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Brinly Sleeve Hitch Plows


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#31 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 06:55 PM

Looks like you are taking way too much land there. A 10 inch plow is designed to cut and flip over a strip 10 inches wide and 5 inches deep. There is a clevis attached to the beam with 3 holes in it which you have used to attach the plow to your sleeve hitch with a pin. You need to unbolt it from the beam (2 bolts) and flip it over (rotate 180 degrees) and re-attach.

Then try it again and we can offer better advice if you start down the furrow a ways and then get off and take a few pics from the rear view.... vary the distances but be up close.

The first picture shows the setup for the first pass, after a few more the problems showed up, that's when I went and checked out out Brinly site for there recommended setup. the hitch bracket with the 3 sets of holes in it that you speak of is mounted wrong in the picture for my tractor, so I flipped it just like you say and tried to adjust the depth and couler like they say and still made a mess.
I'm going to try again another day this time on a spot that doesn't have such thick grass and see what happens.

I also checked out Olcowhands article on the proper way to setup a plow.

Brinly say's if you try to plow grass you will have problems, anybody else experience that?
What is the purpose of the couler or round disc?

Yes ET2 is a battery powered tractor > http://gardentractor...n-tractor-1957/

#32 MF14 plowday special OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 07:12 PM

Sod is much more difficult and even more so when throwing the land up the hill. You are on flat land and that First furrow looks good. The coulter functions to cut the sod ahead if the shin.... makes a neater job and if not used the sod will tear irregularly. Coulter needs to be adjusted so the shin follows directly behind in the slit sod.

A 12 inch Brinly is easier to get a good result with than a 10 inch. There is also some adjustment to compensate for side draft ... but if your plow is not worn or the beam warped then probably does not need adjusted. Because the plow had a broken share .... better examine the beam. Standing above it look to see if the beam is straight and perpendicular to where it connects onto the clevis. Also sometimes over time, side draft causes the metal to bend and distort.

Edited by MF14 plowday special, July 03, 2011 - 07:23 PM.


#33 MF14 plowday special OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 07:20 PM

The very late Brinly's have a 2 piece beam bolted rather than welded together... I have heard some negative commentary on that newer style but forgot exactly what the issue is ... will investigate as I have time... probably not such a big deal though ???

#34 MF14 plowday special OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 07:45 PM

Also .... when examining that beam.... the entire beam should be able to lay in one plane .... check the beam near where it attaches to the plow to see if could be twisted.... if is twisted it will affect side draft.

When you were plowing did your front end of the tractor seem to pull side ways needing to be compensated for by your steering ?
If plow is set up right that should not happen. Also ... just wondering .... would the batteries weigh more than a 1o hp tecumseh? ... I would guess they would .... usually additional front weight is not needed under ordinary conditions if plow is set up right.

#35 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 07:54 PM

From what I can see nothing seems to be bent or twisted, I don't think this plow has had much use, that share was broke when I got it, why it broke???
The only things I found wrong were the couler bracket, u shaped part was on up side down and the adjusting handle for the depth was seized, both I fixed.
It seems to pull straight, tractor goes more or less straight maybe a little to the right not much though. When plowing the front end feels light and the few times I lost traction it was the left rear wheel that would spin, sitting on the left side of the seat solved that.
I think this weighs about the same as the gas version.

#36 MF14 plowday special OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 07:57 PM

Put the chains on the lawn tires.... those brinlys don't have much twist in the moldboard .... which pulls easier but requires more speed to increase inertia so that sod flips over completely rather than falling back into the furrow

#37 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 08:12 PM

This is one reason why I asked if there are any plow days in southern Ont. be nice to see what other people have and how there stuff works.
Doesn't have to be a competition just a bunch of guys in a field somewhere who want to try out there stuff and have some fun.

#38 MF14 plowday special OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 08:25 PM

I need to see if the NY guys are having a fall plow day again early in Oct. Located between Buffalo and Rochester .... you are much closer to it, Its is 3 1/2 hr drive for me. Lots of fun and all colors.... I will be going if they have it... and they probably will.

