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816 rider rebuild my current project.


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#46 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2015 - 12:47 PM

Kenny,

Your 450 and my 816 have the same hitch. If you decide to keep it and want to put a guard on it I'd be more than happy to elaborate more on how to do it. It's super simple.


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#47 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2015 - 01:10 PM

How much time and $$ is the Onan fuel pump kit? I have a CCKB that needs to be done.

#48 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2015 - 01:46 PM

Kenny,

Your 450 and my 816 have the same hitch. If you decide to keep it and want to put a guard on it I'd be more than happy to elaborate more on how to do it. It's super simple.

Thanks! Not sure yet what I'll do with it!

 

My fuel pump was leaking once I got fuel to it. Just tightened the screws up and it stopped!



#49 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2015 - 01:55 PM

Cat385B

I did mine in an hour or so, it's easy. You will have to take quite a bit apart to get to it though. That may mean other gaskets. I replaced a bunch of the gaskets on my onan just because of that and age. Post 36 here shows it but if you have questions ask away.

I bought my kit from onanparts.com, it was $79 + shipping.

You can also try boomersonanparts.com too but the price will be the same or at least close. Both are stand up people to deal with. 


Edited by devans, November 21, 2015 - 01:56 PM.

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#50 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2015 - 02:01 PM

Thanks! Not sure yet what I'll do with it!

 

My fuel pump was leaking once I got fuel to it. Just tightened the screws up and it stopped!

 

I hate to tell you this but if you give it enough time and start using it you'll want to keep it. Then you'll probably come down with G.A.S. or Gravely Acquisition Syndrome.

I have G.A.S. and five gravelys plus attachments to prove it.  :smilewink: Oh and a wife who's an enabler.  :rolling:


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#51 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2016 - 03:19 PM

Some more catch up.

It's been a few months since I last posted to this thread.
The 816 has been performing really well so now that the mechanicals are out of the way it's time to get into the refresh.
In the mix of stripping and painting it's getting the R&P system installed, swap out the 3 pole ignition switch for the newer 5 pole and whatever else I run into along the way.
I don't plan on getting carried away with full blown body work to smooth out anything that can't be readily seen, this is a working tractor and I don't plan on bringing it to a show. 
If it were going to be a show piece then a full blown restoration would be done. 
 

 

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With the hood cleaned up I turned my attention to the battery door. This may seem to go against what I said about not doing body work and things not being readily seen but that statement doesn't mean I'm going to cut all the corners.
I cleaned up the outside of the battery door and flipped it to take care of the underside and right away the door clips caught my attention. There's paint underneath and rust so those have to come off.
I drilled the pop rivet heads and popped the clips off.

 

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All cleaned up and ready for paint.

 

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When the bottom is dry I'm going to pop rivet the clips back on and paint the top.

 

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The inside of the hood in paint and the sides. Tomorrow I'll flip it and shoot the outside.

 

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Surprise, it's warmer out in the plant then I thought and I found the hood nice and dry. So I flipped it on end and painted the top.

It should be nice and dry for the ride home tomorrow, I just have to find a safe place to stash it while I do everything else.

 

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I'll be doing double duty between the loader and the 816, when I'm waiting on paint to dry I'll be fabricating and painting stuff I need for the loader.



#52 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2016 - 03:21 PM

More progress on the hood, it's ready to go home now.

I pop riveted the clips back on this morning and touched up the rivets.

 

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I put the cover back on the hood and it's a nice fit. Now I need to locate the two rubber bumpers for the door.



#53 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2016 - 03:25 PM

I spent a couple of hours the other day taking the 816 apart and actually had to stop myself from going too far. I still need to locate where the round rod goes on the loader sub frame so it has to be a rolling chassis.
I've been finding quite a few bolts that need replacing because the heads are rotted, no surprise there and no problem either.
I used to be a product tester in a club I belonged too years ago and one of the tools they sent me is called XTRACTOR. This tools works great on nuts and bolts that have rounded off for whatever reason.

Here's the bolts that hold the hydraulic valve to the bottom of the battery tray.

 

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Here's the set.

 

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Just pick the one that fits the best, tap it on with a hammer and go.

 

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Here's where I stopped.

 

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#54 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2016 - 03:35 PM

I brought the seat pan in to work with me to fix the cracks the 816s are noted for. I also borrowed a page from Ellis's book of tricks and added stiffeners. I've been thinking a lot about the cracks and the how and why of it and following all the threads that question them with great interest because I knew I was going to have to address mine at some point.
On to the repair.
I used a piece of copper sheet as a backing plate so when I got to the end of the seat pan I could continue welding past the edge and end up with straight lines instead of a small radius. Notice too I didn't stop drill the crack, after 44 years I think if the crack were going to get bigger it would have by now. If the crack had just happened then stop drilling would have been done.

 

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I welded the crack on both sides and then ground them down to base metal.

 

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The top of the seat pan will need a bit of filler to smooth it out, I'm not going to worry about the bottom. Notice the weld area at the edge of the seat pan at the corner. The extra weld allowed me to get a nice clean edge.

 

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To stiffen the pan up I dug through my junk stash and came up with these 90 degree stiffeners. These are meant for stiffening up wooden frames and are fairly cheap to buy. Plus they bend real easy so fitting them up is a breeze. I had originally thought to put two per side but after doing only one I was very happy with how much stiffer the seat pan was so the other two will go back to my stash.

 

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I got in some more quality time on the 816 at home and pretty much have it stripped down ready to clean up and paint. I may take a few more items off the frame to do a better job on them but I'm not sure yet. Oh who am I kidding, more will come off.
I couldn't help but have a feeling of deja vu when taking off the motor and transmission. biglaugh.gif
One of the first things I want to take care of is fitting the R&P system to the frame and then I can go to town on the frame and get it cleaned and painted.
I still need to go get the paint for it, I'm ball parking at least a dozen cans of spray paint.
The virtue of proper maintenance was quite evident while taking the 816 apart. When I took the front axle off originally to clean and lube the swivel pin it took me 4 hours with a hammer and a large drift, yesterday it took less than 5 minutes and no hammer required. Just another good reason to keep these things lubed up and moving freely.

 

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Next up was to document what went where and how on the frame, then take it apart. Actually I have a bunch of pictures I'm not posting for just in case I forget how something goes together.

 

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Deja vu time. 
I'll be taking more off of the transmission to strip it down to bare metal for new paint and I have to take the case back apart to check something on the inside. I may have forgotten to install a snap ring for the PTO. I realized this a while back but since I wasn't going to use the PTO I opted to wait until this point to check it.

 

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Here's where I left off. I have a garden wagon I'll be putting the frame on so I can take it out to the driveway to clean it and then over to the shop for the R&P mod.

 

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I'm stalled at the moment due to work shifts and lack of paint so progress reports will be a while.






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