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Bolens 1886-01 Re-power......?


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#1 bprzyw OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2015 - 08:26 AM

Hey everyone!! Got a Bolens 1886-01, looking to possibly replace the engine. Anyone put a harbor freight predator 24hp in one? What would be a cheap alternative? I do not see "repower kits" around anymore. Its got the original Kohler K482s. Not sure if its carb related, timing related, or just plain tired. Runs hot, cuts out, stops, shakes like it has epilepsy. Shook so hard, it snapped the air filter threaded rod off!!! Really would like to get running good this spring.

Thanks

Bernie

 



#2 Deerlope ONLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2015 - 09:00 AM

When Engine warehouse was selling replacement engine kits I put a 24 HP Honda in one of mine. I do not think the have the kits any longer. Your choice of the 24 HP Predator would be a good choice. According to the Duff's whom are a recognized authority on the Eaton 12 hydro tranny it can stand up to 24HP and more. You would have to most likely get a crank shaft extension made to accommodate the PTO pulleys up front. 


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#3 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2015 - 09:28 AM

What size and length is the original crankshaft on the Kohler? The Chonda has 1", 2 3/8" crank. Also keep in mind that the crank has a bushing, not a bearing, so an electric clutch must be used instead of a manual pto engagement. The 1886 is electric, correct?

I would suggest trying to find a replacement, but those engines are getting hard to find, they've been out of production for a while.
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#4 bprzyw OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2015 - 09:57 AM

Deerlope....Yes, I have seen that. No longer avail. though.

Cat...manual PTO, not electric.

Not sure of crank size, seems they had a variety in the K482s engine. I will have to mic it.



#5 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2015 - 10:05 AM

I would opt for a rebuild or a replacement engine of the same model

With all the fabbing you have to do you'll probably end up spending more on a repower than a rebuild or replacement of an original Kohler engine.

Besides the Connecting rods almost every part is still available, a Good machinist could put a sleeve bearing in the rod journal if necessary.


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#6 bprzyw OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2015 - 10:17 AM

Seems  the way I am headed..... Already need a new driveshaft and carb.



#7 WrenchinOnIt ONLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2015 - 05:53 PM

These engines are true workhorse's, don't give up on it yet, I agree with Brian ( Doctor Bolens ).

It could be a combination of several small individual issues that coupled together compiled into a major one, if you want shoot me a PM I'll pass on some info I've gathered over the years tinkering with what I consider Kohlers best engines the K series.

Edited by WrenchinOnIt, March 25, 2015 - 05:58 PM.

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#8 Rock farmer ONLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2015 - 04:48 PM

Hey everyone!! Got a Bolens 1886-01, looking to possibly replace the engine. Anyone put a harbor freight predator 24hp in one? What would be a cheap alternative? I do not see "repower kits" around anymore. Its got the original Kohler K482s. Not sure if its carb related, timing related, or just plain tired. Runs hot, cuts out, stops, shakes like it has epilepsy. Shook so hard, it snapped the air filter threaded rod off!!! Really would like to get running good this spring.
Thanks
Bernie

I don't know what's wrong with your engine.
But, I'd say try to fix it before trying to replace it.
It does not seem to me that there is anything major wrong with your engine.
If the connecting rod is not snapped, I'd say it would be more economical to repair it.
Pull thing engine, remove the tins, clean it, tune it and bench test it, without using the old wiring.

If you do find something major wrong with it, my first choice would be another k series twin.
These engines were used in a lot of generators and industrial applications.
My HT 23 is using an engine from a cranberry harvesting machine.
It cost me $400 and has almost no hours on it.
I did have to make a drive shaft adaptor for it.
From your description, you may just need a liberal application of holy water!

Joe

Edited by Rock farmer, March 26, 2015 - 04:50 PM.


#9 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2015 - 07:08 PM

Runs hot, could be running lean, stalling could be lean, could also be timing,  you can time those engines just like the old engines with the distributor and points. I hope you can get it running those k432 have plenty of power when running right.


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#10 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2015 - 08:03 PM

Seems  the way I am headed..... Already need a new driveshaft and carb.

 

I just finished talking to a fella that has restored a LOT of Bolens 1886s, and he says that the 'shaking' is a classic symptom of a bad drive shaft.

 

He also said that it would be best to replace it with one of the 2 piece drive shafts.


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#11 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2015 - 09:39 PM

Running hot can also be a simple matter of timing. Check the points and make sure they are set for 0.020". Believe it or not, I actually had a K532 in which the points were so worn that they were only openig to 0.005", and the thing still ran, but poorly, and hot. Once I put new points in, and set them properly, the timing was spot on, and the engine ran fine. Remember dwell (points opening amount & duration) affects timing, but timing does not affect dwell. Always set your points first.


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#12 bprzyw OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2015 - 09:50 AM

Ok, so.....bring up cylinder 1 to TDC on exhaust, which is on left side of engine (sitting in seat) (side with points). Then set points to open @ 0.020? correct so far? Going to bring it from barn to garage tonight, and remove driveshaft, then go from there. I know carb is bad, even with rebuild 3 times, its shot. Anyone got a replacement carb? I do need this.



#13 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2015 - 10:14 AM

Shoot me a PM I can get new Kohler ones but they are pricey


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#14 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2015 - 11:52 AM

Ok, so.....bring up cylinder 1 to TDC on exhaust, which is on left side of engine (sitting in seat) (side with points). Then set points to open @ 0.020? correct so far? Going to bring it from barn to garage tonight, and remove driveshaft, then go from there. I know carb is bad, even with rebuild 3 times, its shot. Anyone got a replacement carb? I do need this.

Bring piston up to TDC on #1 with both valves closed, after exhaust valve closes.
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#15 Rock farmer ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2015 - 09:53 PM

Ok, so.....bring up cylinder 1 to TDC on exhaust, which is on left side of engine (sitting in seat) (side with points). Then set points to open @ 0.020? correct so far? Going to bring it from barn to garage tonight, and remove driveshaft, then go from there. I know carb is bad, even with rebuild 3 times, its shot. Anyone got a replacement carb? I do need this.


Unfortunately, the drive shaft is in there so tight, that you will have to pull either the engine or the rear end to remove it.
If you can figure out which end is loose that should make the decision easier.
It's usually the hydro end that's loose. The input shaft wears to be undersized.

Good luck!
Joe




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