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Modern Engine oil question

bolens wisconsin tra-10d 1050

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#16 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2015 - 11:31 AM

Most good small engine shops have straight 30 if they are worth their salt.

 

Ben W.

 

:ditto:


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#17 MrFixit1599 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2015 - 08:18 PM

Well, it smokes a little as well, so eventually I imagine the engine will need rebuilt.  It's not that bad a leak, and current finances and time are not in my favor for an engine rebuild at this time.  By this fall I will hopefully have a parts tractor with an engine so I can rebuild it, and have it ready to install next spring.



#18 MrFixit1599 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 01:01 AM

It's like a brand new tractor, or engine at least.  So I finally got around to replacing the head gasket on Saturday.  While I was in there I cleaned up all the deposits and other nasty crap.  Re-assembled everything and got it fired up, but didn't really use it on Saturday.  Today I mowed the yard with it, and it was like I had a 5 HP motor before, now I actually have 10.  Before I had to mow pretty much everything in L2, sometimes L3 if it was light, even down to L1 if it was really thick.  Today the grass level was L2 -L3 in the old tractor.  I did both yards, which usually takes 2 hours or so, in an hour.   Never had to take it out of H2.  I tried H3 but that didnt give it enough time to actually cut the grass.  It really is like I have a whole new tractor.  Wish I would have done this 2 years ago when I bought it.


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#19 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 07:23 AM

Most good small engine shops have straight 30 if they are worth their salt.

 

Ben W.

At $5 per quart/  No thanks.


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#20 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 07:35 AM

I heard that when switching to synthetic oil from regular oil you risk the synthetic cleaning the sludge and running it thru oil orifices that will not let sludge through, which blocks your lubrication, and destroying your engine. Just a word of caution... Not sure how true it is, but sounds really probable, so too risky for me.

#21 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 07:51 AM

For the amount of oil you go through in a year (1-2QT per machine) I have always used good quality oil in my machines especially on ones without oil pumps and filters. My grandfather would always wait for a good brand to go on sale then buy 15-20 cases at a time.

 

Now having my Business I sell and stock the Kohler universal engine oil and really like the blend they have.


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#22 sodisr OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 10:08 AM

Changing oil instead of just adding,, is cheap insurance...and satisfaction..  2 Qts. is cheap enough,,opposed to rebuild down the road..  I look at it this way,, I like the thicker oil in summer ( 30wt.)  and if it starts OK with  30wt. in winter  leave it.. It will warm up to engine temp and be the same....

 

                                                             Just my    2 cts.                                                           sodi


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#23 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 08:07 PM

At $5 per quart/  No thanks.

 

Don't forget, though, that air cooled engine oil that is made right (as in Stens, Kawasaki, Briggs, Kohler, etc) will have special additives (Zinc in particular) to help them run cooler and not burn as much oil. 

 

That is where a lot of your price comes in. 

 

Ben W.


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#24 adamjd200 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 08:20 PM

I have always been partial to Penzoil or Shell, Since oil went up so much in the last 4+ years I mostly buy Shell in the gallon jugs, if I found a place locally that had the shell 30w in 5gal buckets I would probably go that route. 



#25 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2015 - 08:24 PM

How would you know if those additives are in the oil ??? Noel.





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