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Re-Doing a '63 Bolens 800


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#106 Bolens800uk OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2015 - 11:28 AM

Fantastic workmanship on those covers.
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#107 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2015 - 09:33 AM

I haven't had much time to work on my 800 and things have slowed.  Have thought about selling it but changed my mind, just couldn't do it.

 

I did learn the hard way that grease or gasket sealant is needed (or is a good idea) on the bottom transmission plate gasket.  When I serviced it a few months back, I just put the gasket in dry and bolted everything back up.  About a month later, I had a slow drip out the left side.  Tried snugging up the bolts even more, but it did no good and I ended up snapping/breaking one of the split washers on one of the bolts.  I ended up draining the oil and replacing the gasket with another new one, this time adding some gasket sealant on both sides of the gasket before bolting the bottom plate back in.  Now it's all good.  I used Permatex gasket sealant instead of plain grease, but upon inspection, the Permatex is the same consistency of axel grease, not a slippery though.

The tractor is running, but still only with the choke on.  I have to get it sorted so I can enjoy it.



#108 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2015 - 11:12 PM

I pulled the rebuilt carb off, went through it with the old manual next to me and adjusted the float.  Put it all back together, she fired right up and I am in business.  Took a cruise from back to front, down the street a bit and then back to the shed.  She ran good.

My neighbor came out and told me I needed to put a muffler on it.  It has a muffler on it, that's the best part.

I'll be pulling the rims and tires off next to start stripping them and mounting some new tires.



#109 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2015 - 01:23 PM

Took the 800 out for a spin today and noticed I could not get it into gear at dead stop without grinding the gears.  If I disengaged the ider pulley for the speed selector, I could get it in gear. But then, I would have to let the clutch out, then engage the drive belt to get going without any grinding.  I parked it and crawled underneath to look at the clutch.  Not really sure what it is supposed to look like, but here is a picture of the clutch with the clutch/brake pedal pressed. There is a free spinning disk sandwiched in between the front and rear clutch plates.  Is it supposed to be like that or did my clutch pad(s) come loose?

If I do need a new clutch, can someone point me in the right direction for any instructions on the process? Thanks again.

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_20150610_105957663.jpg


#110 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2015 - 05:15 PM

Clutch disc has separated from the pulley, it should not affect the stoppage of the clutch though , Does your 800 have the brake drum just below the shift lever?

 

The early ones did not have a drum and were known for this problem.


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#111 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2015 - 07:05 PM

No, no brake drum. It just has the small pad that contacts the drive drum bushing to the rear.

 

I guess I will just do the routine I've been doing then? (Drive pulley/belt disengaged, clutch in, shift, clutch out, engage belt). It's the only way it doesn't grind.

 

How big of a job is the clutch disc repair?? Instructions easy to find or the parts??


Edited by rumbleseat, June 10, 2015 - 07:06 PM.


#112 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2015 - 03:39 PM

Well, I haven't been in here in some time as my progress has ground to a halt.  The engine is running good but the clutch is now the problem. It think I have to buy new discs and re-do the clutch. It slows the tractor down when clutch/brake is pushed in but does not stop the drive.  Not sure exactly what parts I need to fix it other than the clutch disks. I guess I'll find out when I get around to diving into it. :wtf:



#113 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2015 - 04:05 PM

Most of your issues will be resolved adding a brake drum to the rear , I just did that on my Bolens 900 so I was able to use it again , most parts can still be had for them, only thing I had to fab was weld a single tab on the brake lever arm to attach the brake drum linkage

 

http://gardentractor...0-back-to-life/


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#114 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2015 - 05:12 PM

I just realized reading this that I'm the one that bought those throttle and choke lever covers on eBay that you fabricated, saving them for the restore project coming up. They're nice!

Good luck with your 800 project
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#115 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted January 04, 2019 - 11:19 AM

I am still slowly poking at her and getting things done.

The original tires finally disentagrated and I bought some Firestones front and rear.

Replaced the clutch yoke brakets that were worn and the little stop pad. Next are clutch discs I guess.  She won't go into gear and grinds once the clutch is pushed. I thought the worn out yokes may help but they didn't.

 

IMG-20190102-115000612.jpg
IMG-20190102-164522168.jpg
IMG-20190102-164527973.jpg


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#116 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted January 04, 2019 - 11:23 AM

Some mis-matched hubcaps too.

 

 

 

IMG-20180815-190431617.jpg


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#117 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 04, 2019 - 07:33 PM

Does this have the brake drum on it?

(another pad assembly right below the shifter area on driveshaft)

 

if no thats your problem , the early units left without any and after obvious problem Bolens corrected them, several former dealers mentioned a service kit being put out but we have never found any paperwork.


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#118 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2019 - 08:32 AM

If you check out the parts list in the manuals section for the Bolens 900 model it will give you an idea of what the components that make up the second brake that stops the driveshaft from turning when the clutch pedal is pushed down. 

https://gardentracto...330-bolens-900/

 

I have attached a picture of the areas- while it would take a bit of work similar components could probably be made.  The brake drum could be made out of a 1/16" piece of flat steel with two holes to bolt to the bonded coupling bolts with a steel band welded to it around the outer edge to form a cup shaped drum. I would think there should be enough movement backwards of the keyed collar that attaches to the transmission input shaft to accept the extra width the drum would create.  The bracket and arm could be made out of some 1/8" flat steel. I believe Bolens 1000  offers the arm with the lining for sale on his website.

https://bolenspartsa...13751-171-3751/

 

Just suggestions that may be an option to consider.

 

There is a service bulletin regarding the problem which gives a sales number for the kit which is in the service bulletins loaded on the site - check out service bulletin # 102.  Unfortunately the bulletin does not list what parts were included in the kit.

 

https://gardentracto...-bulletin-102/ 

   

If you had a way of bringing the tractor to a full stop with the clutch pedal pressed down and could look underneath to see if the driveshaft was still turning it would help to verify that it is the problem. 

 

Hope this helps

Attached Thumbnails

  • Bolens 900 Driveshaft Brake Components.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, January 05, 2019 - 08:34 AM.

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#119 rumbleseat OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2019 - 11:30 PM

Thanks for the info.  I am going to make that a future project.






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