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Bolens GT2000 power, engine surging


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#1 talex OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2015 - 01:14 PM

HI all,

 

Recently picked up a Bolens GT2000 - seems in really nice condition, the issue's I see on it are that the steering is a little sloppy and the engine seems to lack power and surges on it's own. So far I put new plugs in it and a fuel filter, changed the oil - filled with premium ethonol  with Seafoam added - none of that changed to much. The old plugs looked that perfect carmel you want them to look like when I pulled them, she might puff smoke on startup on occasion or when gunning it and it never seems to idle as fast as it could when set to full throttle...

 

I am hoping it does not need a rebuild or repower (I called a couple local places here in SE WISC and they don't work on older ones other than tune up stuff) and I have yet to find a replacement motor in case that's what it would need - but I am hoping maybe some of you fine folks can offer me some other thing to try - I have limited mechanical ability, I can do things like changing plugs, brakes - stuff like that - I would be comfortable swapping the motor as long as the replacement did not need modification as I do not have machining tools, I have rebuilt a top end of an ATV but that was pretty easy with no timing stuff to mess with.

 

So I guess I am asking a few questions.

 

1. Any suggestions to tighten up the steering?

2. Any suggestions to try to fix the surging / lack of power it is having that I have not tried yet?

3. Anywhere to get it rebuilt if needed? I looked online and the usual places do not offer a direct swap motor.

4. Other options?

 

It has a real nice loader on it so I am hoping to get this worked out as I think it will be a great little tractor for me.

 

Any and all help greatly appreciated,

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#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2015 - 01:22 PM

That's a great looking Tractor!

 

Amost 90% of rough engine running / power problems can be traced back to the carburetor. Have you ever taken it apart and given it a good cleaning? I would think most of your problems can be fixed by a simple carb adjustment and cleaning


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#3 Rainier OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2015 - 02:02 PM

I agree the carbs on these are very simple. Give it a good cleaning and readjust. That should fix your problem.
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#4 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2015 - 03:12 PM

Hello , welcome ,nice looking Duratrac. Surging: did you check the condition of your air filter ? Surging is usually a fuel to air mixture problem , usually. As mentioned here a carb cleaning and or adjustment may be in order. You may have to give the seafoam a bit of time to work , run the gas thru it let it run or run it around for a good while. I've had good luck with 'Mechanic in a Bottle' fuel and carb cleaner. Surging can also be an governor issue as well.

How many hours on your tractor, it has or should have an hour meter, the puffs of smoke could mean it's running a little rich or it could be a little oil blow by ,a compression test may be in order.

Your tractor has power steering , the Duratracs are actually a bit on the tight side meaning a little more muscle to turn them , (IMO owning one and comparing it to my other PS units). Put the bucket down lift the front wheels and check where the steering slops at , tie rod ball joints, steering shaft knuckle? Try to narrow it down some more so we can be of more help. AND check with are site sponsors they have the knowledge to help and most likely the parts needed when repairs are in order.

Edited by WrenchinOnIt, April 23, 2015 - 03:16 PM.

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#5 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2015 - 03:36 PM

I own two of those tractors. The steering takes a bit to get used to. It really isn't power steering it's hydraulic steering. When you turn the steering wheel your just actuating a hydraulic valve.The difference being that yours has no mechanical link to the front wheels. Just a hydraulic cylinder. So when you turn your wheel there is a little lag before the front wheel respond to your input. If all the joints are tight then there isn't much to worry about. I'm willing to bet that your steering wheel doesn't always return to the same position either. That being said, once you get used to it your going to like it with the loader. I know I do.

I had no problems with either surging. I still have one of the engines that is left over from a diesel conversion that only has 450 hours on it.

I tend to agree with those who are directing you towards the carburetor. 



#6 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2015 - 06:50 PM

As others have stated,start off with the carb,but what concerns me is the power loss,those engines had governor issues,almost like governor not kicking in and bringing up the rpms,good luck,those are nice machines

#7 talex OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2015 - 02:37 PM

Thanks guys, I took the air filter off today and did as much as I could with it short of pulling the carb because if I am right wouldn't I need a gasket kit to re-assemble?

