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Bolens 1050 Repower With Honda GX390


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#31 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 21, 2015 - 03:08 PM

Looks like alot of hours spent!

 

How much $$ do you have in to the project now if you dont mind me asking

 

A lot of hours but to me they are "fun" hours.

 

The Honda was about $1300.00 and I estimate it will cost about another $100.00 for the steel, bolts, fittings, muffler, hose, etc. plus my time and a bit of welding and paint - some will argue that I am nuts to spend that kind of money but that's OK - I probably am.  The way I look at it the Bolens 1050 is a tough lawn tractor that I can use to cut the grass every week (which usually takes me about five hours, till the garden, run the wood chipper I built for it, serve in the winter time as a back up for snow removal with the snow caster I have and with the new Honda it should be trouble free for many years to come and will probably outlast me. Over the next ten years it will cost me $140.00 / year plus regular maintenance costs to cut the grass plus the other chores it does which is cheap in my opinion and I will have the entertainment value of doing the repower.


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#32 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted March 21, 2015 - 03:15 PM

Nothing wrong with spending money IMO especially on a Bolens!

Was just comparing cost of Wisconsin rebuild with cost of a ''repower" since so many people seem to be "Repowering" these days.


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#33 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 04:40 PM

Started making the bracket that will be used on the left side of the engine to hold the hood stop bracket and the air filter housing.  It will mount to the rear stud of the fuel tank and the two bolts that held the electrical box on.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Bracket To Mount To Gas Tank Stud.jpg
  • 2 Front Part Of Bracket.jpg
  • 3 Joining The Two Pieces.jpg
  • 4 Pieces Tack Welded.jpg
  • 5 Added The Upright Pieces.jpg
  • 6 Another View.jpg
  • 7 Rear View.jpg
  • 8 Bottom View.jpg
  • 9 Lower Piece Added.jpg
  • 10 Another View Of Lower Piece.jpg
  • 11 Test Fit Of Air Cleaner.jpg
  • 12 Air Cleaner Cover Removed.jpg
  • 13 Air Cleaner Bottom Removed.jpg
  • 14 Where To Drill Hole.jpg

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#34 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2015 - 07:34 PM

Started on the flange that the air cleaner will mount to - thought I would show the steps I used to take it from a piece of flat steel cut out with a hack saw to the finished flange.  First I roughed out the flange from 1/8" flat steel and ground the edges to the correct shape.  Next took a piece of cardboard and drew a pattern of the two bolt holes and the inside hole and taped it to the steel and using a centre punch marked the pattern through the cardboard into the steel.  After removing the cardboard I took a small drill bit and drilled holes for the two mounting bolts and around the inner hole marks - then drilled a few larger ones in the centre (not pretty but effective).  Once the larger holes were in the centre I inserted a hack saw blade through them and cut out the centre towards the smaller outer holes.  Next I used a round file to smooth  out the inner hole and enlarge it to the correct size and after a few test fits against the gasket and the air cleaner I had the finished flange.  Next I will tack two bolts to the flange, make a snout for the rear to put a hose on and figure out where to mount it on the bracket.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Flange Roughed Out.jpg
  • 2 Cardboard Taped To Flange And Marked With Centre Punch.jpg
  • 3 Cardboard Removed And Centre Punch Marks.jpg
  • 4 Small Holes Drilled Around Where Hole Goes.jpg
  • 5 Larger Holes Drilled In Centre.jpg
  • 6 Centre Cut Out With Hack Saw.jpg
  • 7 Test Fit Against Air Cleaner And Marking Where Material Needs To Be Removed.jpg
  • 8 Material To Be Removed Marked Out.jpg
  • 9 After A Bit Of Filing.jpg
  • 10 Back Side View.jpg
  • 11 Final Test Fit.jpg
  • 12 Test Fit Side View.jpg


#35 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2015 - 05:21 PM

Made a box to attach to the flange and make a ninety degree turn for the hose to go on to go across to the carb and then welded it together and welded a snout on it for the hose.  Did a few test fits as I went and then tacked it to the bracket.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Pieces Cut.jpg
  • 2 Pieces And Bolts Tacked To Flange.jpg
  • 3 Snout For Hose.jpg
  • 4 Pieces Welded To Flange.jpg
  • 5 Snout For Hose Partially Welded On.jpg
  • 6 Piece Cut To Fill In Void.jpg
  • 7 All Welded.jpg
  • 8 Welds Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 9 Test Fit On Bracket.jpg
  • 10 Tack Welded Onto Bracket.jpg
  • 11 Another Test Fit.jpg
  • 12 Another Test Fit 2.jpg

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#36 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2015 - 05:28 PM

