Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Need some help with a Gard'n Mast'r Jr. Flywheel pulley removal.


  • Please log in to reply
54 replies to this topic

#16 classic ONLINE  

classic
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 52970
  • 3,462 Thanks
  • 1,608 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted April 02, 2015 - 09:11 AM

Well, I got it apart. The puller was definitely not going to work with the way this is set up. The part that the hand crank engages is threaded on the inside and needs to be removed after removing the pulley set screw. That was interesting!

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20150402_095939-1.jpg

  • Alc, chris m and propane1 have said thanks

#17 classic ONLINE  

classic
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 52970
  • 3,462 Thanks
  • 1,608 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted April 02, 2015 - 09:16 AM

The flywheel came off without too much trouble,and there's the failed magnamatic coil. Now to get this changed out and get this tractor running again!

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20150402_101127-1.jpg

  • Alc, chris m and propane1 have said thanks

#18 chris m OFFLINE  

chris m

    Tractorholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8148
  • 3,277 Thanks
  • 4,033 posts
  • Location: Charlestown,Rhode Island

Posted April 02, 2015 - 10:32 AM

That was interesting. with the rust and the spacer in front of the pulley it was hard to tell!

 

Does the pulley match up to a pin on the flywheel? or do the really rely on just the set screw?

 

Thanks for sharing and I am glad you where able to get it apart! :thumbs:


  • classic said thank you

#19 classic ONLINE  

classic
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 52970
  • 3,462 Thanks
  • 1,608 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted April 02, 2015 - 12:21 PM

Well, The Gard'n Mast'r came alive! I installed the coil, cleaned and adjusted the points, and robbed the gas tank, carb, and fuel line from the page tractor. The engine ran for a second when I first started it, but then lost compression. I removed the valve cover and the valves were working fine, so I figured that some crust got stuck between the valves and seats. I removed the head and d sure enough, there were little flakes of rust compressed on the exhaust valve seat. I cleaned the valves and seats and torqued the head back down. After a few cranks, the compression came back, and the engine fired right up. It runs nice and smooth, but the valves are tapping, so I'll have my buddy grind the valves and I'll set the valve lash. The engine doesn't smoke at all and actually has a .010 piston in it. It was a good morning!

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20150402_103215-1.jpg
  • 20150402_114621-1.jpg
  • 20150402_103339.jpg
  • 20150402_121619-1.jpg
  • 20150402_125432-1.jpg

  • Alc, chris m and propane1 have said thanks

#20 classic ONLINE  

classic
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 52970
  • 3,462 Thanks
  • 1,608 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted April 02, 2015 - 12:26 PM

Yup, there is a hole in the pulley that lines up with a pin in the flywheel, Chris. The engine will be coming back apart since it will get cleaned up for paint and and good tin. At least it only needs the valve lash set and not a complete rebuild.

Edited by classic, April 05, 2015 - 11:24 AM.

  • Alc, chris m and propane1 have said thanks

#21 classic ONLINE  

classic
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 52970
  • 3,462 Thanks
  • 1,608 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted April 02, 2015 - 02:02 PM

Here are some pics of some of the original paint. It looks to be a jade green metallic color. There is a darker Forrest green color on the tractor over top of the jade.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20150402_144925.jpg
  • 20150402_144948-1.jpg
  • 20150404_145931-1-1.jpg

Edited by classic, April 04, 2015 - 05:20 PM.

  • Alc, chris m and propane1 have said thanks

#22 propane1 ONLINE  

propane1
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 54307
  • 6,110 Thanks
  • 3,202 posts
  • Location: Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada

Posted April 02, 2015 - 09:00 PM

That colour in your pictures looks like the colour that my sons 1964 Rambler American is going to be. It is an original colour for his car. Noel
  • Alc and classic have said thanks

#23 classic ONLINE  

classic
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 52970
  • 3,462 Thanks
  • 1,608 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted April 02, 2015 - 09:41 PM

It also looks like the old metallic Pontiac engine paint. This tractor has three different shades of green on it, four if you count the moss growing on it. I haven't seen a pic of a Gard'n Mast'r tractor with this lighter metallic blue/green paint on it.
  • Alc, WNYTractorTinkerer and propane1 have said thanks

#24 chris m OFFLINE  

chris m

    Tractorholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8148
  • 3,277 Thanks
  • 4,033 posts
  • Location: Charlestown,Rhode Island

Posted April 02, 2015 - 10:56 PM

It also looks like the old metallic Pontiac engine paint. This tractor has three different shades of green on it, four if you count the moss growing on it. I haven't seen a pic of a Gard'n Mast'r tractor with this lighter metallic blue/green paint on it.

