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#1 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 02:23 PM

I pulled the Glow plugs on the Mitsubishi K3D yesterday to see if they were working as I could hold the switch for what seemed eternity without much success (I thought). They all work just fine. My question is on the wiring. This is a 3 cylinder. The main wire to the plugs is about a 12 gauge and was hooked into one end. Small jumpers (14-16 gauge?) went to each plug from there. When I put it back together, I ran the main wire to the center plug then jumped each way. Will that help? Also, should I make new larger guage jumpers? The main wire is hot when the switch is held, so I am okay there. Or should it be a 10 gauge?


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#2 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 02:49 PM

Kenny, how you start the wiring makes no difference if it's in the center, or not. Electricity always takes the path of least resistance, even in a tractor.

 

As far as the size of wire, sure, stepping up the wire size may help, but it's such a short run the difference probably will not be noticed. My experience with glow plugs is if you have juice going to them, and very little to nothing coming out, there shot!


Edited by stiemmy, April 05, 2015 - 02:51 PM.

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#3 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 02:53 PM

All of mine have a narrow plate of metal between the glow plugs.  If the wires between yours are on the small side, it will help to have the feed wire to the center one so that the 2 short runs only supply one plug, where running the supply wire to either end would make the first smaller wire carry 2 glow plugs.


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#4 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 03:02 PM

All of mine have a narrow plate of metal between the glow plugs.  If the wires between yours are on the small side, it will help to have the feed wire to the center one so that the 2 short runs only supply one plug, where running the supply wire to either end would make the first smaller wire carry 2 glow plugs.

That's how it was set up Daniel. Big wire to one end, small jumper to middle, small jumper to other end.  Now its big wire to middle and small jumpers to each end. I'll see how that works for now.  I can make up some larger jumpers if need be.

Each glow plug was getting red hot rather quickly when I tested them. That got me thinking the wiring wasn't letting the other 2 work as well as they should.



#5 stiemmy ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 03:04 PM

Olcowhand,
It's possible in that respect, but again the run is so short it should not make a difference. If that was a real concern, I'm sure the factory would have addressed that???:)

Edited by stiemmy, April 05, 2015 - 03:05 PM.

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#6 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 03:12 PM

Olcowhand,
It's possible in that respect, but again the run is so short it should not make a difference. If that was a real concern, I'm sure the factory would have addressed that???:)

I can't say for sure this has factory wiring on it. It's a Toro 322D mower. PO did lots of 'rehab' I am still redoing. Took me a while to get the dash wiring put back right.



#7 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 03:26 PM

One thing I did not check yesterday was whether the 'indicator' is wired in/working correctly. I'll do that tomorrow.



#8 Oo-v-oO OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 04:06 PM

One way to verify if the wiring is heavy enough would be to put a voltmeter directly on the plug end and check voltage while they are on, then check battery voltage while they are still on. If you have a voltage drop of more than a half a volt, I would say the wiring or connections could use some help. 


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#9 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 04:51 PM

I'll have to have help for that as the plugs are on a momentary switch and my tester is probes, so I have to hold them.



#10 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 05:15 PM

Kenny

To do a voltage drop put one meter lead on B+ and the other on the positive side of the glow plug.   Meter set to MilliVolts.  Then active the circuit and read the drop.  That will check the entire positive side.

Do same to negative side Meter on B- and the engine block.  Never know the problem could be on this side as well.

A reading of more than 500 MV or .5 V indicate an unacceptable resistance in that side of the circuit.


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#11 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 05:22 PM

Don, I'll have to see if my meter has MV. Never used that before.



#12 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 05:23 PM

1 Volt = 1000 MV


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#13 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 07:49 PM

Kenny, make sure you have a good clean ground to the engine block from the battery. Bad grounds can cause a big loose in voltage thru the glow plugs.


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#14 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 09:27 PM

I would say if the jumper wires have the circle on each end of the wire like this   o----o  they were probably factory. All the small diesels I have here have the primary wire going to the first glow plug and jumped to the next and so forth. On the ones I've wired I try and use 10 ga. stranded wire as the primary lead wire.


Edited by Cvans, April 05, 2015 - 09:28 PM.

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#15 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2015 - 04:27 AM

The best single test you can make is to test the voltage at the plug. It should be close to the battery voltage. If not then you have a bad connection somewhere. Since it heated up quickly when out of the motor I'm with Brian that you could have a bad connection in the chassis (-) side or it could be the relay as well. 


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