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Bolens 1886-01 Re-power......?


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#16 bprzyw OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2015 - 07:15 AM

Thanks, guys. Appreciate it greatly. Driveshaft is bad cause someone(guess who) without a press forced the engine side ujoint caps in place with a vice and bfg. My fault, cannot blame anyone else. No wear on either shaft end. That's good. When I put the shaft back in, I put the lock screw in the engine side, and thinking I was not taking it apart again, loctite'd it. Dumb mistake. hard to get a drill in there after I stripped the allen. Anyone got a used carb? stamped carter N #30 on inside, or #26 will work. Going to get compression, working on drive way last night, never got to the barn.......... Can I use a Tractor Supply square shaft , cut it down?



#17 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2015 - 11:06 AM

That's too bad on the locktite. I guess you needed to use the lighter 242 blue stuff. It will hold but not lock as bad as say the red stuff does. I say you could use the square shaft stock but the biggest worry is it needs to be absolutely on center, no wobble. It will wear the hydro input shaft if it is off center or balance for that matter. Best of luck with it, don't hesitate to ask more questions. It helps all of us.


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#18 bprzyw OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2015 - 11:09 AM

Ok, got my compression tester.........resutls.........cylinder #1 30 to 60 (keeps bouncing around) , #2 60.....guess its time for some work. With the plugs in and sitting for a year, fired right up. weird. Still got to deal with the driveshaft. Before i do that, whats to do about getting the cylinder pressure up? new rings? complete overhaul? Do not know where to go (start) from here. Whats the next step?



#19 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2015 - 05:23 PM

Okay , I'd start by pulling the heads , inspecting condition of valves, carbon build up? Valve seating issue? check the clearance on the valves , usually clearance doesn't close up getting tighter with age but it's worth checking. Also could have a leaking head gasket. Price of rebuilding these can get very costly , IMO start with the basics on what it could be and go from there.
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#20 Rock farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2015 - 07:04 AM

I'm surprised it would run with that low compression.
I'd be suspicious of your results.
Can you check your tester on another engine?
I'd first Squirt a little oil in the cylinders and see if that seals the rings and brings the compression up.
It's not really a good test in a horizontal engine. But, it's easy to do.

Joe
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#21 bprzyw OFFLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2015 - 08:40 AM

Tester is a bit on the old side. I was thinking maybe skewed results because of that. I will try another go and pick up another new tester. Also interested in pulling the heads and checking the valves. plugs get a bit black running for a bit. not wet, just black. Oh, happy 4th.


Edited by bprzyw, July 04, 2015 - 08:42 AM.


#22 bprzyw OFFLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2015 - 04:25 PM

Tried oil in the cylinders, no increase. Pulled #1 head first, cleaned any carbon build up on valves and seats. scoring on bottom of cylinder walls. put back together, 60 psi smack on and solid. Did same to #2 cylinder, no scoring, nice clean walls, 60psi smack on. Heads look good. Need to be magnafluxed though. seems valves could be adjusted a bit, I do not think enough to pull 90 psi though. tested compression tester on known good engine...its right on. Needs to be bored out, looking at it seems like .20 over would do it, as finger nails get stuck in grooves. Who knows maybe .30 over. Where to go from here?


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#23 bprzyw OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2015 - 09:44 AM

Well, comes to be I have been bringing cyl #2 TDC then adjusting points / timing / dwell. Who knew. I thought cyl #1 was governor side. Wow was I way off. And she fires right up. Tonight going to bring up flywheel to TDC in sight hole. pull both valve covers, and adjust each cylinders valves. See what happens then. Do you guys think I could get away with a ring/gasket/piston kit, and have the jugs bored? and valves done? or is it better to go all the way?



#24 bprzyw OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 08:16 AM

Rings bad. Reset valve lashing, they were out  several thousands. going to get a new #2 jug, and hone/crosshatch, new ring/gasket kit, should be back in business. Put pint of 5w30 in each cylinder, compression went to 100psi #1, and 75psi in #2, #2 is the one with the gouges in it.



#25 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2015 - 04:43 PM

Not sure what you mean by get a new #2 jug, the jugs are part of the engine castings in all the K482, 532, or 582's I've ever seen. .020 over is has far as any machine shop I've ever contacted would punch these , my guess was that's all that's available from Kohler on pistons and rings , never had to take one more than .010 on a rebuild and never pulled a .020 apart all I've seen have been .010 over on jugs and .010 under on rods, not saying that anything more than .020 over on the jugs isn't doable or out there. Never heard of magnafluxing aluminum ? Am I missing something? Don't want someone selling you on a procedure that unobtainable, you can use a penetrating die on them ,maybe block them if you think their warped , good used heads available most likely from our site sponsors


Tried oil in the cylinders, no increase. Pulled #1 head first, cleaned any carbon build up on valves and seats. scoring on bottom of cylinder walls. put back together, 60 psi smack on and solid. Did same to #2 cylinder, no scoring, nice clean walls, 60psi smack on. Heads look good. Need to be magnafluxed though. seems valves could be adjusted a bit, I do not think enough to pull 90 psi though. tested compression tester on known good engine...its right on. Needs to be bored out, looking at it seems like .20 over would do it, as finger nails get stuck in grooves. Who knows maybe .30 over. Where to go from here?


Rings bad. Reset valve lashing, they were out  several thousands. going to get a new #2 jug, and hone/crosshatch, new ring/gasket kit, should be back in business. Put pint of 5w30 in each cylinder, compression went to 100psi #1, and 75psi in #2, #2 is the one with the gouges in it.


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#26 bprzyw OFFLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2015 - 06:04 AM

Oh, right, keep forgetting the blocks are not cast. I had thought that the cylinders are removable from the block (main engine casting) if I can get a decent used one for #2 cylinder, then I could just possibly de-glaze cylinders, and use standard rings. (if with in specs) So it seems I was looking a the kohler m18s engine, that one has removable cylinders. So machine shop it is, bore .10-.20. Heads good. Just lost when it comes to small engines. Thanks for clearing that up for me.



#27 Steevo OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2015 - 07:55 PM

I have re-powered an 1886-01 and an HT20, both with Kohler Command V-twins.

I found that the costs of rebuilding the original K-series engines were prohibitive, and that, coupled with the fact that the older opposed twins are GAS HOGS, made my decision(s) easy.

The swap is fairly simple and the result is a gas-sipping, unleaded-fuel-happy, easy to find parts and accessories for modern power plant.

I do have a semi-complete K432 engine (no tin, manifolds, governor, etc) from my 1886 sitting in the garage, collecting dust.

Come get it.



#28 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2015 - 09:00 PM

Steevo, you get the prize for longest to wait until their first post.
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#29 wilberj ONLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2015 - 09:36 PM

I have re-powered an 1886-01 and an HT20, both with Kohler Command V-twins.

I found that the costs of rebuilding the original K-series engines were prohibitive, and that, coupled with the fact that the older opposed twins are GAS HOGS, made my decision(s) easy.

The swap is fairly simple and the result is a gas-sipping, unleaded-fuel-happy, easy to find parts and accessories for modern power plant.

I do have a semi-complete K432 engine (no tin, manifolds, governor, etc) from my 1886 sitting in the garage, collecting dust.

Come get it.

 

 

About darn time.... Welcome to GTtalk!


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