Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Snapper 1855A Transmission


  • Please log in to reply
9 replies to this topic

#1 adamscr OFFLINE  

adamscr

    Member

  • Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2081
  • 1 Thanks
  • 29 posts

Posted March 11, 2015 - 01:48 PM

I did a search on Snapper 1855 transmission but found nothing related to my needs.  If this duplicates someone elses post then I apologize.

 

I have a Snapper 1855A with what I fear is a failing hydro.  It has always had an issue where if you're going downhill it would almost run away and then the hydro would "get a grip" and it would slow back down.  This winter I tried using it several times and it just wouldn't move.  When it did it was jerky and the pedal actually seemed to push back.  After it warmed up it seemed okay.

 

I happen to have the transaxle from a Ford LGT17 I'd kept after scrapping the rest of the tractor.  All appearances are they are basically the same.  The major difference is that the Ford was offset and one axle is longer than the other.  My first thought was to swap the axles and housings but it appears there is a clip that holds the axles into the diff gear and I'd have to crack the tranny apart.  My other option is to pull the hydro from the transaxle to swap them.

 

My desire is to get the opinions of the people in the know as to which route to take and gather any other info people are willing to part with.

 

My thanks to everyone!



#2 TAHOE ONLINE  

TAHOE
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 24522
  • 6,491 Thanks
  • 4,947 posts
  • Location: "Hamiltucky" Ohio

Posted March 11, 2015 - 02:15 PM

I haven't had to work on mine, I know some guys on here have though.

There was a recent discussion about this recently on here I think, in the last 2-3 months, someone else was trying to swap between tow different pumps

Member TUDOR has extensive experience with that tranny/hydro pump.


  • adamscr said thank you

#3 adamscr OFFLINE  

adamscr

    Member

  • Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2081
  • 1 Thanks
  • 29 posts

Posted March 11, 2015 - 02:45 PM

Thanks!  I'll try to send him a message.



#4 TUDOR OFFLINE  

TUDOR

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 915
  • 543 Thanks
  • 497 posts
  • Location: Sault Ste Marie, Ontario

Posted March 12, 2015 - 03:26 AM

Swapping the Eatons should not stretch your skills.

 

Diagnosing the problem takes some thought.

 

Sluggish operation is probably cold temperature and relatively high viscosity fluid..

 

Freewheeling down slope requires some back pedaling to load the hydro motor for better braking.

 

Soft and hard pedal indicates either air in the system or low fluid level. Check the line from the reservoir to the hydro for bad hose ends or other sources for air to enter the negative pressure in the line. It may or may not be indicated by a corresponding fluid leak when the engine is off. The filter gasket and charge pump seals are also on the list of suspects.

 

It is a possibility that air in the system is causing all 3 issues, but I'm not betting on it. Low fluid level is high on my list for one of them.

 

Check these out before swapping hydros. A fresh hydro won't help if there is an air leak left on the existing setup.


  • limebuzz, adamscr, KennyP and 1 other said thanks

#5 noclue OFFLINE  

noclue

    New Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 8104
  • 57 Thanks
  • 45 posts
  • Location: Holmen,WI

Posted March 12, 2015 - 01:30 PM

the manual says to check the fluid when its WARM. and check the belts to make sure they are not slipping.


  • adamscr said thank you

#6 adamscr OFFLINE  

adamscr

    Member

  • Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2081
  • 1 Thanks
  • 29 posts

Posted March 12, 2015 - 01:53 PM

Thanks!  I'd not considered an air leak.  I'll take a closer look.  The temperature is getting warmer so it'll probably move okay now.  I'll check the level again.

 

Thanks,

Canie



#7 adamscr OFFLINE  

adamscr

    Member

  • Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2081
  • 1 Thanks
  • 29 posts

Posted March 12, 2015 - 02:58 PM

Looks like I may be done as far as swapping anything.  On closer inspection it appears the Snapper has a splined input shaft where the Ford is keyed.  Crap!



#8 TUDOR OFFLINE  

TUDOR

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 915
  • 543 Thanks
  • 497 posts
  • Location: Sault Ste Marie, Ontario

Posted March 12, 2015 - 06:55 PM

Looks like I may be done as far as swapping anything.  On closer inspection it appears the Snapper has a splined input shaft where the Ford is keyed.  Crap!

 

And the solution is . . . swap out the input shafts. They're only different on the outside of the case.

 

The splined shafts and pulleys on my GT gave me nothing but grief to the point that I replaced all the critical shafts with keyed shafts and the pulleys with cast iron. The only shaft left is the one in the hydro and a replacement keyed shaft is sitting on my bench.

 

My PTO's are still splined, but I haven't used them for about 20 years..


  • limebuzz, adamscr and ENafziger have said thanks

#9 adamscr OFFLINE  

adamscr

    Member

  • Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2081
  • 1 Thanks
  • 29 posts

Posted March 13, 2015 - 04:05 PM

I appreciate the info but I'd prefer not getting my fingers into any more than necessary.  I've been known to do more damage than good.

 

I was thinking of trying to replace the whole drive shaft.  The pulley end was juryrigged before I got the unit where the splines were worn off so someone welded something around the shaft and replaced the pulley with a single V.  Needless to say the belt was constantly slipping so I replaced the single V with a dual V made of cast.  When the shaft was welded it was not done very precisely so the pulley is not running smoothly.  I have seen small U-joints online so I believe I could get some 1" shaft and have keyways cut to accommodate the pulley and U-joint.  This way I could replace the whole shaft with a better arrangement.


  • limebuzz said thank you

#10 TUDOR OFFLINE  

TUDOR

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 915
  • 543 Thanks
  • 497 posts
  • Location: Sault Ste Marie, Ontario

Posted March 14, 2015 - 02:52 AM

That's the correct way to go.

 

When I redid my drive shaft, I didn't have the new input shaft and had to conjure up an adapter in the universal for the splined shaft. It served well for over 15 years, but has outlived its usefulness.






Top