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Bolens 1050 Repower With Honda GX390


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#16 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2015 - 06:17 PM

Too bad your in Canada or I'd gladly take that old clunker Wisconsin off your hands :D

 

You lucked out on that belt guard!


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#17 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2015 - 06:36 PM

I will probably pull the Wisconsin apart some time in the future and rebuild it as I get time and finances unless it has some major problems - as for the belt guard I knew it would fit before I bought the Honda (one of the reasons I chose it) and we all need a little luck once in a while.


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#18 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2015 - 11:44 PM

Great thread. Looking good so far.


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#19 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2015 - 06:59 PM

I am going to use the two rear bolts that mount the front axle to the frame tubes to secure the front of the motor as I have seen other people do when they use the clone motors - I will replace the bolts with studs made from threaded rod for now with the intention of using hi strength threaded rod when I permanently mount the engine.  Since I did not want to drill any new holes in the frame tubes I made an adaptor plate to mount the rear of the motor to using the existing holes for the Wisconsin - used 3/8"  grade 5 bolts with the heads shortened to 1/8" so they will be flush with the surface.  The adaptor plate is made out of 1/8" X 1-1/2" flat steel.  Once I mounted the motor on the front studs I found it was necessary to bore the pulley hub 3/8" deeper so it would fit over the step in the Honda crank and line up properly with the belts.  Then I marked out and drilled the two rear holes that will be used to attach the adaptor plate to the motor.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Motor Mount Cross  Piece Drilled To Match Rear Holes.jpg
  • 2 Motor Mount Side Pieces.jpg
  • 3 Motor Mount Pieces Welded And Modified Bolts.jpg
  • 4 Side View Of Motor Mount.jpg
  • 5 Bolt Heads Flush WIth Side Pieces.jpg
  • 6 Motor Mount Plate Test Fit.jpg
  • 7 Pulley Position Before Boring.jpg
  • 8 Pulley Bored.jpg
  • 9 Pulley Position After Boring For Crank Step.jpg
  • 10 Pulley Lined Up For Height.jpg
  • 11 Marking Out Motor Mount For Rear Bolts.jpg
  • 12 Motor Mount Drilled For Rear Bolts.jpg

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#20 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2015 - 07:54 PM

Welded on some stops to keep the rear bolt heads from turning as I won't be able to hold them with a wrench, ground the welds and gave the adaptor plate a quick paint job.  Forgot to round the corners so I gave them a touch with the grinder and added a bit more paint.  Put the thread rod studs in, added the rear bolts (3/8" grade 5 with shortened heads) and mounted the adaptor plate to the tractor. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Stops For Bolts Heads Welded On.jpg
  • 2 Welds Ground And Mount Painted.jpg
  • 3 Side View.jpg
  • 1 Threaded Rod For Front Motor Mount.jpg
  • 2 Corners On Mount Rounded.jpg
  • 3 Mount In Position.jpg
  • 4 Mount In Position 2.jpg

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#21 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2015 - 06:17 PM

Got the motor bolted on solid for the first time - so far so good - will make the threaded rod studs at the front about 1/2" longer when I get the hi strength rod.  With things tightened down things the pulley and belts appear to be very close to where they were on the Wisconsin.  If someone is thinking about this conversion the next steps may void the warranty as the air cleaner and exhaust get removed and modifications to make things fit under the hood begin (just a word of caution - you might want to run the engine for a while without the hood on to make sure everything is OK in case you have a problem).  Removed the air cleaner and exhaust and did a test closing the hood - will have to shorten or make shorter carb studs as the inner one will hit on the hood before it fully closes but everything else looks good - even think there will be room for the taller fuel cap with the hood fully closed - time will tell.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 5 Pulley Position WIth Motor Bolted Down.jpg
  • 6 Left Side Bolted.jpg
  • 7 Right SIde Bolted.jpg
  • 8 Air Filter Housing And Muffler Removed.jpg
  • 9 Air FIlter Hosuing Removed.jpg
  • 10 Muffler Removed.jpg
  • 11 Top View.jpg
  • 12 Hood Almost Closed 1.jpg
  • 13 Hood Almost Closed 2.jpg
  • 14 Hood Almost Closed 3.jpg
  • 15 Hood Almost Closed 4.jpg


#22 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2015 - 01:53 PM

Chose to make two shorter studs for the carb using 5/16" round steel stock - almost identical diameter to the 8MM larger end of the original studs.  Threaded the larger end with a die, machined the step down to 6MM in sections and threaded the small end.  Removed the carb, unthreaded the original studs, threaded the ones I made back in and put the carb back on.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Start Of Machining Step.jpg
  • 2 Machining Second Section Of Step.jpg
  • 3 Machining Last Section Of Step.jpg
  • 4 Step Machined.jpg
  • 5 Small End Threaded.jpg
  • 6 New Studs Beside Original.jpg
  • 7 Carb and One Original Stud Removed.jpg
  • 8 One Shorter Stud Installed.jpg
  • 9 Two Shorter Studs Installed.jpg
  • 10 Carb Back In Place.jpg

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#23 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2015 - 02:03 PM

