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Picked up a 990


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#31 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2015 - 07:22 PM

Anyone know of someone who makes the Farm King decals. I found the mtd versions but no farm king. Thanks.

Eric
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#32 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2015 - 10:06 PM

After testing some, I found there is no output on the key switch that has power on both start and run spots. So, I have 3 options. Add a toggle switch which I don't really want to do. Swap the switch for one used on a battery ignition which I thought I had till I need it haha. My best idea (at least I hope) is to run the headlight switch hot all times and run it off that. That way I know when the coil is on. Headlights on, coil on. Any thoughts? Would the lights cause a possible problem being on the same circuit?

Eric

Edited by dropped82, May 17, 2015 - 10:07 PM.

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#33 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2015 - 05:52 PM

You could, in theory, leave the light switch on also. Thus draining the battery even faster.

 

The coil circuit should also have a fuse at the source. I did the toggle switch mod for my coil with the intent of putting a proper ignition switch in later. The only sure way I know of, to not have the coil left hot, is the correct ign switch.

http://www.mytractor...-mtd-990-a.html


Edited by VTXrider, May 25, 2015 - 05:54 PM.

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#34 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2015 - 06:00 PM

After doing some research on this ignition wiring question, I found this site that seems to have an answer that will allow using the old ignition key switch with a coil ignition setup like on my tractor and what Dropped82 is talking about. He also talks about alternative ignition systems for GTs.

http://home.earthlin...toller/id9.html

 

I was thinking relays would be the answer but 2 diodes will do the job. By modifying this circuit to remove the CDI connection, it will allow the coil to have the needed 12v during both run and start on the old key switch and turn off the 12v as it would if using the proper coil ignition key switch. The diodes essentially replace a separate toggle switch to supply power to the coil. The circuit would also be protected by the tractor's main fuse or circuit breaker. The 2 red wires splice into the respective terminal wires on the key switch, "L" for lights and "S" start.

 

I would use common 5 amp diodes since there would be no CDI box.

 

Any thoughts on this before I try it? I may be missing something.

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Edited by VTXrider, June 14, 2015 - 06:34 PM.


#35 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2015 - 08:26 PM

Diodes would be the answer. They're simply just check valves to prevent voltage from going the wrong direction ie: starter constantly trying to start. I'm heading to bed now but will look more into it tomorrow.

Eric

Edited by dropped82, June 14, 2015 - 08:28 PM.

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#36 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2015 - 11:03 PM

Diodes would be the answer. They're simply just check valves to prevent voltage from going the wrong direction ie: starter constantly trying to start. I'm heading to bed now but will look more into it tomorrow.

Eric

Yes, and the other diode will allow the lights to still turn off when in the start mode like normal. Not being back fed from the "S" start terminal.

 

On mine, I will pick up the start wire from the hot side of the first safety switch coming from the key switch and the light wire to the hot side of the light switch. Making new terminals on each wire, adding the extra wire going to the diodes. The diodes will be connected at the coil or the ballast resistor in my case. I will slide a piece of clear tubing over the diodes so they are visible to the future owner.


Edited by VTXrider, June 15, 2015 - 02:57 PM.

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#37 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2015 - 10:54 AM

Had success with this mod and it works as described. Had to change the light voltage source due to the way I re-wired the tractor. "L" on the key switch goes hot to the lights and the dash light switch connects them to ground when on. Picked up the "L" at the hot side of one headlight. The "S" start is connected to the hot side of the first safety switch which is the parking brake on mine.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Image 02.jpg
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Edited by VTXrider, June 15, 2015 - 10:56 AM.

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#38 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted June 16, 2015 - 04:50 PM

Of further interest to me to know what is inside those little electronic transistor ignition boxes. Attached is a pdf file from an old article from the archives of Home Power Magazine in the 1980s. 

 

The author Richard Perez, made his own "transistorized module" for his 12v coil conversion.

 

There are also many other DIY module circuits found on Google.

 

I may try this for my conversion. The condenser is removed and the circuit is connected between the points and the coil and it has to be grounded to the engine.

 

The object of this add-on transistor circuit is to take the current load off of the points, eliminating point spark and increasing the life of the points. 

 

Any thoughts or comments are welcome.

Attached Files


Edited by VTXrider, June 18, 2015 - 07:10 AM.

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#39 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2015 - 05:31 PM

So, I'm once again being teased by this machine. Reinstalled the flywheel and now this freakin' thing won't thread on. Came off easy just as it should. I'm wondering if I should just get a nut to put on instead.uploadfromtaptalk1436999445286.jpg
This tractor hates me apparently.

Eric

#40 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2015 - 06:27 PM

Most likely a little thread damage. Look closely and repair with a triangle file. Good to read an update even though it is not a completely happy one.


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#41 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2015 - 08:27 PM

Between work and having to do some unforseen repairs on the carb of my 420, it's been put on the back burner. I managed to get all the tins I needed from Joe's on ebay for a real great price. That's the reason I pulled the flywheel. The piece behind it was rotted and missing most the tabs for the fan shroud to bolt on. Got that fixed and now it seems to be fighting me more. I gotta grab a new key tomorrow hopefully and start back in the assembly. Does your Briggs have this threaded stubshaft? It had a pulley on the front. I've been told these machines didn't have this setup on the front. Just a nut.

Eric

#42 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2015 - 07:19 AM

Yes, all of my 990s have a stub shaft. The stub shaft  powers the MTD  snow blower, log splitter, speed reduction spline drive, and possibly other implements. The double pulley is an option. You could put a nut with thick washer on it and torque to 100 to 120 lbs. Hold on to the stub shaft, you may want it in the future.

 

A note, the small key is aluminum and not a square. You may have to file or sand one side to fit. It is for alignment only so don't use a steel key. A steel key will damage the slot of the shaft and flywheel if it should shear. (Experience talking).


Edited by VTXrider, July 16, 2015 - 07:24 AM.

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#43 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 26, 2015 - 01:51 PM

Well, been kind of inconsistent with this tractor. I grabbed some Briggs shafts keys from the local mower shop. So, I'm back at it. After cleaning the shafts end some, the stub shafts now goes on fine. I must've marred it slightly enough to cause issues during removal. No big deal now. Unfortunately, me having this part for some time now I've managed to forget how this goes back together. Anyone have a view showing what parts get washers. I have a handful and I'm sure one goes behind the stub shaft.

I've been doing a bathroom job at my house that turned pretty major the last month or so between working 65 hours a week. Plus I mow 3 yards and my own. So, this tractor was put on the back burner. Thanks in advance.

Eric




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