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Bolens 1050 Repower With Honda GX390


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#46 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 06:31 PM

You can never have too many colors of wires laying around the shop.

 

Nice work, very clean install and great job with the pics. Very fun to follow along with.


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#47 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 06:39 PM

Thanks for the kind words - I hope when I am done the Honda will look almost as at home in the 1050 as the Wisconsin.



#48 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2015 - 08:37 PM

Set the battery in and did a test fit of the ground cable  - I use a small GM side post battery from Napa as I seem to get good life out of them for the money - the battery is a tight squeeze but it does fit.  Years ago someone added a push pull switch to deactivate the charging circuit - I assume it was to get a little more power out of the motor.  I decided to use it as a bypass switch - if the battery goes dead then the relay I am using to close the ignition circuit will not work so this switch can be used to close the ignition circuit and I should be able to pull start it with the recoil. I also used a few pieces of masking tape to temporarily hold the wires in place for when I tape them up if they pass the "magic smoke" test. Added a socket for the relay wires and got the grounds figured out - still have to hook up a positive cable.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Ground Cable Test Fit.jpg
  • 2 Ignition By Pass Switch.jpg
  • 3 Wiring Behind Air Cleaner.jpg
  • 4 Wiring Behind AIr Cleaner 2.jpg
  • 5 Wiring Behind Air Cleaner 3.jpg

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#49 richwoodrocket OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2015 - 09:20 AM

Wow!! I just ran across this thread now, and this is amazing. It looks super professional and factory grade.
That's a genius solution with the air filter mounted to the other side of the engine and a hose run across. I'm definitely subscribing to this thread to see the finished product.
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#50 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2015 - 08:02 PM

Thanks for the kind words.  Got the positive cable installed - had to solder on a new eye with 1/4" hole for the solenoid stud.  Installed a 10 amp fuse and tried the lights and found out I had the ammeter wired backwards so I switched the wires.  The relay I got appears to be open on the primary coil so I will have to try and get another one tomorrow - thought I had another one that was ok but I tried it and lost a little "magic smoke" and popped the 10 amp fuse - turns out it had a direct short across the relay coil.  Tried out the starter and it turns the engine over which is a good sign.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Battery Cable On Starter Solenoid.jpg
  • 2 Battery Cable On Starter 2 Solenoid.jpg
  • 3 Battery Cables Hooked Up.jpg
  • 4 Battery Cables Hooked Up.jpg
  • 5 10 Amp Fuse.jpg

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#51 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2015 - 08:00 PM

Got another relay, installed it and checked with an ohm meter and it closes the ignition circuit when powered.  Next I got the throttle cable installed and hooked up - since it was way too long I pulled the inner wire out of it, cut the outer cable with a hack saw, slid the wire back in , cut the wire and bent the end of the wire to hook onto the throttle lever.  Had to bend the throttle handle on the lever up a bit as it was hitting on the cable - could have cut it off but bending it fixed the problem and I can bend it back if I ever use the engine in another project. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 New Relay.jpg
  • 2 Throttle Cable Marked To Cut.jpg
  • 3 Cable Cut With Hack Saw.jpg
  • 4 Inner Core Being Fed Back Inside Cable.jpg
  • 5 Inner Core Back In.jpg
  • 6 Inner Core Back In 2.jpg
  • 7 Inner Core Cut And Bent.jpg
  • 8 Throttle Cable Installed.jpg
  • 9 Throttle Hitting On Cable.jpg
  • 10 Throttle Handle Bent.jpg
  • 11 Throttle Wide Open.jpg
  • 12 Throttle Wide Open Handle End.jpg
  • 13 Throttle Cable Routing Underneath.jpg
  • 14 Throttle Cable Routing At Dash.jpg

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#52 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2015 - 08:21 PM

Been thinking about how I was going to hook up the choke for a few weeks and come up with this solution.  Mounted a pivot bracket and lever arm with several holes drilled in it I made out of some scrap steel on the outer carb stud and did some experimenting to see how it would work and how much power it would take to move the choke arm on the Honda (drilled three holes in the Honda choke arm).  Used a short piece of the inner wire left over from the throttle cable to go to a pivot arm to change the movement direction from across to an up and down motion.  Then I welded a few pieces of metal onto the air filter hose adaptor to serve as a pivot, hold the choke lever onto the carb and serve as a mount for the choke cable.  I also found out when I welded the 1/4"NPT fitting into the air filter hose adaptor that I damaged some of the threads so I had to remove it and weld another fitting in - kept the heat down this time. While the choke cable I was using on the Wisconsin was not anymore than long enough it appears it will work with the Honda so I am going to reuse it.    

