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My massey 10 is alive !!!!


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#1 zolt OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2011 - 08:03 PM

just came in from, what else, shoveling snow, and thought, why not try it.
and I did, drained the old gas in the tank, looked fairly clean and really not that old. Next, put fuel line back on, gave the carb 2 to 3 squirts of gas and checked the oil once again. It really looks clean, I mean like new oil and full. Soooo, hooked up my boat battery that was fully charged. Sat on it pressed on right pedal, belt disengaged, then on the right-clutch brake-but it only went down about an eight of an inch, made sure it was in neutral(did not want to end up down the street somewhere) and turned the key----- nothing, not even a click or hiss, or?
So I guessed that the clutch must have some sort of safety switch ? Does it?
Got off the seat and did the usual 'jump' with the screwdriver and by the count of a slow 3, it was not only running, but running without a miss.... first it was running with the choke partially on, but as soon as iI took it off, it almost 'purred'....
I can get it down to a slow slow idle and it runs fine, but when I try to up the rpm it dies.
Hopefully cleaning the carb will fix that.
I'm not familiar with the'sounds' that these motors make but it almost sounds like a conn. rod noise. Is this normal? When it is revving at a higher rpm, it is not noticeable
the muffler is amazingly quiet, so maybe this is why I hear this noise?
Anyway, hopefully the clutch pedal is just 'frozen', and the engine noise is normal...
:confuse:

#2 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2011 - 08:16 PM

I am guessing that your clutch pedal should move once it is running. Mine won't press down sometimes when it is shut off. The variable sheave may need serviced and greased. I am thinking you may have a bad ground or wire going to the starter. There are no safety switches that I know of on the MF10,12.

#3 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2011 - 08:30 PM

:ditto:

The variable being in the Park position will all but depress the pedal all the way. Just don't move the lever without the engine running.

On Ryan's MF10, the start portion on the switch was bad. We did manage to get it open & clean the contacts. After putting it back together, it works like it should. May want to check for proper voltages at the solenoid when the key is in start.

#4 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2011 - 08:38 PM

:ditto:

The variable being in the Park position will all but depress the pedal all the way. Just don't move the lever without the engine running.


:ditto: This is the way they are. The handle can be moved from "Park and 1" without running the engine, but no where else.

#5 zolt OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2011 - 09:28 PM

again I must say I'm new to garden tractors in general but not to mechanical things, but I am having a time understanding why the Var. Lever should not be moved, in general, without the engine running....
I even remember reading something about actually destroying something if you do force it(engine not running)
Of course, in defense of my stupidity, I have not yet seen any diagrams so I could perhaps understand how things are interdependent...
but in any case, thanks for the info that has been sent my way already... and following up, I have found some wires 'just hanging', and perhaps, hopefully I won't have to, I'll look into the ign. switch...
again, thanks.....

#6 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2011 - 07:12 AM

I believe if the belts are on it, you can bend the mechanism. The belts only self adjust if the engine is turning the pullies. There is a manual for the 10/12 in the manuals. It's also easier after seeing the thing in action once.

#7 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2011 - 08:09 AM

I did break the pivot pin for the lever trying to put it into part (but it was in 2nd) The pulleys need to be spinning to allow the belt to change the width of the pulley in order to change the ratio's.

Sounds like a great start! Like others said, check to see if you have 12v+ on the starter with the key turned to start. There are two safety switches, one at the PTO area and one at under the tractor so it has to be in park. Well, they should... mine are are all removed.

#8 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2011 - 08:27 AM

I did break the pivot pin for the lever trying to put it into part (but it was in 2nd) The pulleys need to be spinning to allow the belt to change the width of the pulley in order to change the ratio's.

Sounds like a great start! Like others said, check to see if you have 12v+ on the starter with the key turned to start. There are two safety switches, one at the PTO area and one at under the tractor so it has to be in park. Well, they should... mine are are all removed.


That is interesting about the safety switches. I never knew they had any on them as I have yet to see one with any of them. Although after you mentioned the one about the pto I seem to recall one being on the pto of the Massey 10 parts tractor I had. The frame and most of it is long gone now so it has been a while since I seen it.

#9 zolt OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2011 - 06:34 PM

solved the problem of starting----bad solenoid, but I do have another question, I can start it by jumping it in neutral ok, but i cannot put it into any gear--grinding, of course i do not want to grind teeth off. so being adventurous, I put it into second, low throttle setting and pointed it away from anything bigger than the tractor. Started it and away i went. Thank god at a snails pace, no whiplash lol, then I tried the clutch and with a lot of pressure it goes down enough to bring the massey to a stop, so i let it out again and once again we got underway at a blistering snail's pace. But, when I tried to shift gears---you guessed it, more grinding.
So finally here is my Question, 'why can;t I push the clutch down far enough to disengage? Is it possible that the brake is too tightly adjusted?

#10 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2011 - 07:14 PM

You are going to have to dig in to the adjustments. Also I think you should service the variable sheave, it sounds like it may be stuck. Instructions are in the manual on the site in the manuals section. It has been a while since I looked at my 12 to take notice of what belt moves when. I am pretty sure the brake helps stop the transmission also to ease changing gears.

Hopefully you are not trying to change gears while moving?

#11 broken2 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2011 - 07:55 PM

If the brake is adjusted to tight it will shorten the clutch travel. The brake band is connected to the clutch/brake pedal by an adjustable rod, when the brake is fully engaged it prevents the pedal from traveling any farther. I usually back the brake off until it doesn't hold and then adjust it back just until it holds good, this way I know I have as much pedal travel as I can get with the brake working. The brake is also supposed to engage when the variable speed lever is in the park position - parking brake. There is a procedure in the manual for the adjustment but I've never got around to doing it. Also you need to have the belt guard that goes around the drive belt/pulley on the engines crankshaft. This guard bolts to both the floor board and the engine, and are often removed. This guard acts as a brake for the drive belt when the clutch is pressed in. It also makes the belt conform to the guard and the guard supports it, keeping it from resting on the drive pulley and continuing move with the clutch in. It sounds a little weird but when you see it working it makes sense. The tractor will grind gears while your attempting to shift if the drive belt is not stopped first. If you can see the drive belt turning than that means the transaxles input shaft is also turning, even if the brake is engaged and the tractor is stopped.
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#12 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2011 - 08:01 PM

I knew someone could answer it better then I could. It has been so about a year since I worked on my MF12 other then fixing the snow blower. Thank you Dan for the good info.

#13 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2011 - 08:33 PM

Dan, right on. I was also wondering about non-OEM belts keeping the pulley from moving froward that last 1/2 inch. Also; Zolt, are all the belt guards there? I think they help guide the belt in a way that allows slipping.

#14 zolt OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2011 - 09:16 PM

thanks guys, i can clearly see it now-even without a diagram in front of me,
i can hardly wait to get at it, perhaps on friday, too busy tomorrow,
and i thank you for the reminder about the belt guards being set up properly. i had to deal with that when i replaced the 6hp briggs on my ancient tecomaster snowthrower with the-what else but, a chinese 6.5 hp. honda clone.
again thanks Dan and all others....
(like some have said, it would have all come together a lot faster if i could just see how it all works-but it is just way too cold here in my unheated garage to spend any time under the massey... maybe a fall project should be-----convert the garage to a heated workshop? hmmmm?)

#15 jscam OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2011 - 07:36 AM

Just a reminder..............if you decide to remove the variable sheave to clean and lube it up..........that big flathead screw through the sheave is left hand thread..........................don't ask how I know..............<G>




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