Garden Tractor Forums banner

Modern Engine oil question

5K views 24 replies 15 participants last post by  propane1 
#1 ·
I have a Bolens 1050 that I bought a few years ago for $400 dollars with several attachments, weights, chains etc. Well, I had been using it year round and finally decided it was time to go through everything like I had when I first got it. Rear end play, lubrication, oil changes etc.

My question is, the manual calls for 3 different weights of oil depending on the season, SAE 30 for summer, 10W-30 for fall, 5W-20 for winter (I live in Wisonsin).

It seems to me that there should be a suitable modern oil that would work year round without having to change the oil 3 times a year.

On a side note it leaks oil around the head, so I replace oil frequently enough that I doubt I would ever have to actually change the oil, just change the oil I am adding to it. That will get addressed eventually.
 
#6 ·
I agree, 10w-30 or SAE 30 are both a good choice for year round use. I also agree that you should fix the leak and change the oil. Or at minimum change the oil at regular intervals.

Even though you are adding new oil often, the dirty sludge will still remain in the bottom of the engine. One thing to remember is that oil does not only lubricate these engines but it also acts as a coolant.

Good luck :thumbs:
 
#7 ·
Straight 30 weight oil is getting hard to find other than 30 gallon drums. Two brands I use to use, Northland and one other do not have it in anything less than 30 gallon any more. Go to the multi viscosity like 10W-30. If your concerned about getting to thin in hot weather add a cup of Lucas Oil Treatment. Used it all the time in my old 400 IH tractor and in the hydraulic system on the baler accumulator.
 
  • Like
Reactions: boyscout862
#8 ·
Straight 30 weight oil is getting hard to find other than 30 gallon drums. Two brands I use to use, Northland and one other do not have it in anything less than 30 gallon any more. Go to the multi viscosity like 10W-30. If your concerned about getting to thin in hot weather add a cup of Lucas Oil Treatment. Used it all the time in my old 400 IH tractor and in the hydraulic system on the baler accumulator.
Most good small engine shops have straight 30 if they are worth their salt.

Ben W.
 
#9 ·
I used to use 30 in summer 10w-30 in winter. I decided to go to 10w-30 all year. For some reasons, one is it's easier to buy almost any where, 30 is not, two, it is less expensive and three, one of my engine manuals said that, you can use 10w-30 year round, just check it more often. Noel.
 
  • Like
Reactions: boyscout862
#17 ·
Well, it smokes a little as well, so eventually I imagine the engine will need rebuilt. It's not that bad a leak, and current finances and time are not in my favor for an engine rebuild at this time. By this fall I will hopefully have a parts tractor with an engine so I can rebuild it, and have it ready to install next spring.
 
#18 ·
It's like a brand new tractor, or engine at least. So I finally got around to replacing the head gasket on Saturday. While I was in there I cleaned up all the deposits and other nasty crap. Re-assembled everything and got it fired up, but didn't really use it on Saturday. Today I mowed the yard with it, and it was like I had a 5 HP motor before, now I actually have 10. Before I had to mow pretty much everything in L2, sometimes L3 if it was light, even down to L1 if it was really thick. Today the grass level was L2 -L3 in the old tractor. I did both yards, which usually takes 2 hours or so, in an hour. Never had to take it out of H2. I tried H3 but that didnt give it enough time to actually cut the grass. It really is like I have a whole new tractor. Wish I would have done this 2 years ago when I bought it.
 
#20 ·
I heard that when switching to synthetic oil from regular oil you risk the synthetic cleaning the sludge and running it thru oil orifices that will not let sludge through, which blocks your lubrication, and destroying your engine. Just a word of caution... Not sure how true it is, but sounds really probable, so too risky for me.
 
#21 · (Edited by Moderator)
For the amount of oil you go through in a year (1-2QT per machine) I have always used good quality oil in my machines especially on ones without oil pumps and filters. My grandfather would always wait for a good brand to go on sale then buy 15-20 cases at a time.

Now having my Business I sell and stock the Kohler universal engine oil and really like the blend they have.
 
#23 ·
At $5 per quart/ No thanks.
Don't forget, though, that air cooled engine oil that is made right (as in Stens, Kawasaki, Briggs, Kohler, etc) will have special additives (Zinc in particular) to help them run cooler and not burn as much oil.

That is where a lot of your price comes in.

Ben W.
 
#25 ·
How would you know if those additives are in the oil ??? Noel.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top