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Just got the 1254 running!


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#1 gardentractornut OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2015 - 10:54 AM

Hi guys, 

I got a request to make a thread here about my progress in getting my 1254 running. I have been showing progress from the beginning on MTF (http://www.mytractor...1254-going.html)

I won't go back and show what I have done, but I will if I am asked. I just got 'er running for the first time yesterday! Very exited as this is my very first GT. But it came with some problems, like one of the drive belts came off and lodged itself next to the tightener pulley which cut it halfway through  :wallbanging:

I still have to mount the coil, as I just have it kinda hanging there where the old one was. I'm going to skip getting all the electrical hooked up for now, and just pull start it until I do.

 

Here's the video of I believe the second start, I can't seem to find the first one.

 

Here's a video (as fuzzy as it may be) of the first time it popped:

 

I have adjusted the carb main jet so it runs much better now, I'll get a video of it running full bore maybe today.

 

Also, I have the coil grounded with a pair of alligator clips, but I have an on-off switch that I would like to use to kill it with. I think it's rated at about 15 amp. Is that going to work? I would be using 14 gauge wire also.

 

Have a great day!


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#2 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2015 - 11:11 AM

Hey nice to hear it running! I see that it had a snowblower on it at one time. Double check to make sure that your exhaust has some hanger support. All these engines are famous for stripping the head where the exhaust goes in. Most of that can be avoided by simply making a hanger for the exhaust. Good luck with it you will enjoy it.


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#3 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2015 - 11:13 AM

When you have a coil it is a different type of wiring than when the engine has a magneto. When the engine has a magneto the ignition switch grounds out the magneto when the switch is in the off position. On a coil ignition system the ignition sitch supplies 12v posative power to the ignition system when the switch is on. Becareful that you don't mix them or you can ruin some components. Follow the wiring diagrams in the manuals and be sure you have the right type of switch.

That is a nice tractor. Good Luck, Rick
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#4 gardentractornut OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2015 - 12:08 PM

Husky, I'm glad you said something about that. Do you have a picture of one? Actually I still have the blower. I guess I gave the background on MTF, but not here. I bought this at an auction for $200 non-running and it came with a blower, deck and tiller.

 

boyscout, I learned about this kind of ign. system on MTF. You can see how I get it to run, as the keyswitch doesn't work. I have a pair of alligator clips that go from the coil to ground. I kill it by lifting the hood and pulling one off. You can see the clip wire in both videos, but better in the 2nd video. The wire that goes to the keyswitch looks like regular 14 gauge wire.


Edited by gardentractornut, April 03, 2015 - 12:10 PM.


#5 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2015 - 12:25 PM

So did you bypass the original ignition system completely?



#6 gardentractornut OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2015 - 01:07 PM

Not quite, just all the electrical.



#7 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2015 - 01:17 PM

So are you still using the stator behind the flywheel and ignition box on the shroud?



#8 gardentractornut OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2015 - 05:16 PM

I am using the stator, not the box, as I don't have one. There's a wire coming from the stator, which hooks to the positive side of the coil. The negative going to the keyswitch or in my case straight to ground.



#9 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2015 - 07:00 PM

Husky, I'm glad you said something about that. Do you have a picture of one? Actually I still have the blower. I guess I gave the background on MTF, but not here. I bought this at an auction for $200 non-running and it came with a blower, deck and tiller.

 

Well each tractor may be a little different as to where/how to make the exhaust support hanger. Here is a picture of the one I made for my 853. I used a piece of flat stock and welded an exhaust clamp to it. I bent the flat stock such that it would bolt to the engine somewhere and welded on the exhaust clamp to the flat stock. Then I mounted it to the engine and used the exhaust clamp around the exhaust pipe coming out of the engine. This holds it nice and steady.

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Edited by Husky, April 03, 2015 - 07:08 PM.

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#10 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2015 - 07:20 PM

Very good idea Husky on the support bracket. The closer you can get it to the muffler the better it will be. From the photos it could mount right behind the muffler and down to the frame, or motor mount where mine is.

#11 gardentractornut OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2015 - 10:31 PM

Yeah, that's a really good idea Husky! I'll have to work on that pretty soon.



#12 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 09:10 AM

Been reading the other thread you got going so to answer your questions on Engine power and the noise your hearing.

 

- The howling noise is most likely the big drive shaft bearing in the clutch yoke. When those dry up they make quite a racket.

I do stock them if needed.

 

-When going into 3rd gear the clutch needs to be let out slowly. Just like a car you cant just let the clutch out full bore and expect the engine not to stall. Alot of issues caused by "low power" are actually improper carb settings , or improper governor/valve adjustments.

 

I would keep the engine original if it were me, the 12hp is more than enough power for the tractor, if it needed more power the factory would have put a larger engine in there.


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#13 gardentractornut OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 05:49 PM

Yeah, that's expected with any tractor. I did let the clutch out quickly in 3rd to try to kill it, on idle, and it didn't kill it. BUT, at that carb setting, it wouldn't run right when I opened her up. I'm sure I said it before, I gotta play with it some more.

 

 I did a bit more work on it yesterday, changed the oil and greased any zerk I could find. It did help the steering a bit. How hard would it be to replace both of those front driveshaft bearings? The very front one is easy, the clutch pad one would be a bit harder, correct?



#14 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 06:02 PM

The owners manual should have the grease points so you can see if you missed any.

 

The clutch bearings are really not that bad, Just have to take the entire clutch and driveshaft apart to get at it. If you decide to go ahead with it I'd replace the bearings inside the clutch pulley as well and grease the insides , you should be good for years with fresh bearings in the clutch.

 

Here's a pic of one I did a few years ago

 

 

 

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#15 gardentractornut OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 06:06 PM

I should have done it when I had the engine out and the front bearing off  :wallbanging:

I might as well do it and replace the bearings and the belt that got sliced. I'm going to take the hub off and have a guy weld the tab that holds the free-wheeling pin in tomorrow. That has been one huge pain in the butt!






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