors ( I know I know hahaha ) will check it out when I get back .


  • trowel said thank you

#50 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,703 Thanks
  • 17,209 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted April 26, 2015 - 11:13 AM

Its very easy to do a bench test with external coil, here's one I kind of threw together a few years ago to test a wisconsin, had a battery and some jumper cables :D

 

All you need is a ground and connection from the coil  to the points


  • trowel and alec have said thanks

#51 trowel OFFLINE  

trowel

    Summer.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5127
  • 4,819 Thanks
  • 4,533 posts
  • Location: ma.

Posted April 26, 2015 - 11:19 AM

You got it, requiring a good battery. This is temporary, if you chose to run the engine with the external coil and battery a resistor is to be put inline so it does not burn out the points over time. Like I said, temporary until the engine is 100 % then you can replace everything with new parts and decide which direction you would like to head in.

 

Pop off the head, careful not to damage the head gasket and check the valves for tightness. Look at the top of the piston for wet oil, if so then this means piston rings in the future. If the carbon is black, hard with whit around the exhaust valve then there is a chance the rings are good for now. Scrap off all the carbon build up, don't scratch up the piston top, scrap off the combustion chamber in the head (don't scratch t up!). While the head is off, put your fist into the bore and push down on the piston until BDC, then using your free hand wiggle the crank back and forth flopping the rod back and forth a bit feeling for play between the con-rod and crank. This is a quick test, a lot of slop will result clicking and movement and a no go and far as running, a slight play means rebuild in the future, no play with smoothness means it is 100 %. While the piston is down look at the bore for scratches and piston skirt wear (streaks) Run your fingers around the bore, if the scratches are felt then it is a oil burner and require a hone or overbore.

 

Start with the basics, don't worry too much about the bore for now, just the crank/rod play and get the engine running first, then come back here and post the results.

 

Now stop talking to us and get at it !!!! :thumbs:


  • alec said thank you

#52 trowel OFFLINE  

trowel

    Summer.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5127
  • 4,819 Thanks
  • 4,533 posts
  • Location: ma.

Posted April 26, 2015 - 11:21 AM

trowel... so if the float was leaky would the red coat seal it up ?

 

No, just to keep it from corroding and the steel bowl from rusting out, originally the steel bowls were coated but the eithanol mixed with our gas eats through the old factory liner rusting them out very quickly.

 

A good bowl to carb body gasket is required to solve the leaks.


Edited by trowel, April 26, 2015 - 11:22 AM.

  • alec said thank you

#53 alec OFFLINE  

alec
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61353
  • 382 Thanks
  • 412 posts
  • Location: oregon

Posted April 26, 2015 - 01:48 PM

thanks guys !!! great stuff ! I love this place goin to get the rest of my tractors and will get busy !!  :worshippy1:


  • trowel said thank you

#54 trowel OFFLINE  

trowel

    Summer.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5127
  • 4,819 Thanks
  • 4,533 posts
  • Location: ma.

Posted April 26, 2015 - 01:58 PM

Hey, drive safe, strap them down tight and see you in a few.


  • alec said thank you

#55 alec OFFLINE  

alec
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61353
  • 382 Thanks
  • 412 posts
  • Location: oregon

Posted April 28, 2015 - 11:43 AM

made it back alive !! the po drug the one with the vickers through the wet grass :mad2: . I  put it in neutral and pushed it on to the trailer  .

got the B110 running after hookin up the mag wire that was cut and some points . the clutch/brake was rusted solid and I got it free (not free enough ! ) and popped a dang wheely . live and learn I geuss


  • trowel said thank you

#56 trowel OFFLINE  

trowel

    Summer.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5127
  • 4,819 Thanks
  • 4,533 posts
  • Location: ma.

Posted April 28, 2015 - 04:46 PM

. the clutch/brake was rusted solid and I got it free (not free enough ! ) and popped a dang wheely . live and learn I geuss

:thumbs: got some grunt, right !


  • alec said thank you

#57 alec OFFLINE  

alec
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61353
  • 382 Thanks
  • 412 posts
  • Location: oregon

Posted April 28, 2015 - 05:36 PM

:thumbs: got some grunt, right !

ha ! I'll say ! need some friggin wheely bars


  • trowel and Dayton_King have said thanks

#58 alec OFFLINE  

alec
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61353
  • 382 Thanks
  • 412 posts
  • Location: oregon

Posted May 03, 2015 - 01:21 AM

I'm most familiar with Kohler K series. A man once told me that the surest way to set timing was with a jumper test light and the timing mark. The light shows the exact time the points open, which should be the moment the timing mark aligns. Does the Briggs have a timing mark?

that I do not know but am about to find out .



#59 trowel OFFLINE  

trowel

    Summer.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5127
  • 4,819 Thanks
  • 4,533 posts
  • Location: ma.

Posted May 03, 2015 - 04:00 AM

Briggs model 23 with Magnematic ignition system,

 

 

There is no spark advance on the 23. The weight works to slightly open the exhaust valve on the compression stroke, making it easier to start the engine. As speed increases, the valve de-compression lift decreases, giving full action of the exhaust valve. If the return spring breaks or is missing, valve action will be erratic.
The shaft that comes through the engine block into the external points/condenser box and hooks to the points, has an integral shoe on the opposite end that is moved by the camgear weight. When the engine is started (low rpms) the weight is held in by a spring. As the rpm are increased the centrifical force overcomes the spring and moves the weight outward, pushing the shoe, which rotates the shaft slightly to advance the timing. when rpms decrease the spring retracts the weight to retard timing. This feature makes for easy starting for a 9hp. No kickbacks & sprained fingers. Also no backfiring thru carb when accelerating.

 

Coil/mag conversion if you want to try, from KD Redd, may he rest in peace : http://www.google.co...eQjkygCAUebQEuw


Edited by trowel, May 03, 2015 - 04:02 AM.

  • alec said thank you

#60 alec OFFLINE  

alec
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61353
  • 382 Thanks
  • 412 posts
  • Location: oregon

Posted June 04, 2015 - 06:41 PM

UPDATE TO BANG BANG

got the head off . exhaust valve was stuck hard . I sprayed it lightly tapped it for about twoand a half hours . the number of taps it took to get down finally started to decrease . then It started dropping about halfway down then 1/4 ..1/8.. two taps ..one tap..one tap..one tap after doing that for a while I started rotating the valve back and forth and around and up and down but still having to tap it half the time . finnally got it to go on its own all the way around ( rotating little by little ) I noticed it would sometimes ( in the sticky spots ) rotate slightly as it went up or down . cleaned up the head and block put on a new gasket torqued it down to specs and fired it up . it started fine ran for a bit blowing the oil and spray lube I kept spraying at it all day then popped puffed and died . took the head off untuck the valve messed with it some more then reinstalled head and tried again . fired up again ran for a bit , not smoking then again pop puff dead . took head off again pushed down the valve with my finger got it all the way up and rotated it a bunch . put the head on . this time it ran great then started smoking as it started heating up so I shut it down .

 

could I have to much oil in it ? I pulled the oil plug and it didnt spill out and didnt look or smell bad .is the valve sticking because of the heat . any thoughts , suggestions , orders ? I am all ears ( eyes )   :help:


  • classic said thank you




Top