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Need help installing voltmeter


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#1 CraftsmanGT OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2015 - 12:29 AM

I plan on putting a voltmeter on my GT6000 in place of the ammeter since it sorta fell apart. I know I need to hook the wires for the ammeter together and hook the + side of the voltmeter into the key switch for it to show voltage when the key is turned to "on" and when the tractor is running. I'm not good when it comes to electrical so I need to know where to hook it in on the key switch

Screenshot_2015-02-26-23-20-37.png

Edited by CraftsmanGT, February 27, 2015 - 12:34 AM.


#2 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2015 - 12:37 AM

The positive (+) side of the voltmeter gets connected to the "L" terminal of the key switch.

 

The negative (-) side of the voltmeter gets connected to a good, clean, ground connection.


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#3 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2015 - 12:52 AM

The positive (+) side of the voltmeter gets connected to the "L" terminal of the key switch.

The negative (-) side of the voltmeter gets connected to a good, clean, ground connection.

Will that read the battery voltage or just the voltage from the secondary (light) alternator?

Is there power at the M terminal when the key is on and not when off?

#4 CraftsmanGT OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2015 - 01:43 AM

I'd assume that their would be power to the "M" terminal with the key "on" since it's the kill wire for the coil and goes to the seat switch (which is bypassed)

#5 GWest OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2015 - 05:40 AM

There should never be power on the M terminal. That will release the magic smoke from the ignition coil.

 

The L terminal is the only one that has power controlled by the ignition switch. It also feeds the pto clutch.

 

Garry


Edited by GWest, February 27, 2015 - 05:43 AM.

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#6 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2015 - 06:33 AM

It took about 5 minutes looking at that diagram before I could figure it wasn't like anything I've worked on .  Now I can see why it's easy to ruin one of those type ignition !!!  I'm going to save that picture for a reminder if I ever get one like that , Al   



#7 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2015 - 10:30 AM

It took about 5 minutes looking at that diagram before I could figure it wasn't like anything I've worked on .  Now I can see why it's easy to ruin one of those type ignition !!!  I'm going to save that picture for a reminder if I ever get one like that , Al   

The key to the answer was not just in the wiring diagram.

 

In the lower left corner of that sheet, is a diagram of the internal switch connections.

 

Just above that is a box showing the switch connections:  "OFF" connects the "M"agneto terminal to "G"round ......"ON" connects the "B"attery voltage to the "L" terminal.   ......"START" connects the  "B"attery voltage to the "S" terminal, which supplies power to the start circuit.


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#8 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2015 - 11:11 AM

I would think it might be easier to install another ammeter than to try to rewire or make something else work.
The Voltmeter will only be telling you what the second half of the alternator is putting out, not what the charge is on your battery.
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#9 CraftsmanGT OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2015 - 12:37 PM

I would perfer a voltmeter, but yeah a new ammeter would be easier



#10 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2015 - 12:39 PM

I would think it might be easier to install another ammeter than to try to rewire or make something else work.
The Voltmeter will only be telling you what the second half of the alternator is putting out, not what the charge is on your battery.

I would also replace it with another Ammeter.  It will give a true representation of the charging system's output better than just showing the battery's voltage.  I know a voltage check does give an indication if or not the system is working but what you don't really know is 'how well' it is.  The ammeter removes all doubt as it measures the power output.  (amps)

 

Hook it in as described above.  Hook both wires from the ammeter together on the (+) side of the volt meter and install a Ground wire and it will work perfectly.  No other rewiring is needed except the (-) side needs a wire to ground.  Simple..

 

To me that wiring diagram makes perfect sense.  But I've been reading the dang things for years..  Positive to Negative flow for all DC circuits.  (one way)

 

AC is two ways  (Alternating)  AC is generated with your Stator as the magnets pass and the diode / rectifier / regulator drops the negative side so you have 'broken or one side of the AC's' current..  

 

Keep studying that diagram and fire back with any questions


Edited by WNYTractorTinkerer, February 27, 2015 - 12:40 PM.

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#11 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2015 - 12:40 PM

The positive (+) side of the voltmeter gets connected to the "L" terminal of the key switch.

 

The negative (-) side of the voltmeter gets connected to a good, clean, ground connection.

 

:iagree:  :ditto:



#12 3v0 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2015 - 12:45 PM

A good answer has already been posted.  But this does not have to be rocket science.  Find any wire that provides power only with the switch on.   Then disconnect the battery and check for conductivity between  that point and the positive battery cable.

 

It is nice to have both ;)



#13 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2015 - 01:46 PM

The key to the answer was not just in the wiring diagram.

 

In the lower left corner of that sheet, is a diagram of the internal switch connections.

 

Just above that is a box showing the switch connections:  "OFF" connects the "M"agneto terminal to "G"round ......"ON" connects the "B"attery voltage to the "L" terminal.   ......"START" connects the  "B"attery voltage to the "S" terminal, which supplies power to the start circuit.

You also need to take both the wires on the Ammeter and hook them together or all bets are off and it won't charge.  The charging current flows through the ammeter..  If the ammeter is gone the charging voltage has nowere to go unless the wires are connected together.  Right?


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#14 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2015 - 02:14 PM

You got that right, Dave!


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#15 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2015 - 03:18 PM

You also need to take both the wires on the Ammeter and hook them together or all bets are off and it won't charge.  The charging current flows through the ammeter..  If the ammeter is gone the charging voltage has nowere to go unless the wires are connected together.  Right?

 

You are correct, but if you read the original posting, he knew that he had to connect the ammeter wires together.






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