 

Anyways I poured seafoam in a few time just to the point she wanted to stall out (man that causes a ton of smoke!). I noticed the "governer"? bracket moving causing the surge - I experimented with different stuff with that  - changing where the spring went, bending the shaft between that and the throttle and although I don't have it perfect (it can still rev to high from the throttle knob, but I just put a tape for now where I think the throttle is high enough), I also had to put a spring on the throttle side to make sure it comes back down to idle when throttling it back down - it is running what I think is excellent now - no smoke, tons of power - I still need to tinker with that settings so the full range of the throttle knob can be used - forgive if wrong terms - I have never seen anything like that before and just did what seemed to make sense.

 

Next thing up is there is a dip stick under the seat, the fluid is is white? it's within specs but I think I see the drain plug for that - I assume that is transmission fluid? I need to figure out what that is and would like to change that out too just so I have a good starting point on all fluids... any help there greatly appreciated.

 

From what I gather there should be no need to change hydraulic fluids unless there is a problem?

 

The other thing I would like to do is identify the loader on it, previous owner said he thought it was an official Bolens attachment, but it looks similar to some kwik-way ones I saw when searching google, maybe I need to look closer for some type of markings...

 

As she sits right now though I could not be happier now that it's running good, I need to find a manual to figure out how to mount the deck which is like brand new as the person I bought it from said it was never mounted on the tractor in the 10+ years he owned it.


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#8 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2015 - 02:53 PM

Your hydro fluid, is it air or moisture that is making it white? 

I have not seen a loader like that before.

Good to hear that you have it running well.


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#9 talex OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2015 - 03:46 PM

Your hydro fluid, is it air or moisture that is making it white? 

I have not seen a loader like that before.

Good to hear that you have it running well.

 

I have no clue what would be making it white? Sounds like it really should be changed out if that is not normal - it does not affect the loader at all because that runs off the PTO - it has it's own pump - but if that's not normal then I guess I will have to figure out how to change the hydraulic fluid and what kind to put in, dip stick shows it is right where it should be... when I get something I really like to change all the fluids and the stuff that I at least can do so I can keep up with it and know where everything is at - in other words have a good starting point.


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#10 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2015 - 04:23 PM

Milky looking hydro fluid sounds like there's water in it.

 

I'd drain it, and put on a new filter and re-fill the hydro.


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#11 talex OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2015 - 04:54 PM

Milky looking hydro fluid sounds like there's water in it.

 

I'd drain it, and put on a new filter and re-fill the hydro.

 

I assume the drain plug is the one pretty much under the dip stick... mind if I ask does it need any specific type of fluid and do you just drain it like you would engine oil?

 

Thanks so much for your help so far.



#12 Mechanic15 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2015 - 09:04 PM

As far as the engine surging, I had that problem also and the problem ended up being the fuel pump. When the engine was hot, the fuel pump body expanded, allowing the check valves to partly fall out of the pump body. When the engine cooled down then the check valves would seat themselves back into the housing. I believe the mechanical pumping action pushed the valves back into place at least partly. I replaced the pump on the engine with an electric Walbro marine pump and also added a fuel pressure regulator. The engine runs perfectly and also uses less fuel, I assume because the governor is not constantly opening up the throttle to wide open to bring the rpm's back where they belong.

In the operators instruction book, if you read it word for word, there is a very brief sentence stating that the steering wheel will not always return to center. I'm sure that is not something that was used as a selling point.

Good Luck


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#13 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2015 - 11:48 AM

 

 

In the operators instruction book, if you read it word for word, there is a very brief sentence stating that the steering wheel will not always return to center. I'm sure that is not something that was used as a selling point.

I'll bet you got that right. When I got my first one this little quirk had me scratching my head until a neighbor who owns a full sized tractor with this type of steering explained it to me. He said when they start going bad you have to keep turning the wheel to go straight.  :(



#14 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2015 - 09:55 PM

As far as the engine surging, I had that problem also and the problem ended up being the fuel pump. When the engine was hot, the fuel pump body expanded, allowing the check valves to partly fall out of the pump body. When the engine cooled down then the check valves would seat themselves back into the housing.

 

I had that exact same problem and I've read quite a few similar complaints online.



#15 talex OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2015 - 10:32 AM

I dropped it off at a place to look at it, they did not seem very familiar with the motor though... just have to wait to hear from them.


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