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My first Cub.... help!

1250 hydrostatic help transmission motor mounts vibrations

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#1 I Carey No Cash OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2015 - 08:26 PM

I had been looking for a good deal on a cub cadet for years and finally found one this winter! I bought this 1250 from a co worker for $100 and as a bonus it came with a snow blower and a rusty old blade! He didn't know much about the tractor because he got if from someone else but he did know it hadent ran in over 5 or 6 years. The air filter, coil, points cover and a few body covers were missing but the motor was free. I don't have experience with cub cadets but am a machinist by trade and a gear head on the weekends, plus I have the Internet to teach me what I don't know! I bought a battery, coil, new plug and wire, checked the oil and had the carb rebuilt. I got it running for the first time today, what a racket! It shaked and rattled so bad I thought it was gonna jump out and run off! I let it idle for 10 minutes and it sounds good other than the vibration(probably just wore out motor mounts). Now the problem is it won't move. The forward/reverse lever is froze up. What should I do now, check for hydraulic/trans fluid? Take the pump off and rebuild? Transaxle? I could use some advice from a cub cadet pro..

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#2 diesel nut ONLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2015 - 09:38 PM

Nice machine and the snow blower looks to be in nice shape too.  I'd check the oil level in the rear end anyway to make sure its full.  Its a square plug on the back cover about 3/4 of the way up.  The oil should be just about to run out of the hole when the plug comes out.  As for the forward reverse lever being frozen is the brake pedal locked down?  They're set up so the lever returns to neutral and won't move when the pedal is pushed down.  Hope this helps.     Stewart


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#3 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2015 - 09:42 PM

Check the handle under the dash.  It is likely frozen up under there.  Once upon a time I had a 1450 and it had the same problem.  The Sunstrand hydro unit in them is nearly indestructible.  Chances are it is ok.  Once you have the handle moving I bet the tractor will move as well.  I would absolutely change the oil and filter after sitting that long.  I would also agree that the vibration is in the motor mounts but you should also check out the rag joints in the driveline and see what shape they are in.

 

And also  :welcome:  


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#4 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2015 - 09:45 PM

Stewart makes a good point on the brake pedal.  I didn't even think of that.  It will also return the lever to neutral when it is pushed so the hystat pump is in neutral.


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#5 I Carey No Cash OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2015 - 10:15 PM

Thanks for the info guys! I went and played with it some more. The pedal is free and I was able to force the linkage to move into reverse slightly and the tractor started to move backwards, then I pushed the pedal down and it returned to neutral. I felt better after that so I shut it down for the night. I will do a full fluid change on the engine and transmission later and break out the wd40 to see if I can free up the linkage some more. Does the pump and rear end share the same fluid? I will pick up some hydraulic trans fluid tomorrow if that's the case. I'm excited to get this tractor running, and im glad I discovered this online community full of helpful people!

#6 bigspoon OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2015 - 10:28 PM

Be sure to put Hy Trans fluid in it or its equivalent. Like Premier from Tractor Supply store. Yes the pump and trans uses the same fluid. Nice to see another cub come back to life
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#7 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2015 - 10:49 PM

Welcome to GTT. Take advantage of our Manuals Section and download the manuals for your tractor. Good Luck, Rick


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#8 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2015 - 07:25 AM

Skip the WD40, it's not a rust breaker. Use PB Blaster, or the best is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.
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#9 I Carey No Cash OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2015 - 09:02 AM

Skip the WD40, it's not a rust breaker. Use PB Blaster, or the best is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.

ATF and acetone?  never herd that before but now I have to try it!  My tractor could probably use a bath in that stuff!

 

My next step once I get this thing running good is to find some more good attachments for it.  I have a big garden spot and would love to find a single bottom plow.  I know I would need good ag tires for the back but what about weight?  How much more weight do guys usually add to be able to pull a plow?  I have heard of having the tires filled with beet juice or something that wont freeze. 



#10 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2015 - 02:56 PM

On the linkage the best thing to do would be to just take it off and take the pieces apart as much as you can and get all the rust and crap out of it and clean it all up nice and shiny and reassemble it and get it to work nice and free.  The handle is held on by a 3/4" nut with belleville washers under it, then the handle, then a friction washer and then the bracket.  I think the friction washer if it is too rusty and not cleaned up properly will disintegrate and then the lever will not stay at all.

 

For oil I am a firm believer in genuine Case IH hytran.  I have used regular hy tran from TSC or Napa in the past and now exclusively Case IH hytran.  It' is amazing to me the difference in how the Case-IH hytran suspends the water in the oil where regular hytran's do not.

 

 

You can pull a brinley one bottom with turf tires if you want to.  I have seen it done many times but it may need chains to do it.  As for weight, a 1250 is fairly heavy by itself and really doesn't "need" any although I would say to add some.  I plow with my 100 with older Good Year ag's with one set of IH wheel weights which are 26 lbs a piece and it has no problems with it at all in a normal furrow.  Get it too deep and it will struggle a little.  My 107 has Cheng Shin jumbo lug tires on the back of it and an 80 lb weight on each side and it will stall the tractor most times before it will spin out.  I also prefer to run 8.50 wide tires as opposed to 10.50 wide.  I think for running in a furrow with a 10" plow that they fit the furrow nicer and they get better grip than a 10.50 because they have more ground pressure to them with a smaller foot print than the wide tire does.


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#11 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2015 - 07:22 AM

On the Acetone/ATF, I have had great results using it. Old, rusty bolts come apart fairly easily. On some, I put a couple drops on and let it set for a while. Then I will see if I can move the bolt/nut. If it moves the slightest amount, I'll add more of the mix and let it set so it can work it's way into the thread. Be sure to put it in something so you can shake it as it will separate sitting around.



#12 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2015 - 08:29 AM

I'm getting greased up with all this talk about oil & lubage!!!!   :love:   Just Kidding!!

 

You have a bulldozer with wheels there!  They are the preferred tractors for pullers for sure.  The only thing I haven't seen so far and it could be your only problem is the driveshaft to the tranny..  Is it turning with the engine??  If not, there is a shear bolt @ the engine to shaft connection that goes occasionally.  Buy a few replacements as it happens..  **The vibration also could be because someone has been in the motor and removed the 'balance gears'  It will shake quite a bit @ idle but be OK at high speed.  The Kohler engines are known for them failing and taking the case/crank/cam out in one fell swoop!  (Why they are called 'grenade gears' in Kohler circles)  Some of the K engines don't have them though..  Just a guess.  Busted or loose motor mount as suggested is possible too..  

 

Just a few ideas for ya!   :wave:


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#13 I Carey No Cash OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2015 - 12:12 PM

It good to hear that this is a desired model.  The whole garden tractor pulling scene does interest me a little.  I've been on Brian Millers site poking around a little.  I will probably stick to around the yard and garden with my cub but I like how they soup up the tractors to get the best power and traction.  I'm sure I could apply a lot of those tricks to my tractor just for fun or to help drag my attachments around with greater ease!  Also I did notice the drive shaft while the engine was running, It was turning with the engine.  Tractor did slightly creep backwards when I pulled on the lever towards reverse.  I'm hoping once I free up the linkage and do an fluid change it will get me rolling. 



#14 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2015 - 12:20 PM

:welcometogttalk:



#15 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2015 - 02:37 PM

Just grab it and see if it is tightly secured to the engine.  It may still go around a bit but you won't have any power..  Hope you get it going soon!


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