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Any thoughts on this ujoint from an Eliminator?


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#1 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2015 - 11:37 AM

Well I decided to go in a pull the drive shaft out of my 1669. I thought that I may be able to replace the ujoints. It appears that there is no retainer clip anywhere on this thing. There appears to be some sort of bushing in the yoke. The yoke has been damaged on the female drive shaft but I have a spare if I need to use it. None of these have grease fittings.....  Has anyone ever replaced ujoints in these yokes or are these throw away units? Here are a few pictures and thank you for any ideas on this.

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#2 ClassicBolens ONLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2015 - 11:57 AM

These are throw away units that were supplied by Weasler to Bolens and others. There is no suitable replacement u-joint available.  

 

Save the 3/4 x 7/8 shaft stock and the round slip sleeve. 

 

Go to TSC, Rural King, Farm & Fleet or whatever farm stores you've got. Buy new standard Neapco, Weasler, Rockford...  either 6N or 1000 series yoke ends and u-joints. You'll need a 1" end yoke for the engine, a 3/4 x 7/8" yoke for the shaft, a 3/4" end yoke for the hydro, another yoke for the slip sleeve. You'll need to have the 3/4" yoke end for the hydro end machined to accommodate the hydro fan. Have one yoke machined to fit into the round slip sleeve stock. Any machine shop should easily be able to put this together for you, if you don't have the means to do so yourself. Being that this drive shaft is telescopic, you shouldn't have any problem with the overall length. 


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#3 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2015 - 11:59 AM

That is awesome info. Thank you very much. I will proceed from here. 


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#4 ClassicBolens ONLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2015 - 12:06 PM

If I still had my equipment, I'd tell you to send it to me and I'd build you a new one myself. I've built literally hundreds of these new drive shafts over the years. 


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#5 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2015 - 12:14 PM

Yea, I had same issue with my MF 1855, ujoints were froze up, no replacements. Took it to a local driveshaft shop, they built me a new one using larger replaceable joints.


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#6 Jazz ONLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2015 - 05:35 PM

If I still had my equipment, I'd tell you to send it to me and I'd build you a new one myself. I've built literally hundreds of these new drive shafts over the years. 

 

I can't find them at all at any of the stores you mentioned.. No doubt I am not searching correctly. Could you say what you search under.  All I can see are universal joints for ratchets..  I have sourced u_joints for other projects from steering columns of cars.  Some of my u-joints i have had to buy Sweet tm u-joints as they can operate at larger angle. Likely not a concern for garden tractors that are not travelling 100mph



#7 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2015 - 06:20 PM

Here are some pages from the Precision PTO U Joint catalog that may help - most suppliers should be able to cross reference these numbers.

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#8 ClassicBolens ONLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2015 - 10:43 PM

From the pdf file that 29 Chev posted, a simple example for the 1669 drive shaft would be with the 1500 Series (Standard Series 1000)

 

Standard 2-1/2" long yokes:

qty 1 #1511 3/4" end yoke with 3/16" key way. will need machined to accommodate the hydro fan - on page 20

qty 1 #1521 1" end yoke with 1/4" key way - will need located and cross drilled to match existing engine stub shaft for placement of safety bolt - on page 20

qty 1 #1558 - 3/4" x 7/8" weld yoke - to weld onto the existing 3/4 x 7/8 shaft - on page 23

qty 1 #1786 - round weld yoke - to weld to your existing round slip yoke - on page 23

qty 2 of the #338 cross & bearing kits - with grease fitting in the joint.

 

These are for the Precision brand yokes and u-joints from this pdf file. I used this for reference only. There are many pto driveline companies that offer similar products, such as neapco, spicer, weasler and others. You may also want to check with your local NAPA stores, as they may also carry some of these. 

 

I do not recommend that anyone attempt to build their own drive shaft with out the proper tools and working knowledge of these components. If you've ever had a driveshaft fail while sitting on a running tractor, you'd completely understand  :wallbanging:


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#9 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2015 - 06:45 AM

Classic Bolens thank you for taking the time to post you information. I spent and hour last night trying to sift through all the catalogs that I downloaded and finally gave up. This will be very helpful. I may just look for a local shop that can build one for me. I have the old one as a sample.


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#10 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2015 - 10:20 AM

G & G Manufacturing has everything you would need, also. Are we talking the 3/4 x 7/8 shaft, the 15 spline, or a combination?

#11 ClassicBolens ONLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2015 - 11:17 AM

G&G offers some nice products, however I was not impressed with their PTO driveline components. Their yokes are carbon formed steel, as opposed to forged from the other brands. They are bulky and weighty. Their components don't play nice and interchange easily with others. The yokes are a pain to machine and yoke ears can be easily distorted.
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#12 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2015 - 11:52 AM

Classic Bolens, did I draw this correctly? Would the parts that you describe be the same as what I have drawn here? If so, this is a good start for me. I'll grind off the weld on the old 3/4 x 7/8 shaft and save that. I'm  not 100% clear on what the 1786 part is. Is that a yoke and 2" tubing?

 

I should be able to buy all the parts and then have a good weld shop a few miles from me get this all welded up. Would that work? Thanks again for all your help.

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Edited by Husky, March 10, 2015 - 11:56 AM.

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#13 ClassicBolens ONLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2015 - 12:31 PM

Looks correct to me. If you grind the weld off of your existing 2" tube and save it, #1786 would be the new yoke that you would weld back into it.


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