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LT12H resto and re-build


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#16 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2015 - 05:35 PM

Marvel Mystery oil recommends a 25% mixture, but I try to stay at the 10% range for these small engines. Add some to both the oil and gas. Should clean things  over time!


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#17 aevansgatech OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2015 - 07:43 PM

Spend a good part of the day out in the garage and cleaned up the head, replaced the fluids and added a splash of mystery oil in each. 

 

The engine does turn a bit more freely by hand now but it's still tougher than the 16hp

 

I was finally brave enough to try starting it, but alas there's some electrical problem between the key switch and the starter. I didn't get a click or anything with a fully charged battery and reading 12V across the solenoid terminals.

 

I'm thinking the key switch is faulty/corroded/loose wires or something because with the key partially on, the lights don't come on either.

 

Yay, time to put on the electrician's hat!  :(


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#18 aevansgatech OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2015 - 07:30 PM

Looking for some advice from you electrical folk out there..

I spent some time today checking the continuity of wires and such and testing my key switch.

I found a diagram in the manual for the continuity of leads in the off/run/start key positions and most of them did not work on my key switch. Only in the run position did I get continuity two terminals, but they were the wrong two terminals. I'm pretty sure the key switch is bad. Thoughts?

#19 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2015 - 05:50 AM

Could the switch be corroded inside causing this or are you thinking it's been replaced with the wrong one?



#20 aevansgatech OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2015 - 07:02 AM

Im thinking its corroded inside because it doesn't look like it was replaced.

From what I saw, in the off position there should be continuity between 2 terminals, in the on position it should flip to two other terminals, and full on should have continuity between 3 terminals. Unfortunately I only get continuity in one condition and to the wrong terminals
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#21 aevansgatech OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2015 - 07:33 AM

Is there a sheet that states which key switch goes with each model?

I haven't found a specific LT12H manual yet or a reference for the key switch part number

#22 aevansgatech OFFLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2015 - 02:41 PM

I found an interesting thing today. The part number which supposedly goes with my tractor is 299139. Many sites show it as a push-button switch, which looks completely different from the 5 terminal key switch that was in it

 

Would a push-button starter make sense in this vintage of Ford?

 

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Edited by aevansgatech, April 01, 2015 - 02:41 PM.

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#23 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2015 - 05:04 PM

I found an interesting thing today. The part number which supposedly goes with my tractor is 299139. Many sites show it as a push-button switch, which looks completely different from the 5 terminal key switch that was in it

 

Would a push-button starter make sense in this vintage of Ford?

I would think not! Where did you find that part #? New Holland lists the switch as an LB741308. You might give them a call and see if they can cross you to something!



#24 aevansgatech OFFLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2015 - 06:40 PM

I had Weingartz, a local mower store, pull up that part number for me.. Whoops!

I've been thinking though, as long as I wire up correctly to the 5-pin switch it should work right?

#25 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2015 - 08:39 AM

If that switch isn't working right, maybe not. Does this engine have a wire that grounds to kill it when the switch is turned off?



#26 aevansgatech OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2015 - 09:10 AM

Well I'm certain the old switch is bad. I don't want to shell out $45 for the appropriate replacement, so I was thinking of using this similar 5-pin switch and maybe redoing the connector wire locations to match up with this new one.

 

They seem fairly standardized and if I match up the battery, starter, and ground wires properly, is there any reason it wouldn't work?

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#27 aevansgatech OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2015 - 09:11 AM

If that switch isn't working right, maybe not. Does this engine have a wire that grounds to kill it when the switch is turned off?

 

I think so, it would need to go to the 'S' terminal on the switch



#28 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2015 - 09:29 AM

It might just do the trick. See if anyone else has a different opinion.



#29 aevansgatech OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2015 - 09:53 AM

Haven't made any progress in the tractor, but the deck is looking real nice for the YT16H

Wirebrushed the whole thing, with partial disassembly
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429541501.164827.jpg

Then 24hrs of rust reformer on the underside and two coats of Rustoleum Over Rust primer
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429541530.362315.jpg

The first coat of Ford blue enamel dried last night, and will be followed by at least one more coat
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#30 aevansgatech OFFLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2015 - 09:03 AM

The dang weather keeps changing so I'm worried about the 30 and 40 degree temps. Anyway, the top has 2 coats of enamel. Bottom will be sprayed on the next warm day

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429624986.222148.jpg
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