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problems with bolens tra-10d


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#16 brettm85 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2015 - 05:42 PM

Well carb cleaner in the spark plug hole don't make a difference? Still just turns over n will start to fire sometimes(not right away) then dies right out?

Points are set at .20
Got spark, got new spark plug, got gas coming through the carb..... What's the next route? Could something be wrong electronically?

Thanks for all help and suggestions.

#17 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2015 - 05:44 PM

Well carb cleaner in the spark plug hole don't make a difference? Still just turns over n will start to fire sometimes(not right away) then dies right out?

Points are set at .20
Got spark, got new spark plug, got gas coming through the carb..... What's the next route? Could something be wrong electronically?

Thanks for all help and suggestions.

 

How long does it run with the carb cleaner, you should get a few seconds of the engine running good on the carb cleaner. If it runs then dies its a fuel issue, if it just sputters and dosent run you got other issues than fuel , most likely electrical.



#18 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2015 - 05:53 PM

Does it only start to run while the key is in the "START" position, but dies when you release the key to the "RUN" position?  .....If so, the key switch may be bad.

 

I think your tractor has the battery ignition with a "round can" coil (automotive style) and does not have magneto ignition.  ....Is this correct?


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#19 brettm85 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2015 - 11:02 AM

Yes that's correct it has the "can coil" and yes usually it only fires while turning it over.

And carb cleaner in the plug hole didn't make it start right up, so it has to be electrical.

#20 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2015 - 04:25 PM

TEMPORARILY connect a wire to the positive (+) terminal of the coil. 

 

While cranking the engine, hold the other end of that wire to the positive (+) terminal of the battery. 

 

If the engine starts, and continues to run after releasing the key to the "run" position, the problem is in the key switch or wiring. 

 

Do not leave the coil connected to the battery if the engine is not starting/running.

 

Try this and report back for more help.


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#21 brettm85 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2015 - 07:09 PM

That caused it to immediately smoke/melt the original wire on the positive side of coil. So I did not continue to turn it over

#22 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2015 - 12:15 AM

That caused it to immediately smoke/melt the original wire on the positive side of coil. So I did not continue to turn it over

 

Well, that certainly should not have happened, so it appears there is a fault in the wiring, causing the battery voltage to go to ground through the original wire that melted.


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#23 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2015 - 08:38 PM

That caused it to immediately smoke/melt the original wire on the positive side of coil. So I did not continue to turn it over

Sounds like you have a switch designed for magneto operation instead of batt and coil. The switch for the magneto grounds the wire when off and has an M on the back of the switch. The switch for batt and coil ignition has an I on the back of the switch and puts power to the coil when turned on and leaves the wire open when the switch is off.


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#24 brettm85 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2015 - 02:37 PM

It is the same switch and wiring that has been on it, and it worked fine for quite some time, but I'll look at back of switch when I get home.

Thanks

#25 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2015 - 04:28 PM

Like Bruce said, something had to be shorted to ground to melt that wire. Maybe the switch has shorted itself out internal or you have another issue with the wiring. Take the melted wire off the coil and hook a test ight between it and battery positive and see if it lights. Then see what it takes to turn the light off. You could do the same with an ohm meter between the wire and ground.






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