I put a piece of 1/4" cardboard on top of the fuel cap and closed the hood and took some pictures -the hood closed ok with the cardboard in place so the fuel cap appears to have a bit of space under the hood for clearance.  The next step will be to remove the electrical box on the left side of the motor and fabricate some brackets to mount the air cleaner where the starter / generator was - I roughed out a piece of 1/8" flat steel that will bolt onto the carb studs and adapt to a hose to go across in front of the motor to connect with the air filter.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 11 Cardboard On Gas Cap To Check For Clearance.jpg
  • 12 Clearance At Carb Studs With Hood Shut.jpg
  • 13 Hood Shut Right SIde.jpg
  • 14 Hood Shut Right Side 2.jpg
  • 16 Hood Shut Left Side.jpg
  • 17 Hood Shut Left Side 2.jpg
  • 18 Recoil To Grilled Clearance.jpg
  • 19 Adaptor Plate Roughed Out.jpg
  • 19 Adaptor Plate Roughed Out 2.jpg

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#24 AA Hayes OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2015 - 06:09 AM

That is looking very nice! Good work so far.
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#25 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2015 - 07:10 PM

Got some holes in the carb adaptor plate and did a test fit against the carb - still will have to weld on a snout to attach a hose to and smooth up the finish a bit.  I also got a chance to unplug the wires and remove the electrical box and took a peak inside.  It appears that on this version there are two wires that go to the ignition coil that must be connected together to get spark and when disconnected there is no spark.  The earlier Honda only had one wire which killed the spark when grounded - probably a safety change to make it so it won't start if the ignition switch is disconnected or looses a ground connection.  Since the Honda switch has the wires attached right to it I think I will try and reuse the original key switch from the 1050, add a 12 volt relay and make up an new wiring harness to plug into the connectors on the motor - this way I won't hack up the original harness.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Carb Adaptor Plate.jpg
  • 2 Carb Adaptor Plate Side View.jpg
  • 3 Carb Adaptor Plate Against Carb.jpg
  • 4 Electrical Box WIring Unplugged.jpg
  • 5 Electrical Box Removed.jpg
  • 6 Electrical Box WIth Rear COver On.jpg
  • 7 Electrical Box With Cover Removed.jpg
  • 8 Back Of Key Switch.jpg
  • 9 Connectors To Regulator.jpg
  • 10 Connectors To Ignition Coil.jpg
  • 11 Connectors To Starter Solenoid.jpg


#26 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2015 - 10:53 PM

Man, you are flying right along.  Nice work on those carb bolts.

100 years from now, someone will being servicing that carb and wonder where in the h3ll they can find those bolts. Good job.


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#27 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 21, 2015 - 02:11 PM

Picked up a 1-1/4" hose joiner and used a short piece of exhaust pipe I had left over to make the snout.  They were both galvanized so I ground them as best I could and wore a mask while welding them.  Cut the one barbed end off the hose joiner and split the exhaust pipe and formed it around the hole in the adaptor plate.  Once I got it in a "U" I tack welded at and formed it around the pipe nipple by splitting it in several spots with a hack saw.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Hose Coupling 1.25.jpg
  • 2 Short Pieces Of Exhaust Pipe.jpg
  • 3 Exhaust Pipe Cut And Shaped.jpg
  • 4 Exhaust Pipe Tacked To Flange.jpg
  • 5 Hose Coupler Nipple Piece Tacked On.jpg
  • 6 Hose Coupler Nipple Piece Tacked On 2.jpg
  • 7 Exhaust Pipe Cut And Shaped Around Hose Nipple.jpg
  • 8 Exhaust Pipe Cut And Shaped Around Hose Nipple 2.jpg
  • 9 More Shaping.jpg
  • 10 More Shaping 2.jpg
  • 11 Another View.jpg

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#28 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted March 21, 2015 - 02:19 PM

Looks like alot of hours spent!

 

How much $$ do you have in to the project now if you dont mind me asking


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#29 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 21, 2015 - 02:21 PM

I picked up four feet of 1-1/4" non metallic conduit that I am going to use to go from the air cleaner to the carb - I tried it on the pipe nipple and it was very tight to get on so I ground the tack welds on the nipple and turned the outside down a little bit and left a rib a the one end that is a nice snug fit inside the conduit.  Then I tack welded the nipple back on, did another test fit on the engine and welded the nipple and the exhaust pipe to the flange and each other.  Then I ground the welds down and did another fit on the motor to see how it looked with the hood closed.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Non Metaliic Conduit.jpg
  • 2 Fitting Turned Down To FIt Conduit.jpg
  • 3 Fitting Tacked Back On.jpg
  • 4 Welding And Shaping.jpg
  • 5 Welded And Starting To Grind.jpg
  • 6 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 7 Welds Ground 2.jpg
  • 8 Test Fit On Motor.jpg
  • 9 Test Fit 2.jpg
  • 10 Hood Closed.jpg
  • 11 Hood Closed 2.jpg
  • 12 Bottom View.jpg

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#30 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 21, 2015 - 02:26 PM

Then I added a 1/4"NPT fitting that will be used for the vent hose from the valve cover and gave it a quick splash of paint. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Vent Hose From Valve Cover.jpg
  • 2 Hole For Fitting And Fitting.jpg
  • 3 Fitting In Place.jpg
  • 4 Fitting Welded In.jpg
  • 5 Painted.jpg
  • 6 Painted 2.jpg

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