#39 MF14 plowday special OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 08:32 PM

Ok ... here you go.... Aug 27 ... 3 hours west of Niagara bridge and 1 hour east of Port Huron Bridge ... on 40 acres of wheat stubble

Plowday .... for info greenfever@tcc.on.ca.
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#40 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 08:45 PM

Ok ... here you go.... Aug 27 ... 3 hours west of Niagara bridge and 1 hour east of Port Huron Bridge ... on 40 acres of wheat stubble

Plowday .... for info greenfever@tcc.on.ca.


Is that north or south of lake Erie

#41 MF14 plowday special OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2011 - 08:52 PM

Canadian side.... hosted by some big JD farmers .... they are coming down to the JD 2 cylinder expo at Canandagui NY this week ... I will meet them

Edited by MF14 plowday special, July 04, 2011 - 06:21 PM.


#42 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2011 - 05:43 AM

Getting them to suck into the ground can be a challenge. It seems to depend on speed, the plow, width of cut, etc. On mine, it was a boat anchor until I adjusted the land side bolt correctly. For some reason, this also helped with depth and made the pull easier. The depth of the furrows you were making, how deep were they? If you aren't at least 4-5 inches in, the moldboard won't do much or anything.

On Ryan's the soils seems to be the determining factor. Good dirt, no problem... Stoney soil, had to hang 25 lbs on it... Period. No amount of adjusting would get it in the ground. Worked acceptably after that.

Sod is an issue, but on mine, it worked OK after I got it dialed in right. The coulter could actually be a hinderance here. These plows are pretty light, really, and if the soil is hard or the sod is really packed, the coulter could produce some lift.

I would start with these steps. Follow the setup again, going one size smaller in the settings ( closer to the rh wheel), and find something in the 20 - 25 lb range to hang on the back... I know you shouldn't have too, but try it anyways. Also, make sure the sleeve hitch bolts are loose. The plow should float some left to right.

One more thing to try, over the weekend while at the Ashtabula Show, A gent told me he has a tire "One size smaller" that he puts on the furrow side to tip the plow a little more. I think he was saying he has something smaller than 23" in height on the rh back wheel. If so, it would tip the plow a little to the right... IDK, something to try someday I guess.

Good luck Doug. Frustration is your enemy here. Small adjustments and the patience of Job are your friend.
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#43 MF14 plowday special OFFLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2011 - 08:27 AM

Thanks Alan for good points

I have plowed sod with a coulter in heavy ground with no rock and had no problems but this was my brother-in-laws yard ... which had not been compacted by heavy equipment. One of the Ohio plowday's has hard clay and even in stubble is hard to keep plow down without weight.

As for the tilt (pitch) issue.... I've heard just the opposite. The wfm plow expert who has the two bottom and makes custom plow frames says 3ph plows do better with beam tilted to the left by raising the right side lift arm. He says the point at the rear of the share should be at a level slightly above the level of the plow point. But with integral... pitch is preset and not adjustable. I am thinking about designing an adjustable clevis !!! Also when you start plowing deeper than 5 inches with a Brinly 10 inch integral your pitch increases (in the wrong direction according to the wfm man). I have plowed with a walking plow behind horses.... you control the width of cut by applying downward pressure on one of the handles which changes the pitch !!!!! If you get a chance at a machinery show to plow with a walking plow ... by all means try it ... the teamster will drive the horses.... the experience will help make you a better plowboy .... guaranteed.

Also a Sears bottom will do a better job (proven at plowdays) and the PowerKing plow is better. I had an Allis Chalmers B12 with plow here this spring and the bottom on it was same as PK .... and has 50% more steel than the Brinly !!! I am making a PK plow adaptable to sleeve and 3ph so I can try it out. Years ago I had a PowerKing 10 inch (later years PK used Brinly 12 inch)..... and that plow would throw sod up the hill nicely with no fall back. .... So I am going to do some experimenting (when I find time)...
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#44 broken2 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2011 - 08:56 AM

I need to see if the NY guys are having a fall plow day again early in Oct. Located between Buffalo and Rochester .... you are much closer to it, Its is 3 1/2 hr drive for me. Lots of fun and all colors.... I will be going if they have it... and they probably will.


I'll see you there.
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#45 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2011 - 09:00 PM

Went out today and checked, measured what I plowed before, it looks like most of it is 3 to 4" deep. For some reason the first pass is 4 to 5" deep.
Going to try again next weekend on a patch that doesn't have so much grass.
Thanks for all the help one day I'll get right.




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