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Massey MF10 / MF12 Peerless transmission shifter parts.


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#16 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2011 - 08:29 PM

Holly cow man that one is a rusty mess, I had 1 trany that had some water in it but not rusty like that one. The other one looks good, all the ones I saw inside 2nd gear seemed to have the most wear in rounded off corners on the gear but when engaged it lined up good on all of them. You can see what happens when the shifter is not right in the second the gear spot. I wouldn't worry to much about rounded off corners just fix the detent so that it's easier to get it lined up when driving the tractor.
The shifter stop, funny looking bent sheet metal piece, make sure that's not broken or rubbing on the ball of the shifter.
When I drive the Vari-Drive tractors I don't even bother using 2nd gear I find 3rd gear with V/D handle in position 1 is slow enough.

Edited by DH1, March 22, 2011 - 09:41 PM.
spelling


#17 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2011 - 08:36 PM

I use third gear all of the time, but third even on the 1 position on the variable seemed too fast for plowing the garden. I need to adjust the belt and readjust the variable drive to specs as I think mine slips some on the lower positions of the variable settings.

#18 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2011 - 09:05 PM

So what holds that detent spring in place? Does it slip into the fork from the inside and just uses the shaft to keep it in place? Is there a detent ball missing too? What's that little washer part?

Sorry to ask so much, I just need to do this to my 12-G once the Hydro is all done and I start to finish tearing apart the 12-G to finish it.

#19 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2011 - 09:11 PM

Wow, what a mess. Glad that's the spare unit & not the one you're trying to use!

Glad the detent problem will be relatively simple to get solved.

#20 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2011 - 09:39 PM

George, I sent you a PM

#21 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2011 - 05:40 AM

So what holds that detent spring in place? Does it slip into the fork from the inside and just uses the shaft to keep it in place? Is there a detent ball missing too? What's that little washer part?

Sorry to ask so much, I just need to do this to my 12-G once the Hydro is all done and I start to finish tearing apart the 12-G to finish it.


I will take some better pics of it tonight. Yes the spring and detent ball sit inside the slider/fork and the shaft is what holds it in place. There is a hole on the opposing side of the detent spring and ball in the fork, I am guessing it is to be able to insert a tool to keep the ball pressed down until you get the shaft in far enough to hold the ball on it's own. That little piece that looks like a washer is the one piece that broke from the spring. The ball is sitting on the plywood but I don't think I got a picture of it.
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#22 jscam OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2011 - 07:32 AM

This is great stuff........thanks for posting.........VERY timely for me as I'm also getting ready to split mine............

#23 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2011 - 08:02 AM

Doug guided me last fall when I tackled my 10v tranny.
I'd never tackled a tranny of any sort, so I was a bit apprehensive, but it
was a pc of cake with his help.
Hats off for being so helpfull.:urock:

That rusty tranny sure wasn't on any sort of maintenence program. What a mess.

#24 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2011 - 09:23 AM

Here are a couple of part numbers for those planning on doing this. My local John Deere dealer has it all in stock and I am picking it up after work. I also got two axle seals along with everything, will get those part numbers also after I pick the stuff up. I actually got the part numbers going on JD's site and looking them up but it will make for easier reference. I will also have all of the info once I do the article, as I think a how to article would come in handy since the Peerless transmission was used in quite a few models.

Here are the part numbers:
M40350 - Detent spring, will need two, only one per part number
M41048 - Shifter gasket
M41030 - Case gasket
M40676 - Axle seal (two required)
M41027 - O-ring (two required)

You don't need the gaskets as you could just use good rtv gasket maker but I figured they had them and they are not expensive at all. Total bill with the axle seals was $35.00

Edited by NUTNDUN, June 26, 2011 - 05:48 AM.

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#25 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2011 - 03:42 PM

Thanks for the #s the detent springs I replaced I made them from long universal type spring but I'm sure the right one would be better.

#26 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2011 - 06:51 PM

Thanks for the #s the detent springs I replaced I made them from long universal type spring but I'm sure the right one would be better.