Added a piece of 1" x 1/8" flat steel to the back of the bracket for strength against vibration and welded it on. I didn't like the angle of the snout for the hose so I cut it with a hack saw and changed the angle slightly and welded it back up.  Will have to make a gasket for where the air filter housing goes against the flange yet.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Reinforcing Piece For Back Of Bracket.jpg
  • 2 Snout Cut And Reangled.jpg
  • 3 Snout Rewelded.jpg
  • 4 Bottom View Of Reangled Snout.jpg
  • 5 Reangled Snout Top View.jpg
  • 6 Bracket Without Air Filter Housing.jpg
  • 7 Bracket Rear View.jpg
  • 8 Bracket Side View.jpg
  • 9 Bracket Top View.jpg

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#37 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2015 - 06:15 PM

Did some measuring and calculations to figure out the offset needed for my new hood stop.  Since I wanted to keep the original hood stop intact so I can reuse it if I want to put the Wisconsin back on some time in the future I made a new forward and rear link out of 1/8" x 1" flat steel.  I didn't have the tools necessary to shear the tab cleanly for the forward link that keeps it from going over centre so I cut a notch in the link and cut a tab and welded it to the link.  Then I bent the rear link and assembled the hood stop with a 5/16" bolt at the pivot point and did some test fits to make sure it would work OK.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Measuring OFfset.jpg
  • 2 Original Hood Stop.jpg
  • 3 Pieces Cut And Drilled To Make New Hood Stop.jpg
  • 4 Copied Hole Position And Angle To New Rear Piece.jpg
  • 5 Notch Cut To Weld Tab Into.jpg
  • 6 Original Tab In Front Piece.jpg
  • 7 New Tab Piece In Place To Be Welded.jpg
  • 8 New Tab Welded In.jpg
  • 9 Weld Ground Down.jpg
  • 10 Tab Bent Out.jpg
  • 11 Tab Bent 2.jpg
  • 12 Test Fit To Locate Hole.jpg
  • 13 Test Fit 2.jpg

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#38 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2015 - 06:22 PM

After I made sure everything was going to work OK I drilled a hole in the engine bracket and made a rivet from some round stock and a 5/16" washer welded to the other side for the hood stop pivot point.  I welded a small gusset at each of the bend points and then did another final test fit.  I took some measurements of the bend points on the rear link and pictures with the hood open and closed.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Length To First Bend.jpg
  • 2 Offset To Second Bend.jpg
  • 3 Second Bend To Engine.jpg
  • 4 Picture WIth Hood Closed.jpg
  • 5 Pivot Rivet Installed.jpg
  • 6 Pivot Rivet Other SIde and Bend Support Welded.jpg
  • 7 Distance Open Check.jpg
  • 8 Hood Open Right View.jpg
  • 9 Hood Closed.jpg
  • 10 Hood Closed 2.jpg
  • 11 Hood Open Left View.jpg
  • 12 Hood Open Side View.jpg

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#39 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2015 - 07:19 PM

Waiting on some warmer weather to finish up my hood stop and air cleaner bracket and throw some paint at them.  In the meantime I started working on the exhaust - got a piece of 1/2" flat steel roughed out and ground into shape using the gasket as a pattern and got a 1"npt pipe nipple that I will cut in two and weld to the flange.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Exhaust Flange Roughed Out.jpg
  • 2 Flange Ground And One Inch Pipe.jpg
  • 3 Flange Side View.jpg
  • 4 Gasket On top Of Flange.jpg

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#40 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2015 - 07:41 PM

Lots of fab work. Impressive.


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#41 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2015 - 08:11 PM

Thanks for the kind words - a lot of fab work but all in the effort that the tractor itself remains original and can be put back to the way it was if I choose to at some point in the future.  Got the stud holes and the centre hole drlled in the flange and a stub pipe made that will be welded to it.  Drilled the centre hole out to 7/8" in the drill press and found out I got it a bit off centre but was able to true it up and enlarge it so the stub pipe would fit inside in the lathe.  Next I will weld the stub pipe to the flange on the inside so the weld does not cause me problems where the nuts go on the studs as there is not a lot of clearance between the outside of the pipe and the studs.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Stud Holes And Start Of Centre Hole Drilled.jpg
  • 2 Centre Hole Out To .832 And Off Centre.jpg
  • 3 Centre Hole Enlarged And Trued Up For One Inch Pipe Stub.jpg
  • 4 Centre Hole Enlarged And Trued Up For One Inch Pipe Stub.jpg
  • 5 Stub Inside.jpg
  • 6 Stub Inside Other Side.jpg

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#42 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2015 - 03:33 PM

