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Gilson montgomery 33048c briggs magneto replace help


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#1 Pdp2589 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2015 - 02:35 PM

I cant get the cover off that covers the flywheel and igntion coil magneto. Its the circular and square cover inbetween the battery and engine covering the flywheel. I have a part list for all models 1971-74 but the engine is not included. Help?

#2 tater195 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2015 - 03:43 PM

If its the horizontal shaft, you have to separate the oil sump on the engine and remove the drive shaft to get the cover off. 


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#3 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2015 - 03:50 PM

Which engine is it? Download the Repairmans' Manual for B&S from our Manuals Section if its a B&S. Post some clear pics if you need help identifying it. Good Luck, Rick


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#4 Pdp2589 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2015 - 05:30 PM

I tried to remove the drive shaft but couldnt, so ur saying i need to remove the rear trans cuz the oil pan is in the front and not blocking. The drive shaft goes into the rear trans which id perfer not to mess with.

#5 Pdp2589 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2015 - 08:51 PM

I guess ill just have to slice open the relic with my dremel :/

#6 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2015 - 09:05 PM

What's this about? Briggs or Kohler? This thing enclosed, hard access? Removing parts to just take off a shroud? Pictures would help, I guess.
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#7 tater195 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2015 - 10:02 PM

Im guessing this is the old simplicity looking gilsons. The oil sump is part of the front axle and the sump bolts have to be removed to pull the engine. The drive shaft is real hard to remove without pulling the engine. The '71 is going to have the starter/gen and that is easier to take off before you pull the engine. The PTO engagement shaft runs over the engine and needs to be removed also.

 

If you are thinking about getting an aftermarket mag.. good luck. Repeat the aforementioned process 3 times before you discover that the new mag wont work without re-polarizing the magnets on the flywheel.

 

If this is going to be a worker, not a show tractor, Its easier to go with an external battery powered ignition coil.

 

I kept 1 out of the 3 that I had just for the same reason, the ignition system on a 45 year old briggs in a gilson is a giant pain in the ass


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#8 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2015 - 11:03 PM

What's wrong with the Coil?Is the wire messed up? Or do you expect it to be bad?

 

Replace the condenser and clean and regap the points I bet she'll have spark.

 

 

Trust me you don't want to pull the engine on an old gilson.They are a H U G E pain in the butt.

 

 

You can not remove the engine and Oil pan as 1 unit.The front axle pivot pin runs through the bottom of the pan.

 

If you replace the condenser and clean and regap the points and you still don't have spark I would hook up an external Coil like Kohler uses on the old K series engines.

 

I've had 4 old Gilson tractors 2 old 16 hydros 1 MW 14 varidrive and 1 early s15 hydro.Only had to replace the Mag on 1 of them and only because mice chewed it up.I don't ever want to go through that again :rolling:


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#9 Pdp2589 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2015 - 11:56 PM

71 gilson 14hp GIL33048c
The mag got fried during complete rewire. The mag is behind a cover that wont come off unless i pull the drive shaft.... Its a worker not a show so maybe a few links would help me set up this external battery operated ignition coil. Because i have no idea how that works or where to start. Thank you all

#10 Pdp2589 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2015 - 11:58 PM

And its a gilson montgomery ward with briggs stuff on it.

#11 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2015 - 12:17 AM

Sounds weird, out of My league. Never had a Gilson that worked, mine was too hard for kid to work on. Why they always have odd systems?

#12 Pdp2589 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2015 - 02:17 AM

I think im just going to cut the shroud cover plate thing. Then weld it back on after. I dont want to pull the engine just for a fried magneto. Question is what kind of magneto do i have and what type do i buy at napa?

#13 tater195 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2015 - 02:17 AM

The plunger for the the points gets worn and messes with the timing and dwell giving spark problems, you have to pull the engine to fix that. External coil and new key switch can help that but is not a 100%fix . It is a time consuming expensive pain in the butt. Not knocking your mechanical expertise, but it can be one big headache. 



#14 Pdp2589 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2015 - 11:01 AM

The thing is i re wired the key switch the voltage regulator the battery the starter the starter solinoid the head lights and tail lights. It ran b4 the rewire with a jump from battery to starter. During the rewire I accidentally switched some cables and saw white smoke come out the top of the engine block (where the magneto is). Im assuming the cables switched sent too much voltage to the mag and fried either the coil or the ground. With a tester i found that i did short it out. So replacing the magneto is probably the best option. I can get to it without pulling the engine by cutting the flywheel cover. Just dont know what type of mag it is considering there are many types and not all that look the same are the same.

#15 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2015 - 11:12 AM

This should be the same parts even though it's a 15hp.

 

http://gardentractor...n-parts-manual/

 

 

Ignition Coil part # 298968

 

http://www.jackssmal.../460006/57009/s

 

Stick with the Points ignition Mag or you will most likely run into problems with the Flywheel.

You can possibly run a Magnetron Electronic Ignition Coil and do away with the Points and condenser.But the newer Electronic ignition coil will not work on a Flywheel with more than 1 magnet AND you have to check the Polarity of the Magnet.If the Polarity is wrong it will not fire.If there is more than 1 magnet it will fire Way to advanced for the engine to run.

 

Here check This post out for Info on Checking Flywheel magnet Polirity.

http://gardentractor...-mtd-990/page-4

 

Briggs used to Repolerize flywheels Free of charge if you pay for shipping Both Ways.Don't know if they are still doing this or not.

 

 

 

I Tried one of those Nova 2 ignition module on one of mine and it did not fire.It did fire on a Slightly Newer 1981 briggs 11hp model engine so I left it hooked up.

 

 

 

The plunger for the the points gets worn and messes with the timing and dwell giving spark problems, you have to pull the engine to fix that. External coil and new key switch can help that but is not a 100%fix . It is a time consuming expensive pain in the butt. Not knocking your mechanical expertise, but it can be one big headache. 

 

All older briggs engines used a Hard Steel points plunger and very rarely do they get worn enough to throw the timing off that much.My 2 Gilson H16 Hydros were State owned mowers,used to mow Shawnee State park with well over 2,000 hours on them and they both smoked like crazy but ran very well when I wasn't having Carb issues.

 

You can adjust the Coil mount on these old engines to compensate for a worn plunger if need be.There is 2 bolts under the flywheel that you can loosen up and shift the whole Coil mount side to side.






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