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#1 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2015 - 12:13 AM

I've been tearing down my Speedex last couple days. Most of tin is off now, cept the rear pan, as it has all the hoses running up thru a big hole in it. Will be coming off, just didn't wanna mess with the oil today. I want to get it down to power-wash it This thing has a short driveshaft between engine and hydro motor. Two rag joints. I was looking at it to turn and see if trans would move and found it to be real sloppy on the hydro shaft, yet it didn't just pull off. Plastic fan on that end with big spring. SO, pulled back on fan which was hard to do and keep back, found a snap ring way out on edge. Hmmm! Thinking might have to remove that to let fan move and see a set screw or pin??? So got that ring off and also found cut-out in fan hub or it was broken out maybe. Anyway, with that slid ahead was able to see what looked like set-screw hole. NO allan would fit it seemed, metric included. Finally got light and found the screw WAS moving, but not coming out. Ended up drilling it out and still had to drive it off the shaft after it pulled half way easy. After off, found a sheared key in the shaft and a BIG hole and was made bigger by flopping for long time in the set-screw hole.  The pulley keyway was worn one way, say 3/8" slop!  Key hole was also way big right up by shaft area, about same distance and found some set screw end there. SO, has been wobbling awhile and messed up both peices. Think the hydro shaft will be OK, with good key. It came out easy and no damage to the slot in shaft. Set-screw hole is kinda big and deeper than stock. Hoping maybe a bigger screw would be used there and be good. But now when I found that keyway damage in pulley, think it can't be used. I have no way of fixing in mind. I have the Other tractor to check on for that part next.

 

   I was also turning the input shaft on hydro by hand and there is no movement of anything at wheels. Is it just because I can't spin fast enough or a problem?  I would like to use my drill to turn, but would have to make up a coupling to get from 3/4" down to 1/2 to fit the drill, then even that is a slow drill. Should that work?  Or will I need a faster drill and make it down to 3/8" to do that? 

 

  Can a hub center be bought that fits the 3/4" shaft on hydro that you need to weld on the pulleys or spockets and maybe mount my coupler blades for joint on it?  Would think the keyway's would be same sizes for the shaft?  Maybe Would need to drill and tap to move set-screw to the side and on good metal of shaft? OR, does that screw need to pull directly accross from the keyway?



#2 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2015 - 12:18 AM

Forgot to ask on filling the trans on this thing. I see a big breather on back of unit, which I think might be a dipstick on other models, but it doesn't come out, just has a loose head like breathers do. Just below that is a pipe plug, which might be the level plug. Found the drain underneath unit. Not sure yet if another plug to fill, or just have to use the level plug till it runs out? I want to try to run/test this thing and may need to add oil, not sure  yet. Would like to change it anyway, just don't want to add all new and find it doesn't work. Haven't looked in manual yet, but those are pretty skimpy on any maintainance procedures.



#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2015 - 06:33 AM

You can get hub centres with different drive shaft sizes and a standard pulley/sprocket mount. They come for pulleys and sprockets and I know that you can get the pulley ones where the pulley bolts on, so no welding required. Princess Auto , a Canadian chain sells them. You buy the hub and the pulley you need and bolt them together. Not sure where you would get them in the US.


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#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2015 - 07:06 AM

GL, could you drive the shaft with a pulley and belt mock up to the drill?
I would say you'd have to hand crank for quite a while to move any oil and there's probably some loss in an older system.
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#5 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2015 - 07:34 AM

I have used a drill to test an old hydro.  It does turn the hydro slow, but fast enough to see that it does spin the axles and raise the lift.  I used a short piece of heavy thick-wall tubing slid over the input shaft of the hydro, then slipped a large enough drill bit into the other end, and tightened them with water hose clamps.  Has to be a strong drill though!


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#6 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2015 - 12:38 PM

Hose I was thinking, but how to make smaller at drill! Yeah! I have big drills up to 1" with 1/2" shaft, sounds like the way to go.

 

I DID look at manual and not much there on filling. Just says fill to  plug, no picture. Takes 7qts of 10w 30 oil with filter change.

 

Looking at parts diagrams I don't even see a set-screw mentioned or shown on that part. Is there change at pump, it should just slip on and is allowed to move some then?  The shaft is pretty short and has only the rag joints to move, otherwise not movable. The engine side has two set-screws and key in it's drive end. Think it could be all that is needed? With new key in pump end and maybe fixing the slot or making new one in it in diff place might work?  Have to find someone to broach that new slot. Not sure who does such things?  But that  end was sloppy on the shaft, so think new coupler is really gonna be needed now that I rethink that. The shaft on pump looks fine and round, good keyway, just that bad hole for the set-screw still in it. Hope wouldn't be a weak spot then.


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#7 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2015 - 05:29 PM

Cleaned up tractor today, see other posting for those pix. Note that the rear big breather looks like it would unscrew from case and maybe be place to fill and use funnel? What think?

 

Ol Cow Hand, thanks for idea. Went out today and did that right away. At first, nothing, then started to drag some. No movement at first, then later see wheels ding a tiny roll. Then tried reverse on drill and it rolled faster, forward and reverse. Implement lift was weak at first, then started to move faster. By then the rubber tube was wanting to just twist up when under the load. When I re-thought the engine direction, it DOES move it CCW the way engine is placed in tractor, so relieved that wasn't a problem. Ran a few more times, everything works OK I believe, but would be better with faster input, I'm sure.

 

Also got spark on the engine now. Wasn't at first, then put driver in the plug cap, got a jolt, THEN, tried another plug and good to go on the spark. Still need to hook up wire right way, will be easier now with clean engine. Thanks!


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#8 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2015 - 07:08 PM

Yes, the hose, once pressure starts to build good sure does twist up bad, but to test, it usually lasts long enough.  Glad your unit did work.






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