Got the pipe welded to the flange, weld faced and flange and pipe painted. I got some 3/8" hi strength threaded rod so I made two new studs for the front to hold down the engine where it mounts to the front axle support.  While I had the engine off to change the studs I modified the engine bracket by adding a drain trough for the oil to run in when it is oil change time - the trough will take the oil out past the frame so that it won't dribble on the frame tube (I hope).  Then I touched up the bracket where I added the trough and while I was in the painting mood I painted the belt pulley and also got the air filter bracket and the hood stop painted.  Found out I had to grind the pipe a bit for the nuts to clear where they go against the exhaust flange and mounted the flange to the engine.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Pipe Welded To Flange.jpg
  • 2 Weld Faced In Lathe.jpg
  • 3 Flange Painted.jpg
  • 4 Drain Trough Added To Engine Mount Plate.jpg
  • 5 Bracket Repainted.jpg
  • 6 Hi Strength Threaded Rod For Front Studs.jpg
  • 7 Drain Trough With Engine Mounted.jpg
  • 8 Drain Trough 2.jpg
  • 9 Pulley Painted.jpg
  • 10 Exhaust Flange Ground.jpg
  • 11 Exhaust Flange Ground 2.jpg
  • 12 Exhaust Flange Mounted.jpg

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#43 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2015 - 03:38 PM

Then I added a 90 degree elbow, a short nipple and a new muffler - it may not be as quiet as the muffler that came with the engine but it does look more original and does not take up as much room.  Got the painted up air filter bracket and hood stop bolted back on.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Elbow And Nipple Added.jpg
  • 2 Muffler Installed.jpg
  • 3 Muffler Installed 2.jpg
  • 4 AIr Filter Bracket Painted.jpg
  • 5 Hood Stop Painted And Botled To Hood.jpg
  • 6 Air Filter Bracket Installed.jpg
  • 7 Air Filter Bracket Installed 2.jpg
  • 8 Hood Stop Bolted To Bracket.jpg
  • 9 Hood Stop Bolted To Bracke 2t.jpg
  • 10 Bolt Holes Added To Bracket To Hold Wiring Clips.jpg
  • 11 Muffler With Hood Closed.jpg
  • 12 Muffler With Hood Closed.jpg

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#44 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2015 - 03:57 PM

Got the key in the crank and installed the belt pulley on the crankshaft.  Installed vibration nuts on the engine bolts, installed the belts, battery tray and thought about how to take up the 1/4" gap between the heat shield and the engine.  Decided to make a spacer out of two pieces of 1/8" x 1" flat steel tacked together - bent the ends of the piece next to the engine to keep it from sliding sideways and added a third piece at 90 degrees to hold it from dropping down while the bolts were installed.  Installed the heat shield and belt guard and decided rather than hack up the original wiring harness I will make a new one so I removed it as well as the throttle cable.  Someone at one time chopped the dash a bit to put a lever style throttle cable on it - I will have to make a new plate to mount a T handle style locking throttle cable I bought a couple of years ago for the tractor but never got around to installing it.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Pulley Mounted On Crankshaft.jpg
  • 2 Belts On Pulley.jpg
  • 3 Vibration Nuts On Engine Bolts.jpg
  • 4 Wiring Harness Removed.jpg
  • 5 Battery Tray Installed.jpg
  • 6 Gap Between Engine And Heat Shield.jpg
  • 7 Start Of Spacer.jpg
  • 8 Spacer Pieces Welded.jpg
  • 9 Spacer Pieces Welded 2.jpg
  • 10 Spacer Welded.jpg
  • 11 Spacer Set In Place.jpg
  • 12 Heat Shield Bolted In Place.jpg
  • 13 Belt Guard Bolted Up.jpg
  • 14 Key In Pulley.jpg

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#45 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2015 - 06:21 PM

Made a new plate for the dash to hold the locking throttle cable using the old one I made several years ago as a pattern.  Tack welded a piece of 1/8" flat steel on the back side where the hole is to level up the one side to match the dash piece that was still there.  Painted it and did a test fit of the new cable - will have to get some flat black paint and paint it to match the dash.  Then I did some thinking on where to mount the Honda voltage regulator and decided to mount it on the air cleaner bracket so I did a slight modification to it and added two bolt holes - should be out of the way and not near any other heat sources.  Next I roughed in the wiring for the lights, starter , ignition and charging system - still have to hook up the battery cables and a few grounds.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Old Dash Plate ANd New Piece Cut To Shape.jpg
  • 2 Hole In Dash.jpg
  • 3 Holes In New Piece.jpg
  • 4 Painted And Mounted Rear View.jpg
  • 5 Painted And Mounted Dash SIde.jpg
  • 6 Locking Cable Test Fit.jpg
  • 7 Light Wires Ran.jpg
  • 8 Bracket Modified To Mount Regulator.jpg
  • 9 Door Edge Moulding To Protect WIres.jpg
  • 10 Voltage Regulator Bolted On.jpg
  • 11 Regulator With Hood Closed.jpg
  • 12 Fuel Tank CLearance.jpg
  • 13 Harness For Regulator.jpg
  • 14 Wiring Roughed In.jpg
  • 15 Wiring Roughed In 2.jpg
  • 16 Wiring Roughed In 3.jpg
  • 17 Wiirng Roughed In 4.jpg
  • 18 Wiring Roughed In 5.jpg

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