I thought about making my own too. I have a bin full of assorted springs but I was worried I might not have the right tension. If the dealer wouldn't have had them in stock I probably would have made my own. I got the transmission back together. Still need to put it back on the tractor though. I will post pics here in a little bit and write up a little article on it this weekend maybe.

#27 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2011 - 07:24 PM

Ok here are the pics. I did one fork/slider at a time so I wouldn't mix anything up. When you pull the slider off of the shaft make sure you cover the ends so you don't loose the ball. I used an awl to insert the new spring into the hole and the spring sets down in just far enough that the ball will rest in the hole. I then used a center punch a couple sizes smaller then the access hole so there would be room to move it to the side as I inserted the shaft which would then hold the ball partially until I used a flat head screwdriver from the end to push the ball further down and allow the shaft to pass over it.

I cleaned up the gears so I could get some better pictures of the wear on them and to also try and show the assembly a little better. The fork sliders did have some wear from the shifter which to me is normal. I know someone mentioned other wear on the shaft but I didn't notice any one mine.

The axle seals on these things are extremely easy to replace since the collar comes out of the housing. I replaced the axle seal on the right side along with the o-ring and will do the left side tomorrow. I already assembled the cases back together but it is easy to remove the collar once the axle support housing is out of the way.

I used a razor blade to clean off the old gasket material and put the two dowel pins back in place on the lower case. Lowered the cover down over the axle and as it got closer I did have to tilt it a little bit like the manual showed for it to drop far enough to rest on the dowel pins. Once it was on the dowel pins I used my rubber mallet and slowly worked side to side, I had to rotate the axle just a little so the gears lined up and the cover dropped the rest of the way.


Here are all of the pieces I took out of the transmission:
DSC_0254.jpg


Here is a shot of the original spring which is broken in two pieces and the ball:
DSC_0248.jpg


Here is the original spring beside the new spring to show the comparison between the two.
DSC_0251.jpg


Here is a shot to show the spring and detent ball recess and access hole.
DSC_0249.jpg


I used an awl to insert the spring into the recess through the access hole.
DSC_0253.jpg


I used a center punch to push the ball down far enough to get the shaft to hold the ball, then used a straight screwdriver to hold the ball down further while pushing the shaft through the rest of the way.
DSC_0259.jpg


Here is some detail shots of the gears to show their wear.
DSC_0256.jpg
DSC_0258.jpg


Here are the gaskets and replacement parts:
DSC_0250.jpg


Here is the axle bushing that I pulled out to replace the axle seal along with the new seal in place.
DSC_0264.jpg


Couple pics of the gears and shift forks back in place:
DSC_0262.jpg


Put the cover back on the case with the new gasket and used the dowel pins to keep the gasket located.
DSC_0265.jpg


Transmission back together and also a shot of the shifter forks put in the neutral position before putting the gear shifter back on.
DSC_0267.jpg

Attached Thumbnails

  • DSC_0260.jpg
  • DSC_0268.jpg
  • DSC_0266.jpg
  • DSC_0261.jpg
  • DSC_0255.jpg
  • DSC_0263.jpg
  • DSC_0252.jpg
  • DSC_0257.jpg

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#28 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2011 - 10:41 PM

Excellent thread George.

#29 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2011 - 04:58 AM

Well no new pictures for this post. Just an update. I got the transmission installed back in the tractor and got it filled with oil. Got the belt put back on and the brake assembly. Just have to put the side covers and the seat pan back on. I want to paint the sleeve hitch that broken2 made me before the plow day. It kind of sucked having the tractor torn apart that far and not start on restoring it LOL.

One thing though that has crossed my mind since the tractor is sitting there all together other then the side panels and seat is it would look pretty good with a metal pan seat and arched seat spring. Make some round fenders for it. Would just have to come up with some good looking foot rests and a way that the pto could hook to it. I might end up doing this :D

#30 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2011 - 08:09 AM

Nice job George, Thanks for posting pictures of the rebuild.




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