Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

advice for painting cast iron


  • Please log in to reply
10 replies to this topic

#1 Salatino OFFLINE  

Salatino

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1100
  • 29 Thanks
  • 188 posts
  • Location: Cincinnati ohio

Posted March 11, 2011 - 09:18 PM

hey everyone I'm not sure if this is the right place for this question but thought I would put it here anyways. Now I know its all in the prepwork but what brand,type of primer would you reccomend for painting cast iron? I'm no painter my any means! haha I'm not looking for a show finish or anything like that. I'm just looking for a fairly decent paint job on my gt. I've been spending alot of time cleanin it up and preppin it to paint it. Every peice has either been sandblasted "depending on size " or wire wheeled down to bare metal. There was so many coats of paint on my cub it was crazy. Some of the peices I've painted a while back was done in rustoleum & some in rustoleum filler primer. ,as far as color goes I'm usin Krylon " Old Equipment Yellow " I'm no expert but it seems tyo go on good for me and its not to exspensive,5.30 / can or somthing like that. NOt to mention I can go grab a few cans at a time when I need it. I try not to buy in bulk and sit on it. And yeah if ur wondering rimer is wet sanded b4 color. Any info would be nice. Thanks again for all your help

#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,653 Thanks
  • 29,840 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted March 11, 2011 - 09:22 PM

I would just use Krylon indoor/outdoor primer. That way you know it's perfectly compatible with your paint. I use the el-cheapo walmart brand gray primer for all my GT painting & it does amazingly well, and I'm shooting acrylic enamels over it.
  • Salatino said thank you

#3 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,464 Thanks
  • 15,392 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted March 11, 2011 - 10:02 PM

The MAIN thing, is MAKE SURE IT'S CLEAN... I always wash down the parts with the same paint solvent that thin my paint with. Even with blasting and wire wheeling, there can still be oils in and on the parts. If you don't get them off, The paint will not stick. As Daniel said, I use a cheap primer with great results.. Hope the helps..
  • Salatino said thank you

#4 Salatino OFFLINE  

Salatino

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1100
  • 29 Thanks
  • 188 posts
  • Location: Cincinnati ohio

Posted March 11, 2011 - 10:30 PM

The MAIN thing, is MAKE SURE IT'S CLEAN... I always wash down the parts with the same paint solvent that thin my paint with. Even with blasting and wire wheeling, there can still be oils in and on the parts. If you don't get them off, The paint will not stick. As Daniel said, I use a cheap primer with great results.. Hope the helps..




You know I forgot to mention that i do clean all parts with mineral spirits. I probably go overboard with it but I get off I'd say about 99.9% of the oil residue,I'll wipe it down untill I dont see any black/grey residue on the rags. somtimes it takesforever to do it this way but it seems to be working good for me. after I get it all of I go over it with a new clean towl and wipe it off very good. Then you know blow it off with the air compresser. Oh yeah since its been kinda cold the fe small peices I have painted I had put a small heater infront of the parts to warm them up a lil bit. not hot but warm. take the heat off and hit it when its just warm. I just wanted it as clean as possible and tried to paint it while the steel was warm and not cold. Didnt want it cracking or peeling. but hey thanks for the info. any more ideas would be great. thanks

#5 Salatino OFFLINE  

Salatino

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1100
  • 29 Thanks
  • 188 posts
  • Location: Cincinnati ohio

Posted March 11, 2011 - 10:34 PM

thanks again! I was thinking about tryin a lil steam on the cast to see if that would help clean it a lil bit. I've got one of them sharks and it does a good job clean other stuff. but then again I"m not sure if I want to mess with it, but after I would still cleanit with a solvent and all that good stuff. whatcha think about tryin the steam cleaner on it, I would think it would help draw out some of the oild & residue off the cast right? maybe not. haha tell me what you think

#6 WQDL753 OFFLINE  

WQDL753

    Bolensholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1407
  • 59 Thanks
  • 301 posts
  • Location: Beaver, PA

Posted March 12, 2011 - 03:44 AM

I would not recomend steam cleaning in the final stages of prep. Earlier on, yea. But after the last sandblast/sanding/wirebrush/steelwool treatment, wipe with solvent and/or tac rag and get primer on it. Now, not later. If you put steam to it after exposing brite metal, it will rust before you can take another sip of beer....

Oh, I almost forgot, if your using air to blow of the parts it better be clean and dry, but there's a few hunderad pages here about that. lmao
  • Salatino said thank you

#7 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 12,701 Thanks
  • 17,208 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted March 12, 2011 - 07:50 AM

:ditto: the above replies

I use the cheap primer and I have good results when painting my cast iron tranny and front end.

#8 mikebramel OFFLINE  

mikebramel

    Ron Paul

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 82
  • 176 Thanks
  • 1,009 posts
  • Location: Milwaukee

Posted March 12, 2011 - 01:56 PM

Make sure its clean like said. Thats the MOST important step. If the metal flashes over a bit its nothing to worry about. Those spray can primers work good. If you went through all the trouble I would get some epoxy primer from southern polyurethanes. Worth the money.
  • Salatino said thank you

#9 Salatino OFFLINE  

Salatino

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1100
  • 29 Thanks
  • 188 posts
  • Location: Cincinnati ohio

Posted March 12, 2011 - 03:22 PM

well I might have to atleast looking into that! Thanks for the info. Like I mentioned above, Ive spent what most people would consider entirely way too much time in cleanin my parts. lol Even all the bolt & hardware I have went through and replaced all the bad pitted bolts with newer ones of other parts tractors. I wanted all nice hardware with ih stamped bolts on there. I really need to pick up another digital camera so I can show you guys my project.

#10 thecoater OFFLINE  

thecoater

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 757
  • 13 Thanks
  • 111 posts
  • Location: churchville ny

Posted March 12, 2011 - 03:32 PM

Powder Buy The Pound -Powder Coating Equipment and Supplies

apply this to blasted or new metal -its a conversion coating that will not allow rust to form on bare metal -if used right you will not get flash rust on your freshly stripped parts--in 100% form it will also remove the rust

I use this to apply it -but you could use a bug sprayer or an old spray rig for a few small parts
Rapid Engineering LLC Industrial Finishing ~ Pre-Treatment Stations

also you can use a hand torch to get rid of any lint from the rags -then blow off the residue

Edited by thecoater, March 12, 2011 - 03:37 PM.

  • Salatino said thank you

#11 Salatino OFFLINE  

Salatino

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1100
  • 29 Thanks
  • 188 posts
  • Location: Cincinnati ohio

Posted March 12, 2011 - 07:19 PM

you know I was thinking about that earlier, I know i've always heard before yuou weld cast iron you need to hit it with a torch to burn off some of the oil in the cast so u can weld on it, But yeah i agree with hittin it real quick with the torch to get the fibers from the rags. thats a good idea. thaks




Top