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Servicing the Allis Chalmers B1.


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#1 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 03:07 PM

It's a bit chilly out today, but I'm completely going over everything on the B1. I already changed out the transaxle fluid, so I decided to remove the RH hub and check the condition of the differential gears. Everything looks great, but the grease was a little thick. I added a little gear oil to thin the grease out a bit and added some new grease. The axle seals aren't leaking and the differential grease seal is in good shape. I can just clean everything and reassemble.
I greased the steering gear shafts and the bushings feel fine and won't need to be replaced. I have new front spindle bushing, so I'm going to replace them since the old ones are a little worn. The rubber seals on the inner wheel bearings are in great shape, so I will just clean, repack, and reassemble the front wheels/bearings. Hopefully the valve guide bushings will be installed in my block this week so I can get the engine back together. I'll be looking for the Briggs tools to do the valve guides myself. I hate having an engine apart for weeks because I'm relying on someone else to do the work. I sure miss way back when, since there used to be a few shops around that got the work done ASAP. Times change, I guess. One of the pics below is of the differential cluster gears from my other B1. It's always good to service these in case water ever entered the housing and to make sure everything is greased well and clean.

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  • Alc, Texas Deere and Horse, Talntedmrgreen and 7 others have said thanks

#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 03:59 PM

Thanks for documenting the work on your B1. Those tractors sure are constructed in a different way than the JDs, Cub Cadets etc. A very interesting and well built tractor! 


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#3 Talntedmrgreen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 04:08 PM

Sure looks like a low hour machine.


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#4 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 04:31 PM

That is a very nice tractor. The old shop tools show up at the swap meets. I go to a half dozen each year in my area. I've gotten very good deals on small engine tools at automotive swaps because most people are only interested in the big engines. Good Luck, Rick


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#5 AfterShock95 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 04:47 PM

What kind of grease did you use in the diff cluster
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#6 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 05:00 PM

I just came in to grab a hot cup of coffee and I think I'll call it a day. I think this B1 stayed in such good shape since it was never used to mow with. It looks like the dirt build up is from tilling. The original raw hide crankshaft seal has been leaking for some time, and there was a lot of oil coating the inside of the frame. My plans are to keep this tractor as original as possible, so I'm carefully cleaning it to preserve the paint.
I'll definitely be looking for Briggs tools and I may even look for a boring machine. I've been thinking about this for a while and it would be a blast! I would have to find the equipment on the cheap to justify it, though.

#7 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 05:21 PM

I used liquid wrench multi-purpose grease in the differential for now, and I put some 80-90 gear oil in with it to thin out the old grease that was already in the housing. After I run the tractor for a bit, I'm going to change the transaxle fluid again, and flush out the differential cluster gear housing. I want to put a high pressure type grease in the differential cluster gear housing when the time comes.
These differential cluster gears are pretty tough. The gears in my other B1 are in great shape, even though the tractor was used heavily with a 10" plow. The axle tube and axle tube bushings are completely worn out in that one, though. The main thing is to keep the differential bolts properly torqued. These are the two bolts on the RH hub that control the differential action.

#8 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 05:38 PM

Here are some better pics of that heavily used differential assembly. There is some wear, but this differential is still in great shape and serviceable.

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#9 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 06:11 PM

The cost of a boring machine is hard to justify. I have one that I inherited 36 years ago. I haven't used it yet. The cylinder hone has been good enough. Valve grinding equipment is less expensive and used alot more. Keep looking and tell friends what you want, you will be suprised what people have hiding in their garages. Good Luck, Rick 


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#10 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 06:54 PM

The only way I would pick up a boring machine is if it was real cheap. You're right, boyscout, investing a ton of money in one would not be worth it. My friend has a complete Black and Decker valve and valve seat grinding set up. He said when he decides to let it go he'll offer it to me. I plan on working on these old tractors for quite some time, so the more tools the better!

#11 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2015 - 06:00 PM

I spent some more time getting the grunge off and there's a lot of good original paint under it. I still have more areas to clean up, but the bulk of it is done. The mower shop is installing my new exhaust valve guide today, so it looks like I'll be getting the engine back together and running shortly.

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#12 classic ONLINE  

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Posted April 09, 2015 - 03:56 PM

I'm finally getting back to the B1. I got a little side tracked With a couple of other tractors, not to mention the fiasco with the mower shop grinding my valve stem tips all screwy on my NOS valves. I ordered another pair of NOS valves and set the valve lash and lapped them in today. The valve lash is set at .007 for the intake valve and .014 for the exhaust valve. I also honed the cylinder and the block is ready for a hot soap and water bath. Always scrub the bore after honing with hot soap and water to remove the honing stone particles. I'll be putting the engine and tractor back together over the weekend, so I can move on to working on the Gard'n Mast'r Jr.

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