Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

1256 wont crank.


  • Please log in to reply
45 replies to this topic

#31 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,701 Thanks
  • 17,208 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted March 14, 2011 - 04:56 AM

This one?
Untitled.jpg

#32 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,701 Thanks
  • 17,208 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted March 14, 2011 - 05:13 AM

If your switch is the one in the diagram above, I checked pricing on a new switch and got $62

#33 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

Bruce Dorsi

    Old, but not dead -- yet!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1525
  • 3,179 Thanks
  • 2,148 posts
  • Location: New Jersey

Posted March 14, 2011 - 08:38 AM

Theres a blue wire that runs from the ammeter to the starter solenoid, someone added a fuse to this wire, and that fuse keeps blowing. This tell me I have a short somewhere, but I can find one.



Bolens used two different solenoids, and they are NOT interchangeable.

One style was grounded internally, while the other style got grounded through the solenoid mounting (base).

If the wrong solenoid is used, I think the fuse will blow when the switch is activated.

I believe the two different part numbers were 1709173 and 1717048. ( I'm doing this from memory as I don't have my manuals in front of me.)
  • Bolens 1000 and bread320i have said thanks

#34 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

Bruce Dorsi

    Old, but not dead -- yet!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1525
  • 3,179 Thanks
  • 2,148 posts
  • Location: New Jersey

Posted March 14, 2011 - 09:45 AM

One style was grounded internally, while the other style got grounded through the solenoid mounting (base).



CORRECTION: One style of solenoid is grounded through its mounting base and requires 12v POSITIVE to energize the solenoid.

The other style of solenoid has the windings connected internally to the large solenoid post marked "BAT." .....This style of solenoid requires the small terminal to be grounded through the key switch when in the START position.
  • Bolens 1000 said thank you

#35 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,701 Thanks
  • 17,208 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted March 14, 2011 - 08:02 PM

Thanks Bruce
I didnt know two different styles were used.

#36 WQDL753 OFFLINE  

WQDL753

    Bolensholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1407
  • 59 Thanks
  • 301 posts
  • Location: Beaver, PA

Posted March 17, 2011 - 12:56 AM

Reguardless of witch print your wired to, the ammeter does not affect your starting circuit.
I would point my finger at the regulater.
There shouldn't be current going through the ammeter untill the starter/generator is in "generator" mode, and that's controlled be the regulator.
Open it up, you might find it's just a sticky contact or a broken/weak spring, but I'd bet it's the cullprit.
  • Alc said thank you

#37 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,458 Thanks
  • 6,625 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted March 17, 2011 - 05:44 AM

There shouldn't be current going through the ammeter untill the starter/generator is in "generator" mode, and that's controlled be the regulator.

Thanks for explaining about the current during " Start" . is that what the black wire from the solinoid to the regulator is for , to keep it out of the charging mode while cranking ?

#38 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,458 Thanks
  • 6,625 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted March 17, 2011 - 10:21 AM





Thanks for explaining about the current during " Start" . is that what the black wire from the solinoid to the regulator is for , to keep it out of the charging mode while cranking ?


Never mind , that wire must be the generator to regulator feed .

#39 WQDL753 OFFLINE  

WQDL753

    Bolensholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1407
  • 59 Thanks
  • 301 posts
  • Location: Beaver, PA

Posted March 19, 2011 - 02:17 AM

Never mind , that wire must be the generator to regulator feed .

Right, on the battery side of the solinoid there is two wires, that makes a direct link from the + side of the batt. through the meter to the B terminal of the regulator, that is the charging output. The L terminal is designed to run the lights, and meby provide power to the ignition coil. On the downstream side of the solinoid thee is another two wires(including the black one you mentioned), when the solinoid is closed power goes to the A terminal from the batt. to make it spin, the regulator does nothing. When the solinoid is open and the engine is spinning the start/gen. then it sends current out from the A terminal to the regulator. The regulator then manipulates the connection to the F (field windings) to ground to meet the needs on the L and B outputs. The more it has to provide is less HP you have left over to do work.
O.k. now that I've babbled enugh. Have you mapped your switch, and what type of solenoid do you have?
Now that I've looked at it some more, it could be how your switch is wired causing problems...
  • Alc said thank you

#40 bread320i OFFLINE  

bread320i
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 416
  • 593 Thanks
  • 1,220 posts
  • Location: Richfield Wisconsin

Posted March 19, 2011 - 06:25 AM

I have to buy a new switch first and install it. I will post my progess, but it will take a few days. Spring is coming and I have a few decks to work on.