From my research Gard'n Mast'r Tractors where painted with what ever they had on hand, and sometimes the person building the tractor would mix a custom batch. That is also why the decals are in diferent locations.


  • classic said thank you

#25 classic ONLINE  

classic
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 52970
  • 3,462 Thanks
  • 1,608 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted April 02, 2015 - 11:42 PM

Thanks for the info regarding the paint and decals, Chris. I like the look of the darker green, but I'm going to match the color that is on my tractor I think. Are decals available through anyone anymore?

#26 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

WNYTractorTinkerer

    Tinker Master

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 10789
  • 8,317 Thanks
  • 4,664 posts
  • Location: Avon, NY

Posted April 03, 2015 - 12:12 AM

It also looks like the old metallic Pontiac engine paint. This tractor has three different shades of green on it, four if you count the moss growing on it. I haven't seen a pic of a Gard'n Mast'r tractor with this lighter metallic blue/green paint on it.

Just what I thought!!  I had a Lemans with that exact color!  

 

I was going to tell you the crank pulley was 'righty-tighty  lefty-loosey' just like many other B&S setups.  Hope you get her going!


  • classic said thank you

#27 classic ONLINE  

classic
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 52970
  • 3,462 Thanks
  • 1,608 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted April 03, 2015 - 12:34 AM

WNY tinkerer, I got the engine running and I'm putting the correct clutch on it tomorrow. The clutch that is on it looks wrong except for the disk and driving plate. It was baffling just trying to figure out how the hub assembly had to be disassembled. I just want to make sure that the transmission and rear end work fine before I replace gaskets and seals and paint it up. I've already got the correct muffler and an NOS Sheller steering wheel is on it's way. I do have to modify the steering wheel by making a key cut in the hub, though. I want to bring this little tractor to a local show in the fall for my nephew to drive around. Here are pics of the correct clutch, the steering wheel, and the type of muffler I'll be using.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20141212_142508-2.jpg
  • $_1-1.jpeg
  • 20150105_203241-1.jpg

  • Alc, WNYTractorTinkerer and propane1 have said thanks

#28 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,458 Thanks
  • 6,625 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted April 03, 2015 - 05:14 AM

Glad you got your engine running :thumbs:   That clutch is something else , where do you go for parts for that ?


  • classic said thank you

#29 classic ONLINE  

classic
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 52970
  • 3,462 Thanks
  • 1,608 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted April 03, 2015 - 06:36 AM

This clutch was made by the Carlyle Johnson Machine Co. and the only parts that are available for it are the aluminum driving ring and the clutch fiber disc. These two parts can be purchased through the Twin Disc clutch Company.
  • Alc said thank you

#30 classic ONLINE  

classic
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 52970
  • 3,462 Thanks
  • 1,608 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted April 03, 2015 - 04:55 PM

I removed the Dodge Roller Grip clutch from the tractor and installed the correct Carlyle Johnson clutch. The forks on the engagement lever were bent out to accommodate the Dodge clutch, so I straightened the forks and installed the lever. I started the tractor and adjusted the clutch twice, and it works fine. All of the gears work in the transmission, and there are no noises of any kind coming from the trans or rear end. Now I have to pull the wheels off and get the rims ready for paint and tires. I want to replace the axle, pinion, and transmission seals, change out the gear oil, and degrease and adjust the brakes. The steering feels fine, so I'll clean the old grease out of the steering box and repack it.
I have a few other garden tractor projects that were ahead of this one, but I think I'm going to concentrate on this Gard'n Mast'r, since it won't take much to finish it. One thing I should mention is that aligning this type of clutch is important. Once the engine is installed on the tractor, install the engine mounting bolts, but leave them loose. Also, loosen the engine mount bolts. This gives you a little room to shift the engine to align it with the clutch hub that is mounted to the tractor. Put the trans in neutral and remove the spark plug. Constantly check that the clutch spins freely without binding as you snug down the engine and engine mounts. After everything is tight and the clutch spins freely, adjust the clutch and give it a test run.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20150403_102419-1.jpg
  • 20150403_125213-1.jpg

Edited by classic, April 03, 2015 - 05:00 PM.

  • chris m said thank you




Top