Here's my two cents and what I'll add based on experience, clear coat is a waste of money on rattle can paint which the vast majority is enamel, cheiffan is 100% correct it will yellow in time, if you want to use it go with very light coats don't scuff your last coat rattle can clear is not like using an automotive grade clear coat/base coat it won't bring back the shine on scuffed enamel.Here's what you should consider if tackling rims again ( also just IMO ) clean the rims good if you're going use self etching primer that means bare metal and I mean bare, if its not bare metal don't spend the extra coin on self-etching ( most quality brands , like SEM are close to $20 a can) scuff the first coat ( ultra fine Scotch Brite pads work the best for this) hit it with a second coat scuff it and that's it ,don't shoot primer over self etch, different chemical base in etching primer you may get orange peel, also you're wasting money you can spend on a good brand of top coat paint. NOW mount your tires , don't inflate them tape 'em up good get a heat gun ,start your top coat in light layers hit it with the heat gun till it tacks up then repeat, I've done this process with rattle can paint jobs ( on rims) up to 5-6 coats and have often asked if they are powder coated , remove tape air up tires, mount them on your piece and stand back and admire your work! Kenny is right hose probably a no-go , your going to scratch the heck out of the rim edges when you mount up the tires and with all that paint you'll have to feather it good to touch it up and it will take as many coats again to make it match the rest , good luck , hope for the best, live and learn, ask for advice, etc. And when all else fails do what we all do take a shot and learn what to do and what not to do next time
Edited by WrenchinOnIt, April 05, 2015 - 07:59 PM.