#41 Bigdaddydon ONLINE  

Bigdaddydon

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1755
  • 75 Thanks
  • 229 posts
  • Location: St louis Missouri

Posted March 19, 2011 - 11:17 PM

I am working on the wiring of my 1256. I have it all wired using the same switch I was using before I tore it apart. I keep blowing the fuse when turning the key to the run position. Again I am using a switch that worked before. I am going to take the regulator apart and see what that looks like.

Question? 1)If the solenoid is not properly grounded could that cause the problem? How?

Question? 2)What would cause the fuse to blow if the blue wire is not supposed to have voltage until the engine is running?

Jumping across the solenoid does get the starter to turn over. I opened the regulator and it looks clean and the contacts are good. Both contacts seem to move easy enough. Is there a test that can be run on the regulator to see if it is OK. I cant check it with the switch because the fuse will blow before the regulator can be tested.

Edited by Bigdaddydon, March 19, 2011 - 11:49 PM.


#42 Bigdaddydon ONLINE  

Bigdaddydon

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1755
  • 75 Thanks
  • 229 posts
  • Location: St louis Missouri

Posted March 19, 2011 - 11:59 PM

The only thing I could think of now is the voltage regulator is bad or grounding out. There is two relays in the regulator I think one or the other is stuck in the closed position and causing the short. Hope thi helps!


How do you determine if it is supposed to be closed or open. On mine it looks like one is making contact and the other not but is that how they are supposed to be. They both move easy enough when touched.

#43 Bigdaddydon ONLINE  

Bigdaddydon

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1755
  • 75 Thanks
  • 229 posts
  • Location: St louis Missouri

Posted March 20, 2011 - 12:37 AM

Right, on the battery side of the solinoid there is two wires, that makes a direct link from the + side of the batt. through the meter to the B terminal of the regulator, that is the charging output. The L terminal is designed to run the lights, and meby provide power to the ignition coil. On the downstream side of the solinoid thee is another two wires(including the black one you mentioned), when the solinoid is closed power goes to the A terminal from the batt. to make it spin, the regulator does nothing. When the solinoid is open and the engine is spinning the start/gen. then it sends current out from the A terminal to the regulator. The regulator then manipulates the connection to the F (field windings) to ground to meet the needs on the L and B outputs. The more it has to provide is less HP you have left over to do work.
O.k. now that I've babbled enugh. Have you mapped your switch, and what type of solenoid do you have?
Now that I've looked at it some more, it could be how your switch is wired causing problems...


I don't want to take over the post its just that we are both having the same problem. In the attached diagram when I test across the designated terminals with the ohm meter I get an appropriate beep in all positions. The only question is when in the off position I get no beep anywhere. I believe that is correct because there should be no contact inside the switch.

Attached Thumbnails

  • scan0001.jpg


#44 bread320i OFFLINE  

bread320i
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 416
  • 593 Thanks
  • 1,220 posts
  • Location: Richfield Wisconsin

Posted March 20, 2011 - 07:11 AM

I changed the switch out for a 3 spade switch. I also cut off the 5 spade pig tail and wired up the switch using the lables on the back side. I will need to add a switch for the ignition, but I havent done that because I cant find the ignition mod. or the wires. Im wondering if they are behind the engine shroud?

#45 bread320i OFFLINE  

bread320i
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 416
  • 593 Thanks
  • 1,220 posts
  • Location: Richfield Wisconsin

Posted March 20, 2011 - 03:53 PM

I hooked everything up today, and cranked it over with spark. So Im headed in the right direction. Now I want to clean the carb, and change the oil before I hear it run.




Top