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Kubota BX 2370-1 cab build.


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#1 massey driver OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2015 - 07:55 PM

Got started on the cab for my Kubota BX 2370-1. I would have started sooner but the flu and sicatic is keeping me from really getting going. I made the rear mounts that utilize the ROPS mounting bolts. I made the mounts yesterday and painted them so they'd be ready to install today. First thing I did was realize that I didn't make them long enough, sure I could have mounted the cab to the shorter ones but I wouldn't have been able to lift  the front of the cab up and have it tip backwards for easy removeable. So I had to cut the mounts apart and add in 2".What a pain to have to redo stuff like that. At least I've gotten started. Painted up the longer mounts and will install them tommoro then I'll beable to start with some of the back frame work.

Attached Thumbnails

  • cab mounts 002 (Small).jpg
  • cab mounts 004 (Small).jpg
  • cab mounts 005 (Small).jpg

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#2 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2015 - 09:37 PM

Cool! Can't wait to see how this turns out. I admire you guys who take on projects like this. I think a Project like this would be fun. A lot of work but fun.

Edited by David Brown, March 12, 2015 - 09:38 PM.

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#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2015 - 07:35 AM

Nice project and thanks for posting. It will be interesting to see a cab constructed from scratch! 



#4 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2015 - 07:48 AM

Looking forward to following along on your build.

I've got a Kubota B2710, that I'd like to enclose at some point.

Sorry to hear about your sciatic troubles. I know what you're going

through. Since mid Sept, it's been running my life. Any relief in site?



#5 massey driver OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2015 - 06:28 PM

Put the mounts in place and started making the rear cab frame. The mounts are designed so that the cab can be installed and removed just by taking pins off.The whole cab will roll over onto saw horses,pull the pins and move the tractor away. The rear frame is quite time consuming to make.I have to make sure that when the 3 pth arms are up and the top link is moving up as well,there not going to be hitting the cab frame.At the same time I have to make it so that I can close up the gaps to stop cold air infiltration.I'am able to make this cab tapered the top of the frame is 3" narrower then the lower part. The upper part of the frame is going to have a opening window and the lower part is going to be lexan .Here's pic's of what I was able to get done today.

Attached Thumbnails

  • cab mount pivot.jpg
  • rear cab frame 4.jpg
  • rear cab frame 1.jpg
  • rear cab frame 2.jpg
  • rear cab frame 3.jpg

Edited by massey driver, March 13, 2015 - 08:25 PM.

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#6 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2015 - 09:29 PM

I'm not sure that you want your cab thermos bottle tight. Some air flow will help to keep things from fogging up. 



#7 massey driver OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2015 - 07:58 AM

I'm not sure that you want your cab thermos bottle tight. Some air flow will help to keep things from fogging up. 

I'll never beable to seal it up that tight.Shift levers have big gaps,under the seat is all open,so I'll try and close all those areas up as good as I can. The cab on my Massey is closed up as good as I could get it to be and there's still enough air coming in.The heater does keep me comfortable enough that I can work without gloves plus my feet stay warm so thats all I strive to get for heat.


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#8 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2015 - 08:14 AM

Do you planning on adding to this one? How do you get the coolant lines routed with such a tight engine enclosure?



#9 massey driver OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2015 - 06:35 PM

Do you planning on adding to this one? How do you get the coolant lines routed with such a tight engine enclosure?

For sure this one will have a heater. Off the side of the thermostat housing is a plug that I'll put a fitting into and I believe that just under the injection pump is a plug in the engine block. What quite a few have been doing for the hose's is to remove the bypass hose and feed one to the heater core and the other one from the heater core goes to the other side of the bypass hose. The bypass hose is only 3/8" but it can be stepped up to 5/8" or 3/4" by using step up adapters.



#10 massey driver OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2015 - 06:50 PM

Today was a fantastic day out the weather was something like 17 c out and sunny . I only spent a couple hrs working on the rear cab frame today.I added in some 3/4" flat steel bar to act as a mount for the lexan behind the seat covering the 3 pth arms etc. Of course I spent a couple hrs on the Kubota moving some snow and opening up the water drains. I just couldn't bring myself to work to hard on the cab,main reason is my lower back is pretty sore due to the siatic . I enjoyed my seat time today more so then working on the cab fabrication. Some pics showing the 3/4" flat bar also took a pic of the cab taper.

Attached Thumbnails

  • rear frame braces 001 (Small).jpg
  • rear frame braces 004 (Small).jpg
  • rear frame braces 002 (Small).jpg

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#11 massey driver OFFLINE  

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Posted March 20, 2015 - 08:40 PM

Been working on the cab a bit.I closed in the tubing ends with 3/4" flat bar,makes it look better. Bent some tubing for the lower frame  yesterday. The part that follows the rear fenders took some time to bend. I used my portable tubing bender with the jig for square tubing. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • lower cab frame 001 (Small).jpg
  • lower cab frame 003 (Small).jpg
  • lower cab frame 004 (Small).jpg
  • lower cab frame 002 (Small).jpg


#12 massey driver OFFLINE  

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Posted March 20, 2015 - 08:45 PM

Today I was able to bend the lower front part of the frame and weld them together plus also weld them to the rear frame.As you can see the cab rolls over and sits on the saw horse making it easy to remove the cab plus install it.What you also can see is that the lower frame is narrower at the rear frame and sort of bellies out further ahead.There's a reason I did this ,I needed to keep the frame at the back as narrow as possible in order to clear the grass catcher tubes , when the grass catcher is installed.

Attached Thumbnails

  • lower cab frame 005 (Small).jpg
  • lower cab frame 006 (Small).jpg
  • lower cab frame 007 (Small).jpg

Edited by massey driver, March 20, 2015 - 08:54 PM.

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#13 massey driver OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2015 - 05:28 PM

Made the front mounts the other day. Took some thinking before I figured out how to make them. I didn't want to drill any holes in the loader mount so I made the cab frame mount fit the loader mount.There's one 3/8" bolt holding the frame mount to the loader mount.What you can't see is that where the big 1 1/8" hole thats  in the loader mount I welded a piece of pipe to the back side of the sq tubing so it keeps the frame mount from moving around. I started making the front part of the cab frame today.

Attached Thumbnails

  • front mount 001.jpg
  • frame mount 002.jpg
  • front frame 002 (Small).jpg
  • front frame 003.jpg
  • front frame side view.jpg

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#14 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2015 - 06:03 PM

Coming right along nicely.

So, to tilt the cab back, you only remove these bolts?

 

MD mount.jpg



#15 massey driver OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2015 - 06:44 PM

Coming right along nicely.

So, to tilt the cab back, you only remove these bolts?

 

attachicon.gifMD mount.jpg

Remove that single bolt on each side and the cab will flip over onto the saw horse then pull the two pins and push the tractor away.






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