Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay

- - - - -

More box blade questions

  • Please log in to reply
4 replies to this topic

#1 glgrumpy ONLINE  


    Getting Out!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 8360
  • 8,743 Thanks
  • 7,982 posts
  • Location: Huntington, IN 46750 North East in State

Posted April 23, 2015 - 01:19 PM

Northern Tool has ads for Brinley Hardy Box blade. It is only 38" and seems kinda light. Has teeth, most said in adds they lowered them to be more effective. Has place to put on a cement block for weight. Sleeve hitch only. That would not cover width of my tractor tires, so not so sure it would work for me. I DO have a Speeco Rear Blade, plenty heavy, not sure on width, but close to 48" I think and it never gets used, just setting around getting rusty. I'm wondering if would be best to just add sides and some structure to it, make holder for teeth which can be made or bought and turn it into a box. BUT, wondering if it works to have BOLT-ON parts, so could remove if I didn't like or want and still have blade?  Would have to curve side plates to match blade and add tabs for it to bolt onto? OR, maybe better to pass back farther on blade sides and add the tabs to the blade for sides to bolt to? What think? Couple of braces from front cross-bar to the back of blade to bolt up, would think it would hold up pretty good. The whole front structure with the tooth bracket and cross-pieces would all be welded up and come off as whole assembly then, that should keep it strong would think. What say? Might have to set up blade, make some patterns and see what I come up with.


Forgot to say would be 3pt this way too, much more easier to use on other tractors.

Edited by glgrumpy, April 23, 2015 - 01:20 PM.

#2 tater195 ONLINE  


    I dont deny your history..... dont deny mine

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62468
  • 2,261 Thanks
  • 1,440 posts

Posted April 23, 2015 - 02:59 PM

I put bolt on side wings on a CC front blade by adding a flange on the ends. I traced the curve and cut with a plasma cutter. If you dont have a good way to cut steel like that, you could do short sections of angle, or the more time consuming way... a bunch of hacksaw cuts on the inside of the arc then bend to fit and weld back up. 

Angled and sharpened #6 rebar should work good for diggers. The storebought teeth arent that expensive when you figure in fab time

#3 GWest OFFLINE  



  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 130
  • 554 Thanks
  • 505 posts

Posted April 23, 2015 - 03:06 PM

What about welding 3 or 4 coupling nuts each side to the back side of the blade and bolt the side plates to them. The curve of the blade would make the side plates very stable if they are thick enough. I often cut the coupling nuts in half which is sufficient but still more than a regular nut.



Edited by GWest, April 23, 2015 - 03:06 PM.

#4 greenb69 OFFLINE  

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 65681
  • 270 Thanks
  • 210 posts

Posted April 23, 2015 - 03:48 PM

I have one of the brinly box blades and you are better off building one. By the time you beef up the brinly to stay together and work, you can build one. Brinly says good for light work, believe them.

#5 boyscout862 ONLINE  

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8923
  • 13,446 Thanks
  • 9,392 posts
  • Location: N.E. Connecticut

Posted April 23, 2015 - 04:59 PM

A modified rear grader blade came with my LGT145. It is a Ford brand with wood blocks on each side, an angle iron across the front with cultivator points bolted to the angle using cable clamps. Good Luck, Rick


SD530829.JPG SD530830.JPG SD530831.JPG SD530832.JPG


BTW with a bunch of weight on it he blew out the hydraulic lift on the LGT145.

Edited by boyscout862, April 23, 2015 - 05:02 PM.