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New rings for the Allis B1 this weekend.


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#1 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2015 - 08:53 PM

I decided to remove the Briggs 19D from the B1 I bought last week ,so that I could convert it back to the original coil set up. I removed the blower housing and the original coil was gone. I installed a coil from a Briggs 23D that I saved, set the air gap, and gave the flywheel a spin. The coil works fine and puts out great spark. Now I can remove the car coil that was mounted to the top of the engine. The car coil worked great, but I want the B1 original.
I decided to remove the head to check the condition of the cylinder and valves. Everything looked to be in good shape, but I noticed that the head gasket was a little wet with oil in one area, and there was some carbon build up on the the piston, around the valves, and on the head. I slid a new ring down into the bore and the end gap was .011. Since I have a ring set, gasket set, and crank seals, I decided to tear the engine down and freshen it up. There is .0015 clearance between the connecting rod and crankshaft journal, so I will be installing the rod back in the engine.The piston is in great shape, so that will be reinstalled with new rings. I installed the old rings back in the block to see how worn they were. The top ring gap was .024, the middle ring gap was .021, and the bottom (oil ring) gap was .044. The reject spec for the top and middle ring is .026 and the reject spec for the oil ring is .026, also. The new top and middle rings have an end gap of .011 and the new oil ring has an end gap of .009 when installed in the bore before honing. A rering job will put everything back into spec and the engine should be fine for many more years of use. I'll be cleaning up the engine bay and the engine, but I don't plan on painting anything. The paint is in good shape, and I want to leave everything as original as possible. If anyone has an original Nelson muffler in excellent or NOS condition that they are willing to part with, please let me know.

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Edited by classic, March 06, 2015 - 10:39 PM.

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#2 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2015 - 09:30 PM

Looks like it was running good, by the look of the valves. Noel
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#3 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2015 - 09:42 PM

The engine ran great Noel, but some of the 52 year old gaskets need to be replaced. Overall the engine is in great shape and shows little wear. The crankshaft end play is .0045 and Briggs calls for anywhere between .002-.008. There are still cross hatch marks on the cylinder wall and no scoring.
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#4 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2015 - 10:10 PM

Wow, can't beat that. Noel.
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#5 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2015 - 02:46 PM

Bummer... I checked the condition of the valve guides and the exhaust valve guide has too much play in it. I was thinking about buying a reamer, reamer guide, and a new valve guide bushing and installing the insert myself. I called the old mower shop up the road and they found 5 Briggs 230655 valve guide inserts, and they will install one for me for 30 bucks. I might as well have them grind the valve seats and I'll order new valves, lap them in, and set the valve lash. It's a minor set back, but it will give me some time to clean everything up before installing the engine.
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#6 Talntedmrgreen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2015 - 06:56 PM

great write-up thank you... I need to do something with mine. its been sitting on the shelf where I set it in August after a quick rush job to drop a different engine and before the Laporte show. mine must be bad because the compression is so low it won't stay running with a load.
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#7 B10Dave OFFLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2015 - 07:17 PM

For your Nelson muffler try Sandy Lake Implements or Wells Implements. I think both stock the ones reproduced by 2 brothers and their cousin on Simple Tractors. They had a very good professional job done and I think they retail somewhere around $60....Dave


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#8 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2015 - 08:27 PM

Thanks Dave, I've seen them for sale and I hear that they are great mufflers. That's the direction I'll most likely go if an original doesn't turn up. Thanks Mrgreen, it's worth going over these engines completely, since there really is not much to them. I've come across worn valves, valve guides, rings, pistons, and rod journals. So far the crank journals have been in spec, and the blocks didn't need boring. This engine in the B1 is in the best condition of any engine I've pulled apart and I was surprised to see that the exhaust valve guide had play in it. The valve stem shows no wear when checking it with my calipers.
It would be great to get your B1 engine back in spec, and install it back in your forklift. That was an awesome project to see come together! The model 19 Briggs I rebuilt for the 62 Squire really grunts and has more power than I would expect from a 7.25 horse engine. It was definitely tired when I first bought it.
Anyway, it's good that I pulled the engine from the B1. The shielding on the heavy starter generator wire was worn through from the clutch linkage rod. Luckily I have a nice original wire to replace it with from my disassembled B1. I'm in the process of making sure that the wiring is where it belongs. I installed an original key switch to replace the two prong switch that was installed for use with the car coil. I still have a bunch of cleaning to do while I wait for the engine to have the valve guide installed.
I went on Craigslist last night and found wheel weights for the B1 and the seller also told me that he had a Simplicity grader blade that he only used once. I've been looking for a nice one for my 64 Landlord and I'll be picking it up tomorrow morning. It looks to be in nice shape!

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#9 VintageIronCollector ONLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2015 - 11:37 PM

I went on Craigslist last night and found wheel weights for the B1 and the seller also told me that he had a Simplicity grader blade that he only used once. I've been looking for a nice one for my 64 Landlord and I'll be picking it up tomorrow morning. It looks to be in nice shape!

Cool even has the optional places to push down on it with your feet.


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#10 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2015 - 12:25 AM

I've been after a grader blade and missed a nice one last summer. When the guy said that he had one and that he doesn't have the tractor, I said that I would buy it. I'm going just over 100 miles to pick it up, but definitely worth the trip! I didn't know that the foot rests we're an option, that's cool! The timing couldn't be any better since the driveway will be needing some work as the ground thaws.
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#11 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2015 - 05:54 AM

For your Nelson muffler try Sandy Lake Implements or Wells Implements. I think both stock the ones reproduced by 2 brothers and their cousin on Simple Tractors. They had a very good professional job done and I think they retail somewhere around $60....Dave

Can we get some pics of those mufflers?



#12 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2015 - 07:19 PM

Here's a pic of the repro mufflers Kenny, and they really look good. I found an NOS piston assembly for 25 bucks shipped, so the engine will get a new piston, too. I have to wait until the end of the week to get the engine back anyway, and the new valves will be here too. It looks like I'll be able to put the engine back together this weekend. We had to postpone picking up the grader blade today, but we're going to pick it up in the morning. I cleared the mouse nest from the 64 landlord today so it's back up and running. I'll mount up the grader blade so it will be ready for spring driveway repairs, and I'm really looking forward to it!

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#13 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2015 - 07:41 PM

I'm afraid to ask the price. And what size is the inlet pipe?



#14 Killer_A-C OFFLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2015 - 07:58 PM

1" pipe
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#15 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2015 - 08:05 PM

They sell for around 60 bucks.
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