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Starting To Figure Out Choke Pivot.jpg
  • 2 Starting To FIgure Out Choke Pivot 2.jpg
  • 3 Choke Pivot After Some Experimenting.jpg
  • 4 New Fitting Welded In and Start Of Bracket to Hold Choke Lever In Place.jpg
  • 5 Pivot Bracket Welded In Place And Bracket Arm Tacked.jpg
  • 6 Pivot Bracket Welded In Place And Bracket Arm Tacked 2.jpg
  • 7 Bracket Arm Welded And Starting On Bracket to Hold Choke Cable.jpg
  • 8 Cable Bracket Marked To Be Bent.jpg
  • 9 Cable Bracket Bent.jpg
  • 10 Choke Cable Hooked Up 1.jpg
  • 11 Choke Cable Routing Underneath.jpg
  • 12 Choke Cable Hooked Up 2.jpg
  • 13 Carb Adaptor Painted Again.jpg
  • 14 Choke Pivot Plate Painted.jpg

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#53 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2015 - 07:49 PM

Made a gasket for the air filter out of cork, used electrical tape to seal off the breather vent on the back of the air filter housing and mounted the air filter.  Added a clamp for the ignition wires to keep them away from the air cleaner.  Decided for now I would go with 1-1/4" sump pump hose to connect the air filter to the carb adaptor.  I tried the 1-1/4" conduit and it is kinda stiff to work with so I will have to experiment with it and see if I can shape it by heating it up.  Got the breather vent plumbed in but it sits up a little higher than I would like so I may get a brass 90 degree fitting and see if I can get it a little lower as I plan to make a cover to go over the carb to keep snow off it in the winter time so it does not turn to ice and freeze the throttle and the choke cable.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Air Filter Gasket.jpg
  • 2 AIr Filter Gasket Installed.jpg
  • 3 Carb Hose Adaptor Installed.jpg
  • 4 Carb Hose Adaptor Installed 2.jpg
  • 5 AIr Filter Housing Breather Hose Nipple.jpg
  • 6 AIr Filter Housing Breather Hose Nipple Blocked Off.jpg
  • 7 AIr Filter Housing Base Installed.jpg
  • 8 AIr Filter Housing Base Installed 2.jpg
  • 9 AIr Filter Installed.jpg
  • 10 Clamp To Hold Wires Away From Air Filter.jpg
  • 11 Air Cleaner Top Installed.jpg
  • 12 Breather Hose Hooked Up.jpg
  • 13 Breather Hose Hooked Up 2.jpg
  • 14 Sump Pump Hose In Front Of Motor.jpg

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#54 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2015 - 07:41 PM

Got some different fittings and redid the breather connection - it now sits a bit lower which I like.  Cleaned the tools and excess parts off the foot rests and seat, put some gas in the fuel tank and cranked it over to see if it would run and verify that the charging system was wired up correctly - started right up and charged about 10 amps for a few seconds then dropped back to near zero as indicated in the picture - nothing got hot and no magic smoke lost so I turned it off after a few minutes and taped up and clamped the wires.  I ran a 10 gauge wire from the right rear mounting bolt on the motor to the battery cable ground point which also has a ground wire from the relay and the voltage regulator hooked to it. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Breather Fitting Lowered.jpg
  • 2 Breather Fitting Lowered.jpg
  • 4 Sump Pump Hose Across Front.jpg
  • 5 Sump Pump Hose On Air Filter Side.jpg
  • 6 It Charges.jpg
  • 7 Starting To Tape Wires Up.jpg
  • 8 Starting To Tape Wires Up 2.jpg
  • 9 Taping Wires Up 3.jpg
  • 10 Wires Taped And Clamped.jpg
  • 11 Wires Taped And Clamped.jpg
  • 12 Wires Taped And Clamped.jpg
  • 13 Gound Wire To Motor.jpg
  • 14 Grounds Hooked Together.jpg

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#55 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2015 - 05:29 PM

Decided I would hook up the tach / hour meter I had used on the Wisconsin - originally had decided to run the wires to the spark plug on top of the engine shield but rerouted them underneath part of it to protect them more.  Decided it was time to replace the foam tape around the dash that the hood sits on - picked up some new stuff last night, cleaned off the old tape using a razor blade to get rid of most of it and a bit of paint thinner to get rid of the gummy part, and ran two strips of the new tape, one beside the other, along the edge.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Tach Hourmeter.jpg
  • 2 Tach Wire First Hookup.jpg
  • 3 Tach Wire Rerouted.jpg
  • 4 Tach Wire Rerouted 2.jpg
  • 5 Tach Wire Through Battery Compartment.jpg
  • 6 Foam Tape Around Dash.jpg
  • 7 Foam Tape Around Dash 2.jpg
  • 8 Foam Tape Removed WIth Razor Blade.jpg
  • 9 Removing Tape Residue.jpg
  • 10 Cleaned Up For New Foam.jpg
  • 11 New Foam Tape.jpg
  • 12 New Foam Tape Installed First Strip.jpg
  • 13 New Foam Tape Second Strip.jpg
  • 14 Hood Closed.jpg
  • 15 Hood Closed 2.jpg
  • 16 Hood Closed 3.jpg

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#56 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 18, 2015 - 05:35 PM

Then I applied a short piece of heat shrink over each terminal that plugs onto the ignition switch to protect them from shorting and put a short piece of black door edge moulding over the lip of the engine shield on the right side to protect the wires from rubbing against the edge.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Terminals On Back Of Key Swich.jpg
  • 2 Bottom Terminal Heat Shrinked.jpg
  • 3 Heat Shrink On Terminal.jpg
  • 4 Terminal After Heat Gun.jpg
  • 5 All Terminals With Heat Shrink.jpg
  • 6 Piece Of Door Edge Moulding On Edge To Protect Wiring.jpg

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#57 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2015 - 06:24 PM

Been working with the piece of conduit to shape it to fit across the front of the tractor - used a heat gun to warm it up and then wired it in the shape I wanted it for a few days using the sump pump hose as a pattern.  Got it fitting pretty good but it was touching on the right side of the hood so I made up a bracket that bolts to the right side hood hinge bolt and used a hose clamp to draw the conduit back a little but so it clears.  Then I started working on a shield for the carburetor using some cardboard to make the pattern for the top of the shield as it will be a snug fit where it will work around the side of the hood. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Conduit Shaped With Wire.jpg
  • 1.5 Bracket To Hold Hose Back.jpg
  • 2 Conduit Left Side.jpg
  • 3 Conduit Right Side.jpg
  • 4 Conduit Touching Hood.jpg
  • 5 Bracket Bolted On.jpg
  • 6 Clamped to Clear Hood.jpg
  • 7 Left Side Hood Closed.jpg
  • 8 Bracket Painted And Conduit Clamped.jpg
  • 9 Bracket Painted And Conduit Clamped 2.jpg
  • 10 Cardboard Pattern To Make Shield.jpg
  • 11 Cardboard Pattern To Make Shield 2.jpg
  • 12 Cardboard Pattern 3.jpg
  • 13 Cardboard Pattern 4.jpg
  • 14 Figuring Out How Long To Make Side Of Shield.jpg
  • 15 Width Of Shield.jpg

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#58 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2015 - 11:36 AM

I love watching your work.  I really like the idea of shrink tubing at the ignition switch terminals. Those things always end up getting loose or shorting out like you said. I may steal your idea of the conduit bending for wires. I'm working on my snow cab for a new tractor project. I want all the wires contained  neatly within the cab. As usual, you are doing some great work on your project.


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#59 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2015 - 07:29 PM

Thanks for the kind words.  Worked away at the shield - used some 24 gauge body steel I had left over from another project.  Spot welded a 1/4" nut inside against the front hole to act as a spacer where it mounts against the throttle bracket - drilled the threads out of a nut with a 1/4" drill.  Added a bracket at the front of the shield to attach to the inner carb stud to give the shield a bit of support.  Bent the rear and inside lip up and bent the top so it is sloped to the outside and front so if ice, snow or rain lands on the shield it will flow towards the front or side and not drip onto the cylinder part of the motor (I hope).  Ground the welds down and gave it a final test fit.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Shield Marked Out and Cut.jpg
  • 2 Nut Welded Underneath To Act As Spacer.jpg
  • 3 Edges Bent And Test Fit.jpg
  • 4 Top Of Sheild With Hood Open.jpg
  • 5 Side Piece Welded On.jpg
  • 6 Side Piece Welded On Front View.jpg
  • 7 Side Piece Welded On Hood Closed.jpg
  • 8 Side Piece Welded On Hood Closed 2.jpg
  • 9 Side Piece Welded On Inside View.jpg
  • 10 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 11 Welds Ground 2.jpg
  • 12 Inside View With Tab For Carb Stud.jpg

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#60 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2015 - 07:53 PM

Gave the shield a paint job and after it dried bolted it on.  Found a piece of chrome door edge moulding I had lying around and put it along part of the edge of the hood in case it vibrated enough to rub against the shield and around the outer edge of the shield to get rid of the sharp edge.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Shield Painted.jpg
  • 2 Shield Painted.jpg
  • 3 Shield Painted.jpg
  • 4 Shield Bolted On.jpg
  • 5 Shield Bolted On 2.jpg
  • 6 Shield Hood Open.jpg
  • 7 Shield Engine Side View.jpg
  • 8 Sheild Rear View.jpg
  • 9 Door Edge Moulding Added.jpg
  • 10 Door Edge Moulding Added 2.jpg
  • 11 Door Edge Moulding 3.jpg
  • 12 Door Edge Moulding 4.jpg





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