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Questions about my new 2414 / K321 PK


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#31 dzignr_tastz OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2015 - 09:03 AM

Side note - will Farmall Cub wheel weights fit the PKs? Was told they use the same wheels....

#32 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2015 - 09:07 AM

Side note - will Farmall Cub wheel weights fit the PKs? Was told they use the same wheels....

Yes


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#33 dzignr_tastz OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2015 - 07:36 AM

Anyone know what's up with this spring setup? Doesn't really look "stock" to me (especially since one end connects to the lower hole of the top link bracket with a bolt... but who am I to say - LOL), and I'm wondering, if removed, could I use one of the springs to replace the broken and hanging spring on my lift arm (which can be seen in one of the pics)?

Thanks for any insight. Not often you see a pic of the undercarriage of these things...

Also, think I'm going to go with the Cat 1 to 0 lift arm reducer pins from AgriSuply. However, I still need to figure out the top link conversion. Considering one of the adjustable ends on my stock link is bent, do you think it would be easier to replace it with a Cat 1 link (stock to the box blade and a reducer bushing through the knuckle on the hitch end, with a 5/8" pin) or get a stock Cat 0 link and try to reduce it on the box blade side (which would seem more difficult)? Just thinking, if the stocker bent...

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#34 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2015 - 08:05 AM

Anyone know what's up with this spring setup? Doesn't really look "stock" to me (especially since one end connects to the lower hole of the top link bracket with a bolt... but who am I to say - LOL), and I'm wondering, if removed, could I use one of the springs to replace the broken and hanging spring on my lift arm (which can be seen in one of the pics)?

Thanks for any insight. Not often you see a pic of the undercarriage of these things...

Also, think I'm going to go with the Cat 1 to 0 lift arm reducer pins from AgriSuply. However, I still need to figure out the top link conversion. Considering one of the adjustable ends on my stock link is bent, do you think it would be easier to replace it with a Cat 1 link (stock to the box blade and a reducer bushing through the knuckle on the hitch end, with a 5/8" pin) or get a stock Cat 0 link and try to reduce it on the box blade side (which would seem more difficult)? Just thinking, if the stocker bent...

Never seen a hook up like that for the helper springs.  There is usually one of those on the outside of the frame, either hooked to the front or rear depending on if you were using front, mid-mount or rear implements.  It's merely a spring to help you lift implements on tractors with no hydraulics.  I used one like this for years and I can honestly say, I never want to again.  Of course, I'm getting to the age where I want the equipment to do the work.  If you look at some of the manuals, there should be a picture of where this spring should go.  I will say this, with that spring, the mower deck was nothing to lift.  I actually preferred that over hydraulics for mowing as I could lift the deck faster than the hydraulics.  Using the rear disk, give me hydraulics.


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#35 icpik OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2015 - 08:26 AM

I think you springs are there simply for storage.  You will need to get the manuals to find out where they should be connected.

 

For the top link, I use a Cat 1 link for the landscape rake that can be hooked up either to a Cat 0 or Cat 1 tractor.  I ground off the ears of the swivel so it would fit between the steel pillars.  The pin is a little loose, but it works fine.  For everything else, I use the original Cat 0 top link.

 

Don Hayes


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#36 dzignr_tastz OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2015 - 07:48 PM

And on to the next issue! :/

Changed the oil (which was kind of thin, smelled of fuel, was purplish,mand kind of reminded me of mixed 2-cycle fuel but with more viscosity) and tranny fluid and proudly took her for a spin around the yard. One pass and it stalled and wouldn't start again. I have spark, so assuming it's a gas issue again (especially since it would start up and die with a little started fluid sprayed in the carb). I also noticed it shot a few cinders out of the exhaust as it was idling down to die.

So how much gas should the pump be shooting out every cycle? Don't think the carb is dirty again (but guess it could be), primarily because I was fine tuning the adjustment screws both at idle and WOT before hopping on it and was seeing noticeable effects. However, I also pulled the fuel line off the carb after it died and turned it over a few times, and while gas was coming out it was more of a cyclic dribble than a forceful shot of fuel. Also, it starts fine the first time of the day (if I let it sit overnight), so I'm wondering if the pump is partially clogged (or going out) and the engine is just using more fuel out of the bowl than the pump is keeping up with delivering, but letting it sit allows the bowl to slowly fill back up over time?

I've also noticed the throttle is a little jumpy at times, and is opening and closing the throttle plate periodically. It's usually when I first start it up wnd then it evens out, but I'm wondering if the two are associated. Anyone experienced this before?

#37 dzignr_tastz OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2015 - 10:32 PM

Well I'd say there was a fuel problem!! No one told me there is, in fact, a fuel "filter" and cup on the bottom of the tank - LOL! The entire top of the filter housing, right where it screws onto the tank, was entirely clogged with sand, grit, rust, or whatever else made up the glob of crap I cleaned out of it, and the screen in it was all but a solid sheet of varnish. I'm surprised she ran at all!

Anyway... some carb cleaner, driveway gravel, hot water, thread tape, and an air compressor, wire brush, screwdriver and X-ACTO blade later, the entire assembly (threads and all) is cleaner than it has been in 20 years. I'm crossing my fingers the filter kept everything out of the pump and carb, but I guess we'll see, and I'll take it step by step from the tank down. Either way, I think I'll add an inline fuel filter between the pump and carb to at least keep myself from having to pull that back off anytime soon (other than possibly this one last time, if necessary). So am I correct in assuming the threaded "T-handle" on the filter assembly is basically a petcock, or does it need to be adjusted to delegate flow from the tank?

Now I have to just decide whether to paint the tank or finish sanding and polishing. It has some gouges in it on one side (no idea what from) that I don't think I'll be be able to get all the way out, so I'm leaning towards going the paint route. The cap turned out awesome, though, and looks all but new, so I think I'll leave at least that au naturale.

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#38 dzignr_tastz OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2015 - 05:09 PM

Fuel fixed... no leaks... starts right up. Still have some surging/hunting throttle at mid to high rpms, though, so I guess I'll reset the governor (since I had the carb off) and adjust the points. Isn't it the contoured/domed cover right underneath the governor?

Also grabbed a pair of Cub rear wheel weights. Does anyone have any quick suggestions on where to (mainstream, on the weekend) grab some replacement square inset bolts to fit the wheel hubs, or any spray paint that is a good match for the factory orange?
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#39 Glenn Ayers OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2015 - 01:57 AM

Lowe's should have the "Carriage Bolts" you need for the weights.  You may need to cut them to the length you need.

 

"CASE TRACTOR" Flambeau Red   is the closest color I've found to match the PK Orange.

 

g


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#40 dzignr_tastz OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2015 - 08:00 AM

Lowe's should have the "Carriage Bolts" you need for the weights.  You may need to cut them to the length you need.
 
"CASE TRACTOR" Flambeau Red   is the closest color I've found to match the PK Orange.


Thanks. And yeah... I saw them last night at Lowes, in all different lengths, while picking up new hardware for the box blade, but figured I'd wait to grab some until I know how long I'll need them. I pressure washed the wheel weights yesterday, and while I have a couple of the original (trashed) bolts for a stock length reference, since I'm going to flip the rear wheels for a sligtly wider stance I wasn't sure if that would change the required length.

So any idea on where to actually grab some of that paint? Is it readily available locally, or more of a custom order deal?

I also think I figured out my lift spring setup! It looks like, according to the manual diagram, the factory lift spring (which I now think is the orange of the two under the tractor) originally connected from a pin in the hole on the top half of the arm above the pivot point, forward to a pin in a hole in the frame right in front of the front hanger bracket. However, I can only assume the PO modified this setup and relocated the stock spring, adding the additional linked spring seen in my pics, from the lowest hole on the top link mast bracket to the mower lift arm under the chassis, and then replaced stock one on the lift arm with a shorter spring going from the very bottom of the arm (now below the pivot point) back, instead of forward, to a pin right in front of the rear wheel hub. I guess this would effectively double, or at least increase to some extent, the factory helper action of the manual lift arm.

Anyway - thought I'd explain the concept (may add more pics later) as it might be a worthwhile mod for anyone stuck with a manual lift working with heavy implements. For now, I'm just going to replace the broken spring on the arm and see how well the two locations work together with the box blade.

#41 Glenn Ayers OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2015 - 07:58 AM

Tractor Supply used to carry  "CASE TRACTOR" Flambeau Red ... but no longer.   Seems that very few mfgrs are currently making the flambeau red.      They currently make the new Case Power Red ... which is very close to Flambeau Red ... so it may match the Power King color close enough.   They are both Orange with more red .. just like the PK.

Here are some links to the "CASE TRACTOR" Flambeau Red paint still made/sold.

http://www.industria...se_tractor.aspx

http://www.virginiat...s.com/6833.html

http://www.waltstrac...lity_Paint.html

http://www.tractorpa...y_8342_prd1.htm

http://www.tractorpa...ol-p/100349.htm

http://www.tractorpa...t-htp762sp.html


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#42 dzignr_tastz OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2015 - 10:31 PM

Thanks for the links. Was hoping for something local (like Tractor Supply) for this weekend, but didn't get around to the weights anyway, other than a little wire brushing. I'll order if necessary... ;)

So the box blade is on, with all new hardware (man it's going to be heavy lifting that thing with the manual lift), and despite the it actually running decently again after cleaning the tank and filter, I'm still getting surging throttle at mid to high rpms. Idle is smooth as silk, I adjusted the governor this evening, and I apparently have no points to adjust, but a breakerless ignition. Wasn't expecting that...

Any off-the-wall suggestions? Read quite a bit about it tonight and guess I'll just disconnect the governor tomorrow and operate the throttle by hand to see how it runs that way. Hoping it's not a worn governor gear, but maybe just the pump or the carb needing to be cleaned again given the condition of the filter.

#43 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2015 - 04:32 AM

Thanks. And yeah... I saw them last night at Lowes, in all different lengths, while picking up new hardware for the box blade, but figured I'd wait to grab some until I know how long I'll need them. I pressure washed the wheel weights yesterday, and while I have a couple of the original (trashed) bolts for a stock length reference, since I'm going to flip the rear wheels for a sligtly wider stance I wasn't sure if that would change the required length.

So any idea on where to actually grab some of that paint? Is it readily available locally, or more of a custom order deal?

I also think I figured out my lift spring setup! It looks like, according to the manual diagram, the factory lift spring (which I now think is the orange of the two under the tractor) originally connected from a pin in the hole on the top half of the arm above the pivot point, forward to a pin in a hole in the frame right in front of the front hanger bracket. However, I can only assume the PO modified this setup and relocated the stock spring, adding the additional linked spring seen in my pics, from the lowest hole on the top link mast bracket to the mower lift arm under the chassis, and then replaced stock one on the lift arm with a shorter spring going from the very bottom of the arm (now below the pivot point) back, instead of forward, to a pin right in front of the rear wheel hub. I guess this would effectively double, or at least increase to some extent, the factory helper action of the manual lift arm.

Anyway - thought I'd explain the concept (may add more pics later) as it might be a worthwhile mod for anyone stuck with a manual lift working with heavy implements. For now, I'm just going to replace the broken spring on the arm and see how well the two locations work together with the box blade.

There would be a pin in the frame which is essentially a bolt up around the area where the stock muffler is.  Never saw one with pins in the lift arm.  Basically you would just put the spring end through the holes there.  Put it on top to help with rear implements and on the bottom to help with front implements.  There should be one hole above the pivot point and two below for tension adjustment.


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#44 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2015 - 06:30 AM

Ok, I stand corrected.  Hey, it's been some years since I've owned one of these with manual lift.  Actually I have one now but I don't think I have a spring.  Anyway, below are some pics of how this helper spring should mount.  One for front implements and one for rear.  I hope the pics don't give me problems as I took them off the net.

 

For rear implements

Economy lift spring.png

 

For front or mid mount implements

Economy lift spring 2.jpg


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#45 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2015 - 08:14 PM

I really think springs in pix are not right position at all. The big one is just pulling on the arm that mower chain lifts too, which is also wrong and just some extension someone put on there. Don't even see where that would give any leverage put on there. The later pix posted above are the more useful pull areas and make more sense. On that surging, try changing the car settings a little, maybe making slightly richer than you have now and see if it evens out. Other than the light Gov spring being stretched or in wrong holes on the linkages (might try diff holes too) the carb settings might help. If you look in a kohler manual, they may show the governors and diff postition changes of springs and such to get diff things to happen. I don't think any PK manuals will